• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.34-45
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• 2008

This research was designed to find decision factors through color assortment planning process by Korean women's clothing merchandisers and to look for if there exists difference with American women's clothing merchandisers. A merchandise assortment is a collection of various quantities of styles, colors, sizes, and prices of related merchandise, usually grouped under one classification within a department. The subjects were 20 women's clothing merchandisers who work for clothing retail stores from 5 to 22 years in US and Korea. The authoring process was done for qualitative data analysis. The decision factors of color assortment planning were identified with four stages; information search, qualitative evaluation, quantitative evaluation, and selection. There were differences of color assortment decision factors due to different business types, business sizes, fashion-ability, sourcing ways, and merchandise turnover. Noticeable color assortment decision factor differences caused by country difference were not found except considering the target market ethnicity and skin color in US market. Korea merchandisers seem to be more sensitive to present sales data usages and spot order availability in color assortments because of more local production use than American merchandisers.

• Journal of East-Asian Urban History
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.297-308
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• 2020

Canberra, the capital city of Australia, has been known as an example of the international Garden City movement, which started by an Englishman Ebenezer Howard in the late 19^th Century. As a new capital site, Canberra was designed by an American architect Walter Burley Griffin, the winner of the world-wide competition for a federal capital in 1912. However, a closer look at the early history of Canberra would reveal that the popular understanding of her as a Garden City was somewhat exaggerated and distorted. Griffin's ideas of the new capital strongly suggest that he was influenced by City Beautiful, an American urban planning trend. Also, Griffin's original plan for Canberra was never fully appreciated nor realized, as many objections and difficulties arisen. Furthermore, Australian understanding of 'Garden City' evolved to more inclusive and overlapping idea of greener and less condensed towns in general.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• 영어영문학
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.753-782
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• 2012

This paper attempts to look at how the question of cultural identity can be discussed in terms of which "a family of the minds" as a unit can be given meaningful form of interpretation. I found its real possibility in the James family, especially in Henry James Senior, William James, and Henry James Junior since they represent important cultural context reflecting their European relationship in terms of American cultural consciousness. This research is divided in two parts; the first part of this study consisted of the elder James's role as a source of moral aesthetic consciousness for the two children, the second part consisted of showing different aspects of inter-relationships between father and sons and between brothers in the process of identity construction. I examine different aspects of the identity formation process of William James and Henry James Junior by arguing different ways of making relationship with their father's philosophy to illuminate how they reflect and represent American cultural consciousness, and to define the meaning of the Jamesian mind in American cultural history.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.727-738
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• 1994

It has been representing the delicate changes which express new sentiments through the floating, fluid, free look with the transparent, sheer material in fashion during the early 1990's. The concept of lightness is selected to describe the phenomenon of recent fashion. The purpose of this study is to identify the distinctive characteristics of lightness as external forms and internal meaning in fashion of the early 1990's. The data were collected from fashion magazines such as American Vogue, Italian Vogue from 1987 to 1994. The characteristics of lightness of fashion in the early 1990's are as follows; The external forms are consisted of the material such as the transparent, sheer, soft material, of slim and bell silhouette which occupying the more space in bottom, of the drapery, pleats to shape the unfitted look and is identified as the open, whole, indeterminate and planar intergration form according to the category of clothing form suggested by Belong. It is also the reflection of the social changes which is getting out of the modernity. It is the results of the dominant social state which are diffused the sensual pleasures, transitoriness.

