• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.101-112
• /
• 2005

21th is the century of culture. So each country create new culture from tradition, and at the hub, there is Rapid development of network which makes these things to be able. Also, Korea selected Han-Bok as a symbol of Korea culture, and also Han-Bok internationally. Han-Bok expresses our nation's emotion very well, and also, Han-Bok has universality that can stimulate on world's sensitivity. Consequently, this study will arrange and analyze the records of foreigners' feeling who visited in the period of the opening of a port as a target of our study. This study will offer materials for study in the period of the opening of a port. Also, this study will discover the significance and organization of our clothes. Way to wear it and the beauty of our clothes that we didn't even realize or not mentioned on the record because we were too accustomed to our beauty from the ancient time. So, we would like to be basic study that can make our clothes globally and appeal to world's sensitivity by finding the universality. The result of this study is as follows. First, the items of hat made us be called as a 'world of hat' so, Gat, Galmo(갈모), a women's winter hat(조바위), a fur-lined hood(남바위) and Ayam(아얌) will be obtained the world's focus. Secondly, we checked Belt, breast-tie, rainbow striped sleeves and Pocket which append vitality and movement arrested the foreigners' attention. Thirdly, foreigner's were interested with straw shoes and paper shoes.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제16권8호
• /
• pp.435-447
• /
• 2016

21세기로 접어들면서 순수미술과 디자인과의 교류 및 융합 현상이 더욱 활발해 졌다. 이 논문에서는 현재 왕성한 활동을 하고 있는 스페인 출신의 예술가 에바 알머슨의 주요 작품을 분석하였다. 이를 토대로, 동시대 미술과 문화의 특성이 반영된 그녀의 작품 세계를 보다 깊이 이해할 수 있는 학술적 틀을 제시하고자 하였다. 에바 알머슨의 작품을 분석한 결과, 그녀의 작품의 주요 주제는 대중들에게 잘 알려진 일상이나 동심보다는 인간 관계성, 즉 타인과의 관계 속에서 가져야 할 인간으로서 바람직한 태도 등 사회성 측면에 더 비중이 높다는 것이 밝혀졌다. 알머슨의 작품에서 특히 여성 성인 캐릭터가 전체 작품 중 등장 빈도가 가장 높고 각 작품 주제를 전달하는 중요한 역할을 한다. 이 캐릭터는 그녀이 심미적 원인, 시대적 특성, 문화적 요소가 어우러져 이미지가 형성된 것으로 볼 수 있다. 20세기의 상황과는 다르게, 현재 알머슨의 작품 속 여성 인물이 대중의 사랑을 받고 있다는 것으로서, 대중들이 미를 향유하는 영역이 순수미에서 보편성의 미로 변화 확장되고 있다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 또한 그녀의 캐릭터적 여성 인물이 순수미술의 특성과 캐릭터 디자인의 특성을 동시에 갖추고 있는 점과, 알머슨의 작품이 갤러리에서 거래됨과 동시에 마트에서도 구매할 수 있는 상품의 모습 갖추고 거래된다는 점 등에서 포스트모던작품의 특징인 미술과 디자인의 탈경계 현상이 알머슨의 작품에서도 드러남을 알 수 있었다. 하지만 그녀 작품의 텍스트와 이미지의 관계, 독창적인 조형요소, 아포리즘적 특성 등은 앞으로 더 연구해야 할 과제로 남아 있다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권6호
• /
• pp.958-967
• /
• 2009

세계의 여러 종교들은 각기 다른 믿음체계를 바탕으로 다양한 체계를 갖추고 있으며, 종교적 의미의 표현인 종교복식 역시 종교별로 각기 다른 형식을 띠고 있다. 그러나 본 연구는 인류의 다양한 종교복식에서 나타나는 보편적 특징을 연구하는데 목적이 있다. 종교는 그 범위가 불분명하고, 연구의 한계성이 분명하므로 본 연구에서는 세계 4대 고등종교를 대상으로 연구한다. 본 연구의 목적은 첫째, 세계 고등종교에 대한 고찰, 둘째, 종교복식에 나타난 조형적 특징 연구, 셋째, 종교복식에 나타난 보편적 조형미와 미적가치에 대한 연구 및 논의 등이다. 세계 4대 고등종교의 종교복식에는 조형적 보편성이 존재한다. 첫째, 구성과 형태, 착장법 등에서의 비구조적 특징, 둘째, 인체를 감싸는 풍성한 실루엣, 셋째, 장식의 절제와 억제, 넷째, 무채색계열의 선호와 모노톤의 특징 등이다. 종교복식의 보편적 미적가치로는 종교적 절대성과 정숙성 등으로 인한 '감춤의 미', 장식이나 문양 등의 억제와 단조로운 색상 등에서 '절제의 미' 그리고 드레이퍼리와 비구조적인 특징에서는 '자연의 미'가 나타난다. 인간은 종교를 통해 본질적인 것을 추구하고 인체를 은폐함으로써 신성한 것과 접촉하려고 한다. 종교복식은 초자연적 타계와 믿음에 대한 표현이며, 의식의례 행위이다. 각 종교의 종교복식은 물론 종교의 영향을 받은 복식에도 이러한 감춤과 절제의 형식들이 고스란히 반영되어 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.56-72
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.67-81
• /
• 2009

