• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1350-1357
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• 2003

This research was aimed to establish the standard extraction and analytical procedures for examining the chromophoric substance in madder root with the ultimate goal of identifying the dyes in badly faded textiles of archaeological origin. The separation temperature of gas chromatography, pH and other extraction conditions were tested. The results were as follows: The suitable separation temperature for the GC cappillary column was 50∼305$^{\circ}C$, and methanol was a good GC solvent for both standard alizarin and madder extraction. The best extraction of madder was achieved by 90 min soaking in room temperature followed by filtration and the actual heat extraction procedure. The best pH for extracting alizarin was pH 3 and above pH 5 alizarin was not detectible. Only alizarin and no purpurin was found in the extraction of the currently used madder plant.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-25
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• 2010

Archaeological evidence shows that cotton fibres of the genus Gossypium were first used for textile production at Mehrgarh, Pakistan in the Neolithic period ($6^{th}$ millenium BC). Eventually the cotton plant and textiles found their way to Egypt and through there, to Greece. However, the chronological origins of the cultivation and/or use of cotton fibres in textile production in ancient Greece are ambiguous. The main sources of information are ancient written texts and excavated textile finds. Both indicate that the introduction of cotton in Greece can be placed in the mid-first millenium BC. However, it is not clear whether the cultivation of the plant and consequently the production of cotton textiles was established in that period or whether another cotton species was produced and used locally in Greece or whether isolated examples of cotton textiles had been imported in Greece before the cotton plant. A more comprehensive analytical study of surviving textile finds coupled with archaeological research for plant production and cultivation would provide the answer to these questions.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.329-334
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• 2014

A scientific analysis of ancient textiles provides significant data to understand weaving techniques and culture of textiles in each region and charateristics of materials used at that time. In addition, species identification of waterlogged wooden objects is a scientific analysis method that allow us to verify information of relation of foreign species trade and exchange, of preferable species through kinds of wooden products, and of forest environment as well as method setting of conservation. As a result of a species analysis about historical textiles and a wooden comb in a bronze bowl that were excavated from Hapgang-ri, Dong-Myun, Yungi-gun, Chungcheongnam-do, Textile1 and Textile3 are identified as Urticacese Boehmeri nivea ; ramie, Textie2 is identified as Malvaceae Gossypium herbaceum, and a wooden comb is identified as Betulaceae Betula spp. It is expected that this result will help to make further comparative studies, identifying species of textiles and trees of ancient times.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.6 s.165
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• pp.859-868
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• 2007

Degradation products of the dye extracted from turmeric and the turmeric dyed textiles were examined by using GC-MS after 100 oven (OV) and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$(PER) treatments for up to 28 days. Throughout the OV degradation times, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)- was found consistently, while isovanillin, and vanillic acid were newly detected. In 28 day PER degradation sample, feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, benzoic acid, and vanillic acid were detected as well as isovanillin. Feruloylrnethane, and 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)- were detected from the degraded fabric samples. With the absence of curcuminoids in the GC-MS result, the decreasing pattern of 2-propenoic acid, 3-(2-hydrokyphenyl)- reflect the degradation of curcuminoids in turmeric extraction with the progression of OV degradation times. It is suggested that isovanillin, feruloylmethane, 2-propenoic acid,3-(2-hydroxyphenyl)-, and vanillic acid are the probable fingerprint products for determining the turmeric dye from the badly faded archaeological textiles.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.91-116
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• 2021

India has had a rich and diverse textile tradition since the 3rd millennium BCE. The origin of Indian textiles can be traced back to the Harappan period. Owing to the hot and humid climate in most parts of India, cotton has remained India's favourite choice of fabric for normal use. Thus, India is supposed to be the first nation to have grown, woven, and patterned cotton fabrics. Moreover, India is one of the leading cotton-growing countries in the world. The earliest occurrence of cotton thread in India is roughly datable to 4000 BCE and of dyed fabrics to about 2500 BCE. Large numbers of needles and spindle-whorls found in Harappa and other early historic sites in India reveal the prosperous state of textile production and its trade in the early period. The textile producers used a wide range of skills to process raw materials and make regionally idiosyncratic dyes, weaves, prints, and embroideries. Additionally, the silk from wild indigenous forms of silkworms was known in the Indian sub-continent roughly contemporary with the earliest clear archaeological evidence for silk in China. The analysis of thread fragments found inside a copper bangle and ornament from Harappa and steatite beads from Chanhu-daro, have yielded silk fibers dating to 2500-2000 BCE. Apart from other products, cotton and silk textiles were important export materials from India right from the Harappan period. Actually, the sea-borne trade had played an important role in the economic growth and prosperity of the Harappan civilization. Several ancient seaports in the entire coastline of India played a vital role in the maritime trade during the Harappan period and cotton and silk textiles of Indian origin have been found in various countries. The contemporary writings and epigraphy have also attested to the vast maritime trade network of India and the export of textile materials. The paper discusses in detail the origin and development of cotton and silk textile production in India through the ages and its role in maritime trade networks.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 2009

