• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.281-289
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• 1994

An equation set of nonlinear model for regular/irregular waves presented in this study can be applied to waves travelling from deep water to shallow water, which is different from the Boussinesq equations. The presented equations completely satisfy the linear dispersion relationship and when expanded, they are proven to be consistent with the Boussinesq equation of several types. In addition, the position of averaged velocity below the still water level is estimated based on the linear wave theory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 2024

In this study, the program was modified by adding the empirical formula of EurOtop (2018) to enable calculation of wave overtopping on armoured slope structures in the FUNWAVE-TVD model using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation. The validity of the modified numerical model was verified by comparing it with CLASH data and experiment data for the rubble mound structure. This model accurately reproduced the change in wave overtopping rate according to the difference in the roughness factor of the armoured block, and well reproduced the rate of decrease in wave overtopping rate due to the increase in relative freeboard. The overtopping rate of the armoured slope structures showed significant differences depending on the positioning condition of the armoured blocks. When Tetrapods were placed with regular positioning, the overtopping rate increased significantly compared to when they were placed with random positioning, and it was consistent with when they were placed with Rocks. Meanwhile, when rocks were placed in one row, the wave overtopping rate was greater than when rocks were placed in two rows, which is believed to be due to the influence of the roughness and permeability of the structure's surface.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.418-428
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• 2007

In the calculation of wave propagation by Boussinesq equation model, it is very common to experience numerical noises generated from nonlinear interaction and breaking wave occurrence, and the numerical solution is rapidly diverged unless the noises are properly controlled. A comparative study was here undertaken for the characteristics of three different lowpass filters (FFT filter, Gaussian filter and Shapiro filter) which are all designed to be applied to the interim results of numerical calculation. The numerical results obtained with application of respective filter techniques were compared with the results of an existing hydraulic experiment for the aspects of noise suppression, conservation of main signal and altering time. The results show that the Shapiro filter can be best applied with optimal choices of its element number, pass number and filtering tune interval. The combination of the number of filter element off, pass number of 50 or less, and application interval of 100 to 200 time steps generally showed good performance in both accuracy and efficiency of the numerical calculation.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.117-128
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• 2016

A theoretical study of Boussinesq equations (BEs) for internal waves propagating in a two-fluid system is presented in this paper. The two-fluid system is assumed to be bounded by two rigid plates. A set of three equations is firstly derived which has three main unknowns, the interfacial displacement and two velocity potentials at arbitrary elevations for upper and lower fluids, respectively. The determination of the optimal BEs requires a solution of depth parameters which can be uniquely solved by applying the $Pad{\acute{e}}$ approximation to dispersion relation. Some wave properties predicted by the optimal BEs are examined. The optimal model not only increases the applicable range of traditional BEs but also provides a novel aspect of internal wave studies.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.31 no.7
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• pp.579-587
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• 2007

Samchunpo(Sin Hyang) Harbor is located in the bay of Sa Chun, the central south coast of Korean peninsula. The harbor and coastal boundaries have been protecting by natural coastal islands and shoals. Currently, The Sin Hyang harbor needs maintenance and renovation of the sheltered structures against the weather deterioration and typhoon damages. Consequently to support this, the calculation of accurate design wave through the typhoon wave attack is necessary. In this study, calculation of incident wave condition is simulated using steady state spectrum energy wave model(wide area wave model) from 50 years return wave condition. And this simulation results in wide offshore area were used for the input of the extended mild slope wave model at the narrow coastal area. Finally, the calculation of design wave at Sin Hyang harbor entrance was induced by Boussinesq wave model(detail area wave model) simulation. The numerical model system was able to simulate wave transformations from generation scale to shoreline or harbor impact. We hope these results will be helpful to the engineers doing placement, design, orientation, and evaluation of a wide range of potential solutions in this area.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.257-264
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• 2021

This study established a numerical model capable of calculating the wave overtopping rate of coastal structures by nonlinear irregular waves using the FUNWAVE-TVD model, a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. Here, a numerical model was established by coding the mean value approach equations of EurOtop (2018) and empirical formula by Goda (2009), and adding them as subroutines of the FUNWAVE-TVD model. The verification of the model was performed by numerically calculating the wave overtopping rate of nonlinear irregular waves on vertical wall structures and comparing them with the experimental results presented in EurOtop (2018). As a result of the verification, the numerical calculation result according to the EurOtop equation of this model was very well matched with the experimental result in all relative freeboard (R_c/H_mo) range under non-impulsive wave conditions, and the numerical calculation result of empirical formula was evaluated slightly smaller than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo < 0.8 and slightly larger than the experimental result in R_c/H_mo > 0.8. The results of this model were well represented in both the exponential curve and the power curve under impulsive wave conditions. Therefore, it was confirmed that this numerical model can simulate the wave overtopping rate caused by nonlinear irregular waves in an vertical wall structure.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.468-468
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• 2016

3차원 동수역학 모델을 이용하여 연안 순환에서 발생하는 이안류의 연직 분포를 조사하였다. 이안류 흐름은 변수심 위에서 발생하는 파의 쇄파와 모멘텀 전달에 의해 발생하는 외해방향의 흐름을 의미하는 것으로 해안의 보전, 유지 및 개발 측면에서 매우 중요한 역할을 한다. 지난 수십년동안 이안류와 관련된 현상을 해석하기 위해 많은 연구들이 수행되어 왔다. 하지만 대부분의 연구들은 수심적분된 2차원 모델을 사용하거나 위상 평균된 3차원 모델을 사용하여 이안류 흐름이 발생할 시 유속의 3차원 분포나 각 종 물리량의 시간적인 변화 등을 모의하기 어려웠다. 본 연구에서는 3차원 동수역학 모델 NHWAVE (Non-Hydrostatic WAVE model)을 이용하여 이안류의 연직분포를 조사하였다. 이안류를 발생시키기 위하여 이상적인 이안류 지형을 만들었으며 여러 지점에서 연직분포를 측정하여 수심적분된 Boussinesq 모델과 비교하여 특성을 파악하였다. 수치모의 수행결과, 두 모델 모두 이안류 현상을 잘 재현하였으나 Boussinesq 모델은 수평유속의 연직방향 변화를 잘 재현하지는 못하였다. 또한, 파고가 상대적으로 큰 경우에는 3차원 모델에서는 작은 순환류가 외해 영역에서 발생하였으나 Boussinesq 모델에서는 관측하지 못하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.350-356
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• 1993

We carry out a numerical calculation to understand the nonlinear wave deformation around breakwaters using the Boussinesq equation, which is weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive shallow water equation. A numerical method based on a finite element scheme and fourth order Runge-Kutta algorithm is employed to investigate the diffraction of incident waves by the breakwater. As a computational model, two-dimensional wave flume is treated. The breakwaters is perpendicular to the side wall of a channel. From the numerical results, the wave deformations according to the change of the length and the thickness of breakwaters are investigated. We also investigate the effect of the nonlinearity by comparing the results with the linear solutions.