• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.36 no.10
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• pp.119-130
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• 1998

This is on the dance costume of ancient Greece. The present study classified the characteristics of Greek dance and dance costume according to the silhouette, quality of material, color and ornaments. Materials of the study are the pictures and figures presented in literatures, sculptures, crockeries, murals, coins. The dances of Greece can be classified into religious dance, educational dance, recreational dance, dramatic dance and various forms of dance on each dances were developed. Especially, it is the greatest character that Greeks gave dances educational value and created composit art including song, lines and dance. As dance costume, Himation, Chiton, Chlamys which Greeks generally wore were widely worn. Also, the beauty of dance costume was maximized by the changes of basic costumes and development of various ways of wearing. Especially, professional dancers wore costumes shorter than knee-length ones forming a A-line silhouette different from a cylindrical one. Thin cloth revealing body silhouette such as fiax hemp, linen, silk were used as materials of dance costumes. As for colors, white was mainly used, But orange, blue and green were used, too. They wore band, scarf, bonnet on the head and seldom used any ornaments except for fibula. They wore the same sandals which Greeks wore, Crepis, front-heeled shoes which is thought to be the origin of modern ballet shoes for the technique of toe in dance. As mentioned above, as the dance costume of Greece were mainly worn as the similar forms of the dance costume of Greeks, various forms of costumes were worn with the development of dance and bold ways of wearing and silhouette were developed unlike the costume of common people.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.29-39
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• 2011

The purpose of this study provides a high consumer-oriented wedding dress on the consumer and offering the consumer-oriented product and provide a basis data to develop a wedding shops so it can stable and manage of effective marketing. Wedding shop for a survey of consumer preference, and based on this wedding dress designed and made. The results are summarized as follows. First, when wearing wedding dresses and "graceful and feminine" image that seek to pursue an image that showed the highest response, "simple and stylish", "cute and vivid" image was in order. In the survey of wedding dress preference, lace is preferred, in tone of color white is preferred by and large. In silhouette, A-line is preferred most, in neckline, exposure of the shoulder, in sleeve length, sleeveless, in decoration, beads. Second, on the basis of these results, depending on the image to pursue the design, wedding was made of 3 creations. The work I is a target of the early 20s, the concept "simple and stylish", and A-line is adopted in silhouette focusing on modern simplicity, soft satin material used of high class. The work II is a target of the late 20s, the concept "cut and vivid", and fit-and-flare made of many folded tulle mesh material. The work ill is a target of the 30s overall, the concept "graceful and feminine", and high-waist- empire-line is adopted in silhouette, splendid lace material used, is of the gorgeous and mature beauty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.14-28
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• 2014

This study analyzed the group of experts who were related to cubism, selected among the works of 2010~2013 Paris Collection based on F.G.R.(Focus Group Research). According to the results of this study, there were appeared first, 'a one-piece dress' second, 'H silhouette' third, 'cotton', in case of item distribution and frequency. The analysis was done by using the manner of expression, cubical expression, exaggeration, distortion, dismantlement, geometrical division of face, mix-match look, wraparound repetition, asymmetric structure, etc. Based on the outcomes of the analysis on figurative design elements, this study adjusted three manners appearing on cubism fashion style. First, it was 'avant garde manner' of constitution or 'dismantlement' which was compiled into multi-view representations of overlaps and viewpoints by repetitive use of color tone trimming detail. Second, it was 'geomagnetic block placement' which expresses cubism with geometric partitioning of surface and separation of panel by cutting disintegration. Finally, it was 'distortion and simplification of silhouette' which is a distortion created by constitution-line pressed thin with silhouette. It maximizes the beauty of human body outline, which was distorted by three-dimensional-manipulation, and simplified by ellipsis for another shape for the extension or expansion of detail trimming.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.3
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• pp.117-130
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the 'sexy look' of the Paris Haute Couture evening dresses of the past 10 years from 2005 to 2014. The results are as follows: According to the occurrence frequency analysis of the fashion images of sexy look evening dress, the type of sexy look that appeared the most is the romantic sexy look, followed by erotic sexy look, ethnic sexy look, minimal sexy look and avant-garde sexy, respectively. According to the design component-specific analysis of evening dress for each Haute Couture house, 7 Haute Couture houses have used H-line silhouette over the past 10 years, each H-line silhouette being different. In terms of material, Valentino, Elie Saab, Givenchy, Chanel and Dior have shown a trend of favoring see-through material, Gaultier and Armani showed a lot to combine different materials. In terms of color, Valentino, Chanel, Dior, Gaultier, Armani have shown a general trend in the last 10 years to express sexy look by using attractive and mystical black tones, Elie Saab has shown skin color a lot by using brown family colors and Givenchy has used white family colors. According to the design components analysis for each sexy look fashion image, the H-line silhouette showed the most frequency to represent sexy looks. In terms of material, avant-garde sexy look, ethnic sexy look and minimal sexy look showed a lot to combine different materials to express sexy looks, but erotic sexy look and romantic sexy look are characterized by using thin see-through material. As for the color, black series has been most represented in the last 10 years for the Haute Couture evening dress sexy look.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.838-847
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• 2011

