• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.446-456
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• 2007

Numerical analyses of stem waves, the interaction between incident and reflected waves of obliquely incident regular waves along a vertical wall in a constant water depth, are presented. For the numerical model of the analysis, the two-layer Boussinesq equations developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a,b) are employed. Numerical results are compared with both laboratory measurements and those obtained using parabolic approximation model. The overall comparisons between the results from the two numerical models and the experiments are good. However, the two-layer Boussinesq model is more accurate than the parabolic approximation model as the angle of incident waves increases. In particular, the higher harmonic generation due to the wave nonlinearity is captured only in the Boussinesq model.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 한국수자원학회 2006년도 학술발표회 논문집
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• pp.1931-1934
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• 2006

The accuracy impact of using high-order Boussinesq-type model as compared to the typical order model is examined in this paper. The multi-layer model developed by Lynett and Liu(2004a) is used for simulating of wave breaking over a step region. The overall comparisons between the two-layer model and the hydraulic experiments are quite good. The one-layer model overshoals the wave near the breakpoint, while the two-layer model shoals at a rate more consistent with the experimental data.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.29-33
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• 2005

The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and design of coastal structures. Numerical experiments are conducted to identify the shoaling and breaking characteristics of a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation-based model. Simulated shoaling showed good agreement with the Shouto's formula, and the results of the breaking experiment agreed well with experimented data, over several beach profile.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.9-31
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• 2007

Most seismic sea waves in the East Sea originate from earthquakes occurring near the Japanese west coast. While the waves propagate in the East Sea, they are deformed by refraction, diffraction and scattering. Though the Boussinesq equation is most applicable for such wave phenomena, it was not used in numerical modelling of seismic sea waves in the East Sea. To examine characteristics of seismic sea waves in the East Sea, numerical models based on the Boussinesq equation are established and used to simulate recent tsunamis. By considering Ursell parameter and Kajiura parameter, it is proved that Boussinesq equation is a proper equation for seismic sea waves in the East Sea. Two models based on the Boussinesq equation and linear wave equation are executed with the same initial conditions and grid size ($1min{\times}1min$), and the results are compared in various respects. The Boussinesq equation model produced better results than the linear model in respect to wave propagation and concentration of wave energy. It is also certified that the Boussinesq equation model can be used for operational purpose if it is optimized. Another Boussinesq equation model whose grid size is $40sec{\times}30sec$ is set up to simulate the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis. As the result of simulation, new propagation charts of 2 seismic sea waves focused on the Korean east coast are proposed. Even though the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis started at different areas, the propagation paths near the Korean east coast are similar and they can be distinguished into 4 paths. Among these, total energy and propagating time of the waves passing over North Korea Plateau(NKP) and South Korea Plateau(SKP) determine wave height at the Korean east coast. In case of the 1993 tsunami, the wave passing over NKP has more energy than the wave over SKP. In case of the 1983 tsunami, the huge energy of the wave passing over SKP brought about great maximum wave heights at Mukho and Imwon. The Boussinesq equation model established in this study is more useful for simulation of seismic sea waves near the Korean east coast than it is the Japanese coast. To improve understanding of seismic sea waves in shallow water, a coastal area model based on the Boussinesq equation is also required.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.185-193
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• 2010

In the present study, wave deformation and wave-induced current were calculated under the regular wave conditions using the Boussinesq model. The model results of the wave deformation showed good agreements with the preceeding laboratory experiments of others. The wave-induced current of the fully developed sea state was calculated. For field application of model, the preceeding field data by others in the real scale of the water area were compared, the numerical result of wave deformation showed a relatively good agreement with the field data. Although the numerical result of wave-induced current was underestimated over the longshore bar developed area, the Boussinesq model is generally suitable to predict the wave-induced current.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.121-127
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• 2008

Numerical experiments with weakly nonlinear MIKE21 BW module and fully nonlinear FUNWAVE model are performed to identify the nonlinear characteristics of Boussinesq models with varying nonlinearity. Generation of waves with varying amplitudes, nonlinear shoaling and wave propagation over submerged bar experiments showed the importance of nonlinear model in shallow water where nonlinearity becomes prominent. Fully nonlinear model showed the nonsymmetrical wave form more clearly and gave larger shoaling coefficients than those of weakly nonlinear model.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.133-141
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• 2007

A finite element model is developed for the extended Boussinesq equations that is capable of simulating the dynamics of long and short waves. Galerkin weighted residual method and the introduction of auxiliary variables for 3rd spatial derivative terms in the governing equations are used for the model development. The Adams-Bashforth-Moulton Predictor Corrector scheme is used as a time integration scheme for the extended Boussinesq finite element model so that the truncation error would not produce any non-physical dispersion or dissipation. This developed model is applied to the problems of solitary wave propagation. Predicted results is compared to available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. A good agreement is observed.

