• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.101-112
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• 2005

21th is the century of culture. So each country create new culture from tradition, and at the hub, there is Rapid development of network which makes these things to be able. Also, Korea selected Han-Bok as a symbol of Korea culture, and also Han-Bok internationally. Han-Bok expresses our nation's emotion very well, and also, Han-Bok has universality that can stimulate on world's sensitivity. Consequently, this study will arrange and analyze the records of foreigners' feeling who visited in the period of the opening of a port as a target of our study. This study will offer materials for study in the period of the opening of a port. Also, this study will discover the significance and organization of our clothes. Way to wear it and the beauty of our clothes that we didn't even realize or not mentioned on the record because we were too accustomed to our beauty from the ancient time. So, we would like to be basic study that can make our clothes globally and appeal to world's sensitivity by finding the universality. The result of this study is as follows. First, the items of hat made us be called as a 'world of hat' so, Gat, Galmo(갈모), a women's winter hat(조바위), a fur-lined hood(남바위) and Ayam(아얌) will be obtained the world's focus. Secondly, we checked Belt, breast-tie, rainbow striped sleeves and Pocket which append vitality and movement arrested the foreigners' attention. Thirdly, foreigner's were interested with straw shoes and paper shoes.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.435-447
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• 2016

In the 21st century, the phenomenon of interaction in between fine art and design has become more increasingly prevalent. In this paper, the author has analyzed the major works of Spanish artist Eva $Armis{\dot{e}}n$ on a cultural criticism perspective, and has proposed a framework for a deeper understating of the artworks, which reflected the characteristics of contemporary art and culture such as deterritorialization of art and design. As a result, it has been found that the main theme of her artworks is about preferred attitude of a human being in relationship with others, unlike daily lives or innocence of childhood which are well-known subjects to the public. Her main female character could have been formed by blending all of her aesthetic reason, and characteristics of this era and cultural elements. It means that the area where the public enjoys the sense of beauty have been extending from the area of the beautiful to the beauty of universality. It has been found that deterriorialization phenomena, which is a characteristic of post-modern art and design work to dismantle an existing order, the repression, appeared in her work. However, several research areas of her works such as relationship between text and image or formative elements or aphorism etc. still have remained to be solved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.958-967
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• 2009

Just as various religions of the world have multiple systems based on their own belief system respectively, religious costumes, which are the expression of religion, are varied in forms according to different religions. Nonetheless, this research attempts to examine the universal features of the variety of religious costumes. Since the range of this research is broad and the limit of study is clear, this research confines the study objects into world's four high religions. The purposes of this research are as followings; first, the investigation of the world's high religions, second, the study of the figurative attributes of religious costume to study and discuss the universality of figurative beauty and aesthetic value. Figurative attributes are distinct in religious costume. First, the non structural feature of composition, and the manner in which the costume is worn. Second, the rich silhouette covering the body. Third, the restraint and inhibition of decoration, and fourth, the preference of achromatic color and monotones. 'The beauty of concealing', derived from the religious absolute and chastity, 'The beauty of chastity' influenced by the restraint of decoration and design, and 'The beauty of nature' as the drapery and non structural feature are the universal aesthetic values. Human beings tend to contact the divine beings by pursuing the essential thing and concealing the body through religion. The forms of concealment and chastity, mentioned above are reflected in the usual costumes, affected by religion as well as religious costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.56-72
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.67-81
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• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.213-231
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find a root from naturalism to contribute the identity of Korean fashion design in the world which has universality and particularity. The beauty of nature has accumulated in our unconscious-ness, influenced to our unconsciousness, and contributed to make the formative sense. Our consciousness influenced by climate, for example, the sense of softness from soft curve which can feel from the sight of Korean mountain, land the sense of comfort and security from round rock formed by weathering, the sense of thick-ness from cotton to endure cold winter etc. has a tendency to thick and act by nature's law. This tendency made naturalism by Korean climate and linked to the sense of natural-istic beauty and became a important part forming the Korean fashion design. In this study, the researcher found Korean climate is a important factor acting in our consciousness, and influenced the formative sense. The concept of climate which is made our formative sense include topography, climate, soil, plant and so on. This influenced a lot to set up a foundation of Korean fashion design. And the naturalism by Korean climate newly created and developed shape, color, material and design. It is our duty to develope design based on naturalism to secure the competitive power against the world in this period of information and this design is getting important as a high value added method put into Korean culture. Therefore, developing Korean design which shapes the beauty of Korean nature and traditional culture will have a important competitive power in the world. Moreover, it will make a new tradition of Korean fashion culture stagnated by internationally universalized western fashion after the modernization. Also, it will be needed to develop a common design which can be agreed not only us but all the world for the request of these days of international. Therefore, this study contributed to find definite ours and found centripetal point to find the direction of Korean's philosophy and ideology. But this approach, we could secure the competitive power in this period of international and information and determine and develope the Korean fashion as a culture base, leading the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.4 s.94
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• Sijohaknonchong
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• v.30
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• pp.219-240
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• 2009