The object of this study is as follows. First, according to the silhouette of clothes, I will search the relationship with the embroidery design. Second, I will investigate the relation of coloration about the clothes color and embroidery color. Third, I will search the relation with the image in clothes and embroidery design characteristic. The data acquisition is selected to the total 447 pictures of embroidery clothing design from the www.style.com, www.samsungdesign.net which are the related information site. The data are limited from S/S season in 2004 till F/W season in 2008 in the Paris, Milano, and New York collection. The analytical method was made through the analyze method and statistical method. First, on the relation with the clothes silhouette and embroidery design, if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the X-shaped or A-line silhouette in the one-piece and dress, the image which is elegant and feminine can be expressed. if the satin stitch technique is utilized as the H-line silhouette in jacket and court, the mannish image can be expressed. Second, the embroidery color showed up as the contrast combination of the monotone when the clothes color was the monochrome. And the embroidery color showed up as the tone in which is bright and sober when clothes color had 2 or 3 or 4. So, if the embroidery color is utilized as the similar color scheme, it will be effective. Third, if the embroidery technique of the one-piece and dress is utilized as the the satin stitch technique and the bloom and leaf motive being stylized pattern is used in the all-over and border pattern, It will be effective to express the romantic/feminine, ethnic/folklore, active, and classic image.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.381-393
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• 2007

This study was intended to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look of the Milan collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged concretely in the later 20th century. A total of 334 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, it was found that the straight line was the most preferred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing the bisexual image of the military look. Third, in the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was reflected in the military look. Finally, in terms of the item of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.137-151
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• 2007

This study was aimed to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look designs of the Paris collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged in the later 20th century. A total of 267 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, the straight line was the most referred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing he bisexual image of the military look. Third, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was effected in the military look. Finally, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.207-220
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• 2006

The purpose of the study is to develop the basic pattern of casual jacket for men aged between 25 and 34. Compared to the tailored jackets, casual jackets are designed much more diverse form depending on the target customer, price range and moreover fashion trend. Therefore in order to reduce the cost and time of developing new style, pattern draft from the basic pattern is better approach rather than develop each style form the measurements every time. For men's casual jacket pattern draft, the basic pattern of fit and comfort was developed through following research procedures. 173 men were surveyed about their habit of buying and wearing of casual jackets. MDs and pattern designers of 10 casual wear brands for men were interviewed. As a starting point, 3 different basic patterns were selected. 2 patterns were from the 2 interviewed brands and the last one was the pattern of ESMOD. The 3 patterns were studied by means of comparing measurements and general styling. As a results it was found that the pattern of S brand is featuring I silhouette, the pattern of K brand is featuring H silhouette and the pattern of ESMOD is featuring Y silhouette. The results of wearing test showed that the pattern of S brand is the best among the three. They were to add ease around the chest line and waist line, to relocate the waist line and the break point, to increase the jacket length and upper arm width. The improved pattern was made of polyester for the wearing test. The wearing test showed developed pattern was improved significantly. To verify the use of developed basic pattern, two buttoned single jacket was made.