This paper introduces the probable regional and long distance trade of cotton goods among the pre-Hispanic Mesoamericans during the Classic (A.D. 200-900) period through the comparison of the available documentary sources. Based on the ethnohistoric data and the archaeological evidences it was found that cotton was used throughout the Mesoamerica by the elite ruling class. However, because cotton could not be grown at elevations above 6,000 feet it was obvious that nations such as Teotihuacan which flourished in the highland of present day Mexico City had to import cotton from the tropical coastal hotlands either through trade or tribute. Several ethnohistorical and archaeological data suggest that urban center in highland Mexico had people employed in weaving the textiles rather than cultivating or spinning cotton. Archaeological evidences such as the workshops used by the craft specialists seemed to be associated with weaving of cotton. Because of the similarity in climatic conditions for marine shells and cotton cultivation, Kolb's model seems to be applicable to the cotton trade of the classic Teotihuacan. Based on Kolb's model, it could be hypothesized that Teotihuacan-Kaminaljyyu-Maya was the indirect trade route connecting the Basin of Mexico and the Mayan regions.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.5 no.2 s.6
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• pp.45-50
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• 1996

Silk fibers excavated at Fujinoki mounted tomb, Shimoikeyana mounted tomb and Kuriyama site were examined using FT-IR microscope and two peaks called amide I and II present in modern silk fibers were compared with those of excavated fibers. It was found that amide ground in a polymer molecule decreased with the progress of degradation and peak intensity of amide group in infrared spectrum decreased correspondingly. The advantages of FT-IR microscopy for the analysis of organic remains in archaeological view point were evaluated and it was concluded that the systematic investigation of spectral change due to the degradation of respective material is essential.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.129-135
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• 2018

Scientific investigation of cultural heritage can provide important information to understand the context of the object. To know the characteristics of the material is also an essential part of objects management and conservation. However, the identification and characterization of organic dyes used in archaeological and historical textiles are often limited by the restrictions in sampling. To cope with the difficulties, applications of high-performance techniques of surface analysis, such as Time of Flight-Secondary Ion Mass Spectra (TOF-SIMS) could be considered as a non or micro-destructive option. This study aims to examine the applicability of TOF-SIMS analysis to the detection of organic dyes from historical textiles. A group of silk fabrics dyed with vegetable dyes were artificially photo-aged to different degrees and analyzed with TOF-SIMS. Molecular and fragment ions from indigo were successfully detected from the aged samples; however, only some fragment ions were observed from gardenia and safflower dyed fabrics. Further studies with actual historical samples with extended examination scope would be necessary to assess the validity of this technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.49
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• pp.49-63
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• 1999

This research utilized the Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy(EDS) and the Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry in the analysis of chemical elements present among the textiles exhumed from Kupori Hwasung-kun Kyunggi-do. The two research objectives were: first to examine the elements present and their percent presence in Kupori samples: second to investigate whether the elements are part of mordant substances which could have been used when dyeing the KUpori textiles in the past. To meet such research purposes standard silk fabric was dyed with Sophorajaponica using alum and iron mordants. For alum mordant unpurified general alum and potassium aluminum sulfate(AlK(SO4)2). iron sulfate(FeSO4·7H2O) were used, From the results of EDS and ICP-Mass analysis the following conclusions were drawn. 1 According to the EDS analysis 9 elements Ca, S, Al, Si, K, Fe, P, Mg and Na were detected. 2. ICP-Mass result of the mordant chemicas showed high amount of A, Al and k present in alum mordants and S and Fe present in iron mordants. 3. Comparison of the ICP-Mass results of the mordant chemicals and those of the standard dyed samples suggested that the amount presence of Al and Fe is a strong indication of the usage of alum and iron mordants respecticely in an unknown dyed textile. 4, In the washed Kupori textiles Fe showed a relatively higher rate of presence in the samples Therefore it can be conjectured that those Kupori textiles were dyed with iron mordant based on the result of the above number 3. 5. It is probable that the other elements detected from the Kupori samples were incorporated into the textiles as part of the soil debris produced from the degradation of the dead within the coffin or the earth debris. They can also be part of the inorganic compounds inherent in the silk textiles themselves before dyed. 6. Among the elements it is likely that Ca which showed a high degree of presence among the unwashed samples was part of the inorganic compound inferent in the silk textiles.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.53-82
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• 2022

The Hebrew word for silk, meshi, is mentioned in the Bible only once and there is a possibility that the item to which it referred was made of local wild silk. Although Jewish historical sources from the Roman and Byzantine periods mention silk many times, only a few silk textiles have been discovered at a sited dated to the Byzantine period (4^th-7^th centuries CE). The word "silk" occurs in the New Testament, although only once. A turning point in the history of the Negev (Southern Israel) occurred around 400 CE when it underwent a period of prosperity related to the advent of Christianity and pilgrimage, which enabled the purchase of imported silk textiles. The Early Islamic period (7-8th centuries CE) yielded four (out of 310) silk textiles from Nahal 'Omer on the Spice Routes joining Petra, in the Edom Mountains of modern Jordan, and the mercantile outlets on the Mediterranean Sea, notably Gaza and El Arish. The most important silk textile assemblage in the Southern Levant was found near Jericho at Qarantal Cave 38 and dates to the medieval period (9th-13th centuries CE). Linen textiles decorated with silk tapestry originating in Egypt date back to the 10-11th centuries CE. Mulham textiles - silk warp with hidden cotton wefts - were discovered in the medieval fortress on Jazirat Fara'un (Coral Island) in the Red Sea, 14 kilometers south of Elat and today located in Egypt. Mulham is mentioned in literary sources of the ninth century in Iraq and Iran, whence it spread through the Islamic world. The article will present aspects of the origin, transmission, and exchange of these textiles.