The culture of each era make their own art, and it is certain a sense of beauty is changed according to a flow of era. We can find an unique beauty in the traditional culture of one era. And it is formed by the local and climatically influences according to their own ethnic character. Furthermore, an unique beauty is became an important element in forming the culture. That is, it is the universality in general. What is important is to develop of one's tradition on the background of the past for the future. This study is focused on the personal ornaments of women's Gache among the Cyubang culture in Chosun era. Throughout the study of clothing design that applies various decorative elements like an ornamental hairpin, a chignon ornament, and ttoljam among the women's Gache, this study is proposed to internationalize of clothing design utilizing the Korean specific character. The concepts of this study are as follows : First, grasp a definition and notion about Gyubang Culture of Chosun Era. Second, consider the definition of ornamental culture and the specific characters and kinds of women's ornaments. Third, analyze the trend and examples in the modern fashion applying women's ornaments. The method of this study included national science and literature, fashion magazines, newspapers, internet, and the research of like materials, with the intent to set a foundation for understanding ornamental design. Throughout these backgrounds, I try to develop and make six modern clothing design that applies women's Gache.

• 복식
• /
• 제38권
• /
• pp.213-231
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find a root from naturalism to contribute the identity of Korean fashion design in the world which has universality and particularity. The beauty of nature has accumulated in our unconscious-ness, influenced to our unconsciousness, and contributed to make the formative sense. Our consciousness influenced by climate, for example, the sense of softness from soft curve which can feel from the sight of Korean mountain, land the sense of comfort and security from round rock formed by weathering, the sense of thick-ness from cotton to endure cold winter etc. has a tendency to thick and act by nature's law. This tendency made naturalism by Korean climate and linked to the sense of natural-istic beauty and became a important part forming the Korean fashion design. In this study, the researcher found Korean climate is a important factor acting in our consciousness, and influenced the formative sense. The concept of climate which is made our formative sense include topography, climate, soil, plant and so on. This influenced a lot to set up a foundation of Korean fashion design. And the naturalism by Korean climate newly created and developed shape, color, material and design. It is our duty to develope design based on naturalism to secure the competitive power against the world in this period of information and this design is getting important as a high value added method put into Korean culture. Therefore, developing Korean design which shapes the beauty of Korean nature and traditional culture will have a important competitive power in the world. Moreover, it will make a new tradition of Korean fashion culture stagnated by internationally universalized western fashion after the modernization. Also, it will be needed to develop a common design which can be agreed not only us but all the world for the request of these days of international. Therefore, this study contributed to find definite ours and found centripetal point to find the direction of Korean's philosophy and ideology. But this approach, we could secure the competitive power in this period of international and information and determine and develope the Korean fashion as a culture base, leading the world.

• 복식
• /
• 제56권5호
• /
• pp.132-149
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권4호
• /
• pp.62-78
• /
• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• 한국시조학회지:시조학논총
• /
• 제30집
• /
• pp.219-240
• /
• 2009

