• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.93-106
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• 2023

The study is to develop and present a leggings pattern that is suitable for the human body by using a standard body type avatar for a female in her 30s. As a research method, the average body type was selected from adult women in their 30s, and the appearance was evaluated using the CLO software program. The data analysis of this study compared the dimensions and shape of each part by legging. The leggings pattern suggested based on the above research results was determine to be a total length of 80.6cm and hip length of 24cm, and the knee length was set by dividing the legging in half from the waist to the hem and then adding 5cm. These figures were evaluated higher than Company D in terms of the adequacy of the upper part of the front and rear plates of Company A as well as the adequacy of the knee lines. Company A's figures were applied and corrected. For the front plate, the waist circumference was divided by 4, and 3.5cm was removed, and the hip circumference was set by dividing the hip circumference by 4, and 3.8cm was removed. In the appearance evaluation results Company D was highly evaluated in the suitability evaluation of the waist and hips, and the waist and hips were set using the pattern of Company D. The length of the front panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 4 and adding 1.8cm to the length, and the length of the back panel was modified by dividing the hip circumference by 3 and adding 8cm after dividing the hip circumference by 0.8cm.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.403-415
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• 2012

This study did a comparative analysis on the patterns of several male bodice slopers, followed by evaluating the appearance through a virtual garment simulation, which used a three-dimensional virtual garment system. Through this process, this study attempted to comparatively analyze the suitability of the garment or each sloper according to body parts. The analysis of the drawing formulas of bodices slopers had the following results. With a standard chest size, all six slopers had a 1:4 ratio for a front and back chest size; 1:5 or 1:6 for a front and back breast size 1:5 or 1:4 for a neck base circumference; and 1:20 or 1:12 for the chest size. When comparing the anthropometric figures and the actual measurements of each body part for the bodice slopers, the actual measurements secured extra amounts in the drawing process. The evaluation results for appearance of the six men's bodice slopers showed that the slopers used by companies (E and F) had top scores followed by the slopers made for (C and D), while the sloper for education (A) received the lowest scores. Regarding the results of the variance analysis verifying the significant difference between the slopers, twenty-five items had significant differences with the exception of four items on the front side and one item on the backside.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.5
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• pp.62-73
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• 2015

The aim of this research is to propose the final shirt design modified for new senior women that fulfills their emotional and physical needs. The modifications were based on the results of in-depth interviews and literature search, and the study was conducted in order to understand the desires and preferