• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.7
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• pp.1098-1108
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• 2009

This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.153-169
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• 2003

I think that apparel attaches importance to the degree of satisfaction of visual expression in one ornamental culture in which it is clothed on human body. whereas a tattoo attaches more importance to part of the expression of one's own identity in the same context. However. modern tattooing act was highlighted only as an element of act which was negative in the purpose and the degree of taste or which assumed the grotesque meaning of a particular group. away from pure concepts such as simple ornament or an amulet according to the flow of the world. A tattoo is gradually being seen as one of avant-garde methods of art again these days, and TATTOO LOOK is being popularized as street fashion as an effective method of one's own satisfied desires and peculiar expression of personality. I have got the following conclusions as the result of having studied on a tattoo which is establishing itself as another plastic art that is matchable with the fashion of dress and its ornaments in which human incessant instinctive desire for the ornament of body has been beyond nostalgia for the past and simple ornament which were pure in up-to-date modern society First, a tattoo is of personality. In that it solidifies one's own personality of another side by being transformed, one's own attraction can be transferred to a fashion tattoo with which one can emit one's own personality. Secondly. a tattoo is fashion. As a new body ornament called transformation by a tattoo was emerging, the fashionableness owned by a tattoo had in its area ample room for the fashionableness with which it can coexist with the culture of dress and its ornaments. Thirdly. a tattoo is popularized. TATTOO LOOK in which one's own satisfied desires and the expression of personality are properly applied is being recently transmitted easily everywhere in the world and popularized as street fashion. Fourthly, a tattoo is not depraved art. It's because of the point that a tattoo which had been recognized only as a decadent expression in which avant-garde elements of unknown nationality appeared mixed showed the possibility that it could establish itself as fashion art. If we go on studying and complementing the problems of individual sides about a tattoo also in the future, the infinite fashionableness for the elements called personality. sense and emotion owned by a tattoo suggested ample possibility as future industry to be highlighted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.239-255
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• 1998

Art deco means decorative form on the base of cubism which has widely spread from 1910's to 1930's. Also it pursued the rational & functional design even than deecoration of art nouvear, and colorful combination of fauvism. The analytical study on design included occurrence, developing process and formative features expressed in the art deco fashion. The changes of the art deco style, it referred to the fashion illustration which was the Graphic-s of Ert in 19 century. Besides analysised activity designer in the art deco style, at the same time considered fashion design as comparable analysis. Paul Poiret, a representative french designer, contributed to the clothing culture which accepted oriental influence and it was all the fashion enough to call the originator of present fashion. He did away with the corset, relaxed the waistline, and freed the body from clothing constrictions of almost a hundred years. Since 1914, because of industry of woman clothing that art deco represent concern of one's Chanel's perennial rival in the firmanent of parisian high fashion was the Italian designers, Elsa Schiaparelli, Schiaparelli's originalily was profoundly influenced by the avant-garde art of the time ; Da da and Surealism were principal soures of new ideas. It apply the style to geometrical or abstract form impressed straight and smooth line on suitable technic. Such inflection of art deco heralded a close collaboration between the artist-jeweller and the fashion industry. Especially, jewelry designers were fond of juxtaposing transparent faceted stoned which reflected the light, with matt stones, which offered rare or unconventional contrasts through their opacity. Consequently, art deco will exert value of utility for the progressive fashion & jewel CAD through continuous research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.143-157
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• 2000

The pastiche is one of the most unique characteristics in the post-modern period. The pastiche fashion design is an intentional imitation expressed by deconstructivity of the design. It has become the major creation method of post-modern fashion by expressing the image from the variety and creativity. The concept of imitation in pastiche is the important fashion subject which lead the dynamics and creativities of fashion when It has freshness and spiritual energy. The values of creative area of pastiche are as fellows - firstly, it provides the delightness through the disharmony by being released from the restraint and stress of the restricted society. Secondly, the characteristics of restoration generated by development and reproduced from imitation has become an origin of creation. Thirdly, the boundary between subculture and high-class culture would be dismantled and the elements of these culture are mixed to become a unique image through its abundance and compromise vague public culture. Fourthly, the pastiche fashion dismantles the basic structure of clothes to endow avant-garde esthetic appreciation. Fifthly, the folklore fashion representing the culture of minority and neighboring countries would become a new destroying the historically fixed clue. sixthly, the reinterpretation of pastiche fashion discovers the new regulations and beauties from Imitation to provides tow Important elements of post-capitalism fashion, dynamics and creativity. Lastly the consistent adaptation of image of fashion design with strong technical and theoretical basis can establish new fashions of this era with its unique creativeness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.112-126
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of 'movement' expression in modern fashion(1910-2004) based on a study of modern fine arts which adopted 'movement' element in their work. In this study the meaning of movement was defined as motion, changing position and transformation. Literature survey through books and research papers and demonstrative study with fashion collection photos were undertaken. The results wert as follows ; 1) Kinetic art, optical an, light kinetic art and technology art such as video and computer art have adopted 'movement' element in their work. 2) The plasticities of 'movement' fine arts were identified as mutual penetration, increase of visibility, use of non-traditional materials and dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of fine art, optimistic attitude on technology, spectator participation and integration of art and life. 3) The 'movement' expression in modern fashion was distinctively found in 1910s-20s(avant-garde fashion), 1960s (kinetic and optical art fashion) and mid 1990s to 2004 (techno-cyber fashion). 4) The plasticities of the 'movement' expression in modern fashion were identified as non-definition, use of non-traditional materials, dynamism. The internal meanings were identified as expansion of aesthetic experience and the concept of dress, optimistic attitude on technology, playfulness through participation. In conclusion, the expression of 'movement' in modern fashion has optimistic viewpoint on the development of modern society and is one of the interesting design points which will be pursued in the fellowing years.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.18-35
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• 2008

As an essential factor of plasticity in fashion, color reflects socio-cultural trends and has possessed different symbolism in its historical development. This study aims to search for an academic approach towards finding out how the concepts and symbolism of the color white were expressed in actual clothing. This will be realized through the investigation of the various meanings this particular color possesses. The secondary purpose of this study is to give shape to the results of above said academic investigation by proposing their integration into actual fashion design. The methodology employed in this study and results are as follows. First, the symbolism of the color white abstracted from the research of literature on this subject was classified into six categories; purity, grace, abstinence, sublimity, decorativeness, and avant-garde. Second, for empirical research, six designs were developed and produced into white dresses. The development of these dress designs was realized by presenting the symbolism of the aforementioned six categories into images, and the formative constructions of these images by applying various design details, expressive techniques, and characteristics of the materials. Through an investigation into the color white, which has been excluded from previous chromatics research as a major color, integration of the symbolism and chromatic image of this color into the actual fashion design process is made possible. The significance of this study is in that it proposes multifarious possibilities in fashion design, and also in extending the horizon of chromatics research in fashion through the realization of the above process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1427-1438
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• 1997

The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.251-268
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• 2018

This study suggests a fashion design using aesthetic characteristics of works by Kate MccGwire, a modern sculptor paying attention to soft sculpture materials such as feathers. In this research on MccGwire works, their internal meanings may be derived as the dualism of familiarity, movement and consciousness. Works also have aesthetic characteristics of overlapping, fluidity and twist. Using such characteristics, 4 one piece dresses and 2 vest dresses were made. Research findings are as follows. First, aesthetic characteristics of MccGwire works could be expanded into expressive areas of silhouettes and details in fashion. Second, visual flow and concentration could be expressed by gradual coloration of feather colors. Third, dart manipulation could be applied naturally by details and curve silhouettes of fashion design. Fourth, touch of feather material could be expressed fully by leaving the edge of garments raw. Fifth, spatiality of fashion could be implemented partially by applying decorative saddle stitching to costume design details. This study explored a potential of soft sculpture occurred during a transitional process of objet pursued by 20th century's avant-garde artists applicable to fashion design ideas that suggested methods for contemporary creative design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.904-912
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• 2003

This study for‘Head Image’, which is affected by individual Image, is via fashion collection to analyze formative feature, fashion emotion and meaning structure of emotion and to inquire into correlation. I will offer fundamental data, which is can use Image making from the state of thing. First, to make charm and personal image, if we consider Head image well, it will very effective by the reason that personality and charm operate as important factors in fashion sensibility of Head Image. Second, we can know Head Image has more strong influence the part of emotion than fashion sensibility by showing that the sense of emotion is higher than this point of view of fashion sensibility in Head Image. Third, As a result of the correlation of fashion sensibility and emotion in Head Image, personal Head Image is effective to attract public gaze by causing negative emotion, and attractive Head Image is effective to give pleasant feeling by causing positive emotion. Forth, Avant-garde, Punk, Kitsch Image were estimated as the most personal things and Romantic, Ethnic Image were estimated as the most attractive things of the type of Head Image. Natural Image was estimated as the most feminine thing, and Elegant Image was estimated as the most mature thing. Fifth, when we look into the different appraisals between experts and amateurs about fashion sensibility and emotion of Head Image, a selection of experts are used to peculiar and strong Head Image, so amateurs respond it more sensitively and highly evaluate.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.73-82
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to help understanding of fashion trend since 2000 years, to play a guideline's role in the development on fashion designs study. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through expert investigation and analysis of case studies about actual works. Fashion trends since 2000 years are summarized classic, sporty, elegance, ethnic, natural, romantic, vintage, futurism by expert investigation and analysis of case studies about actual works. Image of fashion trends are abstracted that Classic image is harmony, moderation, accuracy, completeness, neatness, manish from keep an archetype to eliminate additional things, Sporty image is daily, active, enjoyment by the pursuit of a movement and freedom, Elegance image is feminine, grace from the tender moderated and feminity, Ethnic image is folkway, handicraft, vernacular to keep national character, local folkways and traditional ways. Natural image is nature, peaceful, purity, pastoral to the exclusion of artificiality and revert to natural, Romantic image is sensibility, fantastic, ornament, splendid from facing ideal world getting out of the reality, Vintage image is cozy, old, disorder, faden, freedom by expressing the flow of time and the mature beauty, Futurism image is future, experimental, avant-garde, man-made from positive perspective on future.