• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.112-119
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• 2013

This study focuses on an innate 'spiritual' quality of arts including building art, or a meaning of the religious philosophy of 'creativity-art'. In particular, this focuses, among two aspects in roots of modernism, especially on the irrational facet veiled by the name of 'a new' religious faith, rather than the rational such as the function. In fact, although modern Avant-gardes' religious philosophical faiths called by different names respectively have generally considered as one of the sources for their designs, nevertheless it had veiled because of the religious 'orthodoxy power' at that time. Arguably, as known well, the creativity of art is intimate relation with a religious ideas. Thus, for this purpose, this study treats this theme in central these three issues; Orientalism, Universalism, and Froebelianism which are intimate in the realm of religious philosophy. Ultimately, through a research on the universal religious philosophy in all three objects as keeping a quality not of pantheism but of 'Panentheism' emphasizing the individual's 'divine' artistic volition, this study deepens the understanding on the Creativity-art as the main characteristic of modernity. Namely, it is very important to draw a distinction between pantheism and Panentheism; because, through the pantheism, it is difficult to comprehend a stream and a characteristic of the twentieth new religious thoughts including those of modern avant-garde artists, as well as their existential free-will as a whole.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.27-42
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• 2006

Many contemporary architectural avant gardes tend to use painting as a medium to create architecture which goes beyond the rationalized spatial conception of modem architecture represented by perspectivism. They produce non perspective drawings to represent spatial Ideas, and expand it through poetic imagination to create an unexpected architectural form and space. This paper attempts to analyze the historical origin and background of dominance of drawing in the production of architecture. It was with the invention of perspective that architectural representation became important tool for architectural production. Thereafter, drawing was considered prior to actual building and architecture was considered a three dimensional realization of two dimensional drawing. Modernist avant gardes such as Cubism shattered the rationalized pictorial space of perspective and found a new pictorial space. They tried to extend it to three dimensional space through parallel projection largely based on the Hildebrand's theory of pure visibility. However, due to the ambiguity of the position of the viewing subject, their attempts could not succeed in creating a new architecture. The new architectural avant garde of the 70's rediscovered the early 20th century avant gardes in their attempt to create a new architecture which can register the fragmented spatial condition of contemporary society, and used painting as a medium to create architecture. Their difference from the early avant gardes was that they used poetic imagination rather than parallel projection in the process of projecting three dimensional space and form from the painting. However, their architecture cannot escape the scopic field of perspectivism in that they rely on the picture plane and the distance between object and viewing subject. Therefore, I conclude that in order to create architecture which goes beyond the rationalized space of modern architecture, it is necessary to resort to other tradition of modern architecture than visual one.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-37
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• 1999

The results of this study are as follows : 1. Though Korean college women have taken unfriendly attitudes and thoughts to Japan, they have enjoyed themselves over the various Japanese cultures. 2. They have thought that Japanese fashion becomes popular in Korea, Japanese clothes are superior to Korean clothes in quality, and they are suitable to express personality. 3. Japanese clothing elements which become popular now in Korea are the clothing style of ‘school girl-look’, ‘Avant-garde’, punk hair style, and the various shapes of shoes, accessories, and make-up.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.5
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• pp.135-174
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• 2007

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.117-130
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.18-32
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.15
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• pp.167-198
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• 2013

This paper explores rich and complex implications of Marcel Duchamp's Mile of String which he created for "First Papers of Surrealism," the Surrealist international exhibition in New York in 1942. Part of a larger project devoted to investigating Duchamp's role in Surrealist exhibitions and his relation to the avant-garde group, this paper focuses on Duchamp's exhibition installation in the 1942 show. Under the title of "g$\acute{e}$n$\acute{e}$rateur-arbitre" Duchamp played an important role as installation and exhibition designer in a series of major Surrealist exhibitions in the 1930's-1960's. The "First Papers of Surrealism" was held by Surrealists who exiled in New York during World War I, and Duchamp created a labyrinthine installation of string for the exhibition, which physically blocked the spectator and optically hindered his or her contemplative view. Unraveling the intricately related meanings of Mile of String as an independent work of art and an installation for a specific exhibition, I examine the work on two levels: first, how the work was situated in the context of Duchamp's oeuvre, particularly his earlier work employing string or thread; second, how and in what way the installation rendered a critique on Surrealism as a group and an avant-garde movement. More specifically, by exploring the concepts of 'pataphysics' and voluntary 'nomadism' implicated in Duchamp's work, I suggest that his Mile of String asserted a critical stance against nationalism and collective identity of Surrealism and manifested a radical individualism founded upon what he called the spirit of 'expatriation.'