• Journal of the Korean Geotechnical Society
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• 제20권9호
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• pp.5-15
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• 2004

It is worthwhile to verify the vertical stress distribution in soil mass for rigorous design of foundation. A series of laboratory model tests were performed to investigate the Boussinesq's theory on vertical stress increment in sandy soil mass caused by surface loading. The test results were also compared with Boussinesq's theoretical values. The Boussinesq's theoretical values were always smaller than test results under the footing regardless of depth. Outside of the footing the values were larger than the measured stress at the depth of just footing width. The theory and the test showed similar results when the depth reached two and three times the footing width. The vertical stress decreased as the applied load increased. These trends were confirmed to be valid for the considered range of the relative density of sand and/or the width of footing. More accurate values can be acquired by correcting the theoretical values using these results when Boussinesq's theory is used.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국방재학회 2011년도 정기 학술발표대회
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• pp.57-57
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• 2011

지진해일은 진행속도가 빠르고 파장이 길며 파형의 변화 없이 먼 거리를 진행 할 수 있어 주변지역은 물론 멀리 떨어진 지역에도 심한 범람피해를 야기시킨다. 지진해일의 일반적인 특징으로 장파와 단파가 합성되어 있고 먼 거리를 전파할 경우 분산효과의 역할이 중요하게 된다. 특히 우리나라의 동해안에 영향을 주는 지진해일은 단주기파 성분이 강하고 파장에 비해 먼 거리를 전파하기에 분산을 고려하는 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하는 것이 바람직하다. 하지만 지금까지의 지진해일 전파모의를 위한 모형은 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 복잡한 계산과 계산시간이 길다는 단점 때문에 선형 천수방정식을 지배방정식으로 사용하고 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려해왔다. 지진해일 해석 시 일반적으로 사용되어 오던 기존의 leap-frog 유한차분 모형(Imamura et al., 1988; 조용식, 1996)은 지배방정식으로 선형 천수방정식을 사용하고 파의 분산효과는 수치분산을 이용하여 고려하므로 정해진 시간 간격에 대해 수심에 따라 격자 간격을 적절히 선택해야 하는데 수심이 복잡하게 변하는 경우 격자간격 조정이 불가능하여 분산효과를 정도 높게 고려할 수 없다. 이 문제점을 해결하기 위하여 윤성범 등(2004)은 파동방정식의 인위적인 분산항을 이용하여 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산효과를 고려할 수 있는 능동적인 분산보정기법을 제안하였고 Cho et al.(2007)는 일정한 수심에서 수치적인 분산오차가 Boussinesq 방정식의 물리적인 분산항을 대체하도록 수심, 격자 간격 및 계산 시간 간격 사이의 관계식을 유도하고 Boussinesq 방정식의 분산항과 일치하는 수치분산을 이용하여 실용적인 분산보정기법을 개발하였다. 이에 Ahn(2010)은 현재 컴퓨터의 계산 능력이 향상되어 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분하여 계산하는데 무리가 없다고 판단하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식을 직접 차분한 모형을 개발하였다. 본 연구에서는 기존의 원해 지진해일 전파모의에 이용되어왔던 선형 천수방정식에 수치분산을 고려한 모형 대신 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였으며 기존의 선형 Boussinesq 방정식 모형의 격자와 수심간의 제약을 없애기 위해 차분 기법을 달리 한 2차 정확도의 유한차분 모형을 제안하였다. 검증을 위하여 선형 Boussinesq 방정식의 해석해(Carrier, 1991)와 비교하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.47-57
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• 2010

Subgrid scale stabilization method is applied to Woo and Liu(2004)'s extended Boussinesq FEM numerical model to eliminate the 2dx wiggles. In order to optimize the computational efficiency, Hessian operator is introduced and the matrix of velocity vector is combined to one matrix for solving matrix equations. The mass lumping technique is also applied to the matrix equations of auxiliary variables. The newly developed code is applied to simulate Vincent and Briggs(1989)' wave transformation experiments and the results show that the numerical solution is almost wiggle-free and it matches very well with experimental data. Due to improvement of computational efficiency and wiggle reduction, it is plausible to apply this model to a realistic problem such as harbor oscillation problems.