• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.64-75
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• 2024

Clothing is a powerful medium that reflects the environment, situation, and trends of the times. It has been an important subject of semiotic analysis, particularly in East Asia. While Korea, China, Japan, and Mongolia are geographically close, they have each developed unique characteristics in their clothing. These characteristics continue to evolve over time. The purpose of this paper is to explore the modern fashion design characteristics of these four East Asian countries by using the Greimas symbol square. To achieve this, the paper follows a research method consisting of several steps. First, it considers previous studies on the topic. Second, it analyzes fashion collections from Paris, Milan, New York, and London, as well as the Seoul and Cruise collections, from 2013 to 2024. Third, it compares costumes and modern fashion designs of brands known for their East Asian influences. Finally, it applies the framework of the Greimas symbol square to analyze the main elements of dress culture in these four countries and their significance in modern fashion collections. The findings of this study reveal that East Asian costume culture can be summarized into four distinct characteristics in modern fashion. Korea is characterized by "moderation," China by "exaggeration," Japan by "distinctiveness," and Mongolia by "symbolism."

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.46-58
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• 2016

Architecture and Fashion mutually affects the shape and appearance of the other as an art of space according to the hybrid trends. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to find the correlations between the characteristics of traditional architecture types in Southeast Asia and modern fashion. Firstly, characteristics of the types obtained through the theoretical consideration of Southeast Asian architectural tradition include vertical, symmetrical, geometrical, epeated and continual structure. On the basis of these characteristics analyzed from 2013's S/S to 2015's F/W collection of Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Victor & Rolf, designers with strong creative and experimental minds who juxtaposed designs of two opposing points as well as hybrids since 2000, the following formativeness exists. First, the vertical structure of high floor is represented as a straight silhouette, a color contrast, vertical cut or wrinkle. Hence, it impresses verticality, rhythm, etc. Second, symmetrical structure of the gable roof is represented as a trapezoidal shape starting from the shoulder line or neck line widened into sleeves, impressing symmetry, dynamism, etc. Third, the geometry of the assembled is represented as vertical and horizontal bands or pattern pieces like puzzle, impressing geometry, three-dimensional, etc. Fourth, repeated structure of the weaving pattern is represented as repetitive patterns of woven fabric or printing techniques. Thus, it impresses repeatability, harmony, etc. And lastly, continuous group structure is represented as a connection of collars or hem-lines, as well as a crossing of fabric that impresses continuity, liquidity, etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.54-59
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• 2003

Asia has the potential of becoming a center of power in fashion. Japan has worked hard to build images of beauty and serenity. The Chinese people already have enriched their business sense throughout history. China is considered as the next powerhouse of fashion. The Asian "mosaic" including Korea should be very colorful, deep, spiritual and beautiful. It is essential we upgrade and update the training and education of fashion leaders. It is possible to find a niche in a global market through maximizing our strength based upon a great and long history in manufacturing textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.20-31
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• 2011

Decentralization is an effort to liberalize people from its character of neutralizing or restraining people while indwelling in the previous thought system. Decentralization in fashion is one of the phenomenon of post-modernism fashion, and it is closely related to de-culturalism, crossover, abolition of rank, and etc, and it is in line with Asian look which includes orientalism fashion. The study intends to consider the Phenomenon of Decentralization of Asian Look and its Method depicted in the western fashion. The study focuses on documentary data, and the it is held with the basis of Asian look shown in western fashion. If ideology which influenced the formation of folk costume of Asia, Asian look is the dissolution of such ideology, and post-modern amusement is substituting it. The most conspicuous characteristic of decentralization phenomena of Asian look is pastiche which is a combination and reallocation of external style of many cultural zones and many folk costumes, and it shows mutual irrelevance, and it is a neutral imitation which has internal meaning and humor disappeared. Also, Asian look shows characteristics of parody and irony, which are reversal characteristics of aesthetic value which is expressed through methods of addition, modification, distortion, exaggeration, inversion, dissolution, and etc. Parody which is expressed through imitation regarding previous style shows effect of humor or satire, but its characteristics show that it expresses respect or admiration regarding the original The method of irony is showing sarcasm with ironical method regarding the peculiar style of Asian folk costume, and it pursues unexpected shock and joy, and it is closely related to orientalism fashion. Expansion and constancy of Asian look reflects the interest regarding folk of Asia and Asia, and it is a movement which intends new attempt by abolishing stereotype, and furthermore, it is expressing liberty of humans.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.687-699
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• 2011

Folk costumes in East Asia are characteristic in their colors of the five-element colors based on natural colors or achromatic colors (such as white or black) that imply the beauty of nature or the beauty of naivety. The Asian look adopts forms of Asian costumes into western costumes in terms of structure, silhouette, ornament, pattern, and color; in particular, color had very limited attributes. This study is a comparative study on colors, shown in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look. It discovered the differences of color in East Asian folk costumes and the Asian look to discuss the backgrounds of difference. For research, it simultaneously conducted literary reviews and empirical research based on the Asian look. Asian colors that appeared in some costumes of the Asian look were influenced by East Asian costumes, while the primary color of playfulness or color for low chroma or black exuding a contemporary nuance (common in the western fashion) were prevalent. This revealed that the costume that had the attribute of playfulness in terms of structure, ornament, or patterns is adopted in western fashion through the fusion of eastern forms and pastiche. Colors of the Asian look are different from those of East Asia with superficial imitation, in which all the East Asian spirits and symbolism are lost. While folk costumes of East Asia hold symbolism derived from Asian spirits, the Asian look disintegrates the ideology of East Asian costumes and replaces it with a Postmodern playfulness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.351-362
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• 2003

To study marketing strategy changes caused by Korea fashion industry development process, the fashion marketing strategy changes of Japan, considered as the most similar one of Korea, was compared. At each period, p! roper cost efficiency strategies, product differentiation strategies, and market segment strategies has been selected and applied. The fashion industry foundation period namely practical usage clothing period of Korea follows 10 years after one of Japan. 90's highly sensitive fashion period namely fashion industry growth period follows 5 years after one of Japan. As entering to fashion industry maturity period with global competition, the time difference falls to less than 5 years. With hosting of 2002's World-Cup, Korea's global competitiveness has increased, and it appears to be possible of being fashion market leader in East Asia and Japan's rival on an equal footing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.85-99
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to investigate the fashioning phenomenon of Muslim women's clothes and its significance for Islamic culture around Malaysia and Indonesia. The study examined the phenomenon of hijab, a cultural symbol of Muslim women, emerging as a 'fashion' rather than folk or religious costume, as well as its significance. As for methodology, the investigator reviewed research reports, previous papers, and literature studies home and abroad since 2010 and conducted an interview with seven female college students from Indonesia and Malaysia and one fashion editor from Malaysia staying in South Korea. The findings suggested that the high level of women's education and entry into society along with the Pop Islamic created an opportunity for hijab among Muslim ladies. The balance between religion and fashion leads to happiness among young Muslim women. Second, the modest fashion and global fashion retrends present a fashion culture and identify the diversity of aesthetic values around the globe. Finally, SNS and hijabista activities have promoted individual means of direction based on hijab to represent the identity of Muslims on SNS, they play an important role in the acceptance of global fashion and the fashioning and globalization of Southeast Asian Muslim clothes. The findings understanding of the consumers and markets of Muslim fashion related to global industries and contribute to the multicultural and diverse aspects of research and development in the field of apparel study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.387-393
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• 2005

This study compares shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia. It also investigates the meaning of shamanism and shamans,the relationship of Korean shamanism to shamanism, and the genealogy of Korean shamanism. For collecting and analyzing data of the research, literature reviews, field studies, and the investigation of historical relics are mostly used. The following are the major findings of the research: Through the comparison of shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, this research finds out some similarities and differences in the costumes. Both Korean shamans and Siberian and Central Asian shamans wore shaman's costumes and used utensils like bells or mirrors when they perform a religious service. On their costumes, they both used an element which stands for birds. However, they were different in terms of the materials or styles of the costumes, of the function of the costumes, and of the decorating with ornaments. The differences in the materials or styles of the costumes, different functions of the costumes, and using ornaments or not can be viewed as a general phenomenon, which is resulted from different environments. The soul's departing the body or the possession or a mixed method can be considered as mere variations due to regional or cultural differences. In conclusion, based on the comparison of the costumes of shamans of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, the shamans of Korea and Siberia and Central Asia share the same origin. And the genealogy of Korean shamans can be said to be originated from the northern shamanism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.