Jasan An Whak did research on the essence of Sijo to show that Sijo has some features as a literature. I tried to show the formation process of Sijo theory in 1930s through Jasan's Sijo theory. As a preparatory step for it, I introduced Jasan's Sijo theory released in early 1930s and examined the characteristic aspects of it. Jasan recognized a literature as a directing post that reveals the history of our national spirit. He thought a literature as a foundation for satisfying new age. Also, he recognized the essence of a literature as a emotional expression. He emphasized that a new literature in Joseon age should have not only particularity of Joseon literature but also universality of modern literature. Jasan studied style of Sijo. Because he was at the time of modernization, he used the term, 'style', instead of 'poongkyeok', which had used before modern time. He tried to show linguistic artistry of Sijo through the series of his works about the style of Sijo. Jasan tried to find formal beauty of Sijo in the aspect of rhythm instead of rhyme. And he claimed that poetic words can be lengthened or shortened to be harmonious with the melody of Sijo. In other words, it is possible to change the words of Sijo for harmonizing with a tune. Jasan recognized that the words of Sijo have a musical function as well as a semantic function.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.4
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• pp.123-144
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• 2006

Foreigners who arrived in Korea after the age of enlightenment were Japanese, Chinese and 'Westerners' who were Europeans and Americans. The westerners were diplomats who visited Korea for colonization or for increasing their economical profits by trading after the spread of imperialism, and tourists curious of back countries, artists, explores and missionaries to perform their roles for their religious beliefs. They contacted with Korean cultural and educational people as missionaries and instructors during Japanese colonial period. In 1945, the allied forces occupied Korea under the name of takeover of Japanese colony after Japan's surrender and the relation between foreigners and Korean cultured men enter upon a new phase. For 3 years, American soldiers enforced lots of systems in Korea and many pro-American people were educated. This relationship lasted even after the establishment of the government of Korean Republic and especially, diplomats called as pro-Korean group came again after Korean War. Among them, there were lots of foreigners interested in cultures and arts. In particular, government officials under American Forces who were influential on political circles or diplomats widened their insights toward Korean cultural assets and collected them a lot. Those who were in Korea from the period of independence to 1950s wrote their impressions about Korean cultural assets on newspapers or journals after visiting contemporary Korean exhibitions. Among them, A. J. McTaggart, Richard Hertz and the Hendersons were dominant. They thought the artists had great interests in compromising and uniting the Orient and the West based on their knowledge of Korean cultural assets and they advised. However, it was different from Korean artist's point of view that the foreigners thought Korean art adhered oriental features and contained western contents. From foreigners' point of view, it is hard to understand the attitude Korean artists chose to keep their self-respect through experiencing the Korean war. It is difficult to distinguish their thought about Korean art based on their exotic taste from the Korean artists' local and peninsular features under Japanese imperialism. We can see their thought about Korean art and their viewpoint toward the third world, after staying in Korea for a short period and being a member of the first world. The basic thing was that they could see the potentialities through the worldwide, beautiful Korean cultural assets and they thought it was important to start with traditions. It is an evidence showing Korean artists' pride in regard to the art culture through experiencing the infringement of their country. By writing about illuminating Korean art from the third party's view, foreigners represented their thoughts through it that their economical, military superiority goes with their cultural superiority. The Korean artist's thought of emphasizing Korean history and traditions, reexamining and using it as an original creation may have been inspired by westerners' writings. 'The establishment of national art' that Korean artists gave emphasis then, didn't only affect one of the reactions toward external impact, 'the adhesion of tradition'. In the process of introducing Korean contemporary art and national treasure in America, different view caused by role differences-foreigner as selector and Korean as assistant-showed the fact evidently that the standard of beauty differed between them. By emphasizing that the basis to classify Korean cultural assets is different from the neighborhood China and Japan, they tried to reflect their understanding that the feature of Korean art is on speciality other than universality. And this make us understand that even when Korean artists profess modernism, they stress that the roots are on Korean and oriental tradition. It was obviously a different thought from foreigners' view on Korean art that Korean artists' conception of modernism and traditional roots are inherent in Korean history. In 1950s, after the independence, Korea had different ideas from foreigners that abstract was to be learned from the west. Korea was enduring tough times with their artists' self-respect which made them think that they can learn the method, but the spirit of abstract is in the orient.