자산 안확은 시조가 문학으로서의 자질을 갖고 있음을 밝히기 위해 시조의 본질을 탐구하였다. 필자는 자산의 시조론을 통해 1930년대 시조로 형성과정을 밝히고자 한다. 그 예비단계로 본고에서는 1930년대 초반에 발표된 자산의 시조론을 개괄하고 그 특징적 면모를 살펴보고자 한다. 자산은 우리 민족의 정신 발달사를 드러내는 하나의 지표로서 문학을 인식한다. 그는 문학을 새로운 시대에 부흥하기 위한 토대로 여기고 있었다. 아울러 그는 문학의 본질을 미적 감정의 표현으로 인식하였다. 과가 강조한 조선의 새로운 문학은 근대문학의 보편성과 조선문학의 특수성을 동시에 지니고 있는 것이어야 했다. 자산은 시조의 문체를 연구한다. 근대화가 이루어지는 경계선에 서 있었던 자산은 근대 이전에 사용하던 '풍격'이라는 용어를 '문체'라는 용어로 현대적으로 변용하여 사용한다. 자산이 시조의 문체를 연구하는 일련의 작업들은 시조의 언어 예술성을 밝히려는 노력이었다. 자산은 우수율(宇數律)보다는 구박자(口拍子)에서 시조의 형식미를 찾고자 했다 그리고 시조의 선율에 어울리기 위해서는 시어를 연장할 수도 있고 축약할 수도 있다고 주장한다. 즉 시조의 곡조와 조화를 이루기 위해서는 가사의 변개마저도 가능하다는 것이다. 자산은 시조의 가사는 내용전달이라는 의미론적인 기능뿐만 아니라 음악적 기능도 한다는 것으로 인식하였다.

• 미술이론과 현장
• /
• 제4호
• /
• pp.123-144
• /
• 2006

Foreigners who arrived in Korea after the age of enlightenment were Japanese, Chinese and 'Westerners' who were Europeans and Americans. The westerners were diplomats who visited Korea for colonization or for increasing their economical profits by trading after the spread of imperialism, and tourists curious of back countries, artists, explores and missionaries to perform their roles for their religious beliefs. They contacted with Korean cultural and educational people as missionaries and instructors during Japanese colonial period. In 1945, the allied forces occupied Korea under the name of takeover of Japanese colony after Japan's surrender and the relation between foreigners and Korean cultured men enter upon a new phase. For 3 years, American soldiers enforced lots of systems in Korea and many pro-American people were educated. This relationship lasted even after the establishment of the government of Korean Republic and especially, diplomats called as pro-Korean group came again after Korean War. Among them, there were lots of foreigners interested in cultures and arts. In particular, government officials under American Forces who were influential on political circles or diplomats widened their insights toward Korean cultural assets and collected them a lot. Those who were in Korea from the period of independence to 1950s wrote their impressions about Korean cultural assets on newspapers or journals after visiting contemporary Korean exhibitions. Among them, A. J. McTaggart, Richard Hertz and the Hendersons were dominant. They thought the artists had great interests in compromising and uniting the Orient and the West based on their knowledge of Korean cultural assets and they advised. However, it was different from Korean artist's point of view that the foreigners thought Korean art adhered oriental features and contained western contents. From foreigners' point of view, it is hard to understand the attitude Korean artists chose to keep their self-respect through experiencing the Korean war. It is difficult to distinguish their thought about Korean art based on their exotic taste from the Korean artists' local and peninsular features under Japanese imperialism. We can see their thought about Korean art and their viewpoint toward the third world, after staying in Korea for a short period and being a member of the first world. The basic thing was that they could see the potentialities through the worldwide, beautiful Korean cultural assets and they thought it was important to start with traditions. It is an evidence showing Korean artists' pride in regard to the art culture through experiencing the infringement of their country. By writing about illuminating Korean art from the third party's view, foreigners represented their thoughts through it that their economical, military superiority goes with their cultural superiority. The Korean artist's thought of emphasizing Korean history and traditions, reexamining and using it as an original creation may have been inspired by westerners' writings. 'The establishment of national art' that Korean artists gave emphasis then, didn't only affect one of the reactions toward external impact, 'the adhesion of tradition'. In the process of introducing Korean contemporary art and national treasure in America, different view caused by role differences-foreigner as selector and Korean as assistant-showed the fact evidently that the standard of beauty differed between them. By emphasizing that the basis to classify Korean cultural assets is different from the neighborhood China and Japan, they tried to reflect their understanding that the feature of Korean art is on speciality other than universality. And this make us understand that even when Korean artists profess modernism, they stress that the roots are on Korean and oriental tradition. It was obviously a different thought from foreigners' view on Korean art that Korean artists' conception of modernism and traditional roots are inherent in Korean history. In 1950s, after the independence, Korea had different ideas from foreigners that abstract was to be learned from the west. Korea was enduring tough times with their artists' self-respect which made them think that they can learn the method, but the spirit of abstract is in the orient.