• 복식
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• 제61권10호
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

• 안보군사학연구
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• 통권2호
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• pp.165-200
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• 2004

A look back at the history of war reveals that leaders/nations which were able to recognize beforehand the change in weaponary or the concept of implementing war achieved victory in war(battle) while those that were not able to do so lost. Along with the development of civilization, so too did the characteristics of war : from the first wave of war (ancient, Napoleon's war)$\rightarrow$ the second wave of war (The first and second World War) $\rightarrow$ to the third wave of war (The Gulf War, and the War in Iraq). Especially notable was the American led victory earned in the Afghanistan and Iraq wars which applied the Rapid Decisive Operations(RDO) concept according to the Effects Based Operations(EBO) following the Gulf War and 9.11. This is the time when methods of warfare is changing through development in military science technology and military innovation and when the change of the defense paradigm including those of the Korea - U.S. alliance is required. We should therefore prepare for the future by delving into the analysis of American Modern warfare and learn from it.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.163-189
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• 2017

The mourning and grief practice richly registered in Shakespeare's Hamlet is one of the abiding themes that critics have been fascinated with. This paper attempts to take a fresh look at the issue by building its arguments on Benjamin's insight that the modern art (mechanically) reproducing the exhibition value brings about the destruction of the ritual value and favors the conditions of melancholy. Instead of taking for granted that Hamlet's performance of grief is fundamentally different from those of other characters such as Gertrude, Ophelia, and Laertes, this paper argues that Hamlet's performance comes to be recognized masculine and different from others, only because he presents himself to be so through his theatrical performance as well as his princely power that the subjects (others in the story) ought to ascribe to. To prove this point, this paper closely analyzes Hamlet's rhetorics and the ways he constructs his mourning self, which is emblematic of the shift in art history that Benjamin has characterized with the terms of "ritual value" and "exhibition value." In conclusion, this paper suggests that Shakespeare's Hamlet marks the change of the historical horizon, a permanent removal from the past in which the ritual value had been once protected, pushing us to a new age to live with melancholy and the disconnection from things and their muted language.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권1호
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• pp.107-128
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• 2017

Gaines depicts the process of transformation of a black young who accepts his execution with dignity in A Lesson Before Dying. There two personas of the protagonist, Jefferson, appear in this novel. The former seen in the black and white community is the persona of falsehood and submission, and the latter appeared in the black community is the true persona. The former, the pig persona in black-and-white community is created, forced onto them by whites and the human persona in the black community is made by their own standards without being forced. Jefferson has been depersonalized by his pig persona. He implements their false persona by mimicking pigs to confront its reality. And then he retrospects the pleasure of relationship throughout his own life. Grant's expensive gift, the radio, becomes a trigger to realize the significance of his existence and the social solidarity. Moreover, many black visitors look at him with expectant eyes of fulfilling their historical burden. After all, Jefferson is executed as a human being with dignity, and the transformation of Jefferson from a pig to a human is getting rid of the white values and standing on the black values. In other words, it is the procedure of creating the new myth out of the false myth, from meaningless life to meaningful death.

• 영미문화
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.1-27
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• 2017

My aim in this paper is to provide a clear view of Victorian gender ideology and highlight the role played by Browning's dramatic monologues in the challenge against the strict patriarchal codes of the era. Laura Mulvey's Male Gaze theory in cinema is especially useful for understanding Browning's most well-known dramatic monologues, "Porphyria's Lover," and "My Last Duchess," because these poems are structured by polarities of looking and being looked at, the active and the passive. In her 1975 essay "Visual Pleasure and Narrative Cinema", Mulvey introduced the second-wave feminist concept of "male gaze" as a feature of gender power asymmetry in film. To gaze implies more than to look at – it signifies a psychological relationship of power, in which the gazer is superior to the object of the gaze. She declares that in patriarchal society pleasure in looking has been split between active/male and passive/female. Browning's women are subject to the male gaze, but they refuse to become the objects of a scopophilic pleasure-in-looking. Porphyria and the Duchess don't exist in order to satisfy the desires and pleasures of men. They reveal themselves as an autonomous being - reserved in Victorian gender dynamics for men. Mulvey advocates 'an alternative cinema' which can challenges the male-dominated Hollywood ideology. It is possible to say that Browning's dramatic monologues correspond to Mulvey's 'alternative cinema' because they show a counterview in terms of the representation of woman against the Victorian patriarchal ideology.