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.217-233
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• 2012

Placeness forms the traits unique to certain areas inducing people to visit there and purchase goods related to the place. The purpose of this study is to survey fashion images linked with placeness, by examining on-line and off-line fashion goods which claim the placeness. Hong-dae area in Seoul is selected for the case study, and the fashion goods claiming Hong-dae style or Hong-dae fashion are selected in order to analyze the fashion images. Hong-dae area, which was known for its art scenes and small restaurants in the 1980s, has been flourished its postmodern style cafes formed as yuppies-style consumer space in the 1990s. Foreign influenced subcultures were adopted, mimicked and mixed. Afterwards, dance clubs and live clubs gathered around this area. Recently, various local events to enhance the place identity such as "freemarket" and festivals are hosted by the local community. Based on the historical and regional background, the placeness of Hong-dae area is characterized with its artistry, counter-culturalism, and commercialism. The fashion images related of Hong-dae area fashion can be characterized as avant-garde image, art & craft image, kitsch image, vintage image, sexy casual image, and pop art image. The avant-garde image and the art & craft image are related with altistry and counter-culturalism. Kitsch image is related with the artistry, counter-culturalism, and the commercialism. Vintage image is related with artistry, counter-culturalism and commercialism. Sexy casual image is known to have commercialism of Hong-dae area, while Pop art image has its artistry and commercialism.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.6
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• pp.862-873
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of the Military style in the 20th century and the images of the Military look shown in recent collections. The results of this study are as follows; 1) The aesthetic values of the Military style includes authority, functionality, resistibility and bisexuality. Authority is represented in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Functionality is represented in pants suits and skirts suits which are comfortable and simple. Resistibility is represented in wrinkled, dirty-old and torn military items. Bisexuality is shown on the military pants suits that a skirt or a mink coat is draped over. 2) The Military look in collections are expressed in classic, romantic, sexual, sporty, avant-garde and ethnic images. Classic images are appeared in suits and coats attaching details such as epaulets, flap pockets, gold buttons and badges. Romantic images are represented in the military items made of pastel-tone lace or splendid colored silk. Sexual images are appeared in designs to expose or to focus in women's body. Sporty images are represented in the military items made of new materials such as cotton-fleece, cotton-jersey and tencel. They have camouflage prints, melange-gray and fluorescent colors. Avant-garde images are appeared in the deformed suits and outer made of special materials with camouflage prints, khaki, gray and black. Ethnic images are represented in wearing military and ethnic items at the same time or military items made of ethnic colors, prints and handmade details.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.18 no.8
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• pp.586-593
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• 2018

When newsreel was organized in 1967, it was a small but strong revolution. New York newsreel became the third world newsreel in 1972. The third world newsreel clearly stated that the purpose of the organization should be the alternative provision of the Television news. They also notified the revolution of the production system and the distribution system. Christine Choy who actively worked at the Third world newsreel succeeded the spirit of the organization through her works. Through the third world newsreel and Christine Choy who was the representative of the organization, this article is dealing with the mode of production and the style and the aesthetics of the Newsreel. Their activities were originally political and always controversial. They agonized who should be the film maker, how should be the distribution system. Through the strong arguments, the group had acquired not only collective identity but also collective production. Those collaborations had become the foundation of their works. Christine Choy has been a key figure of the Third world newsreel and her films has focused on the racial problem and gender problem. Her works have always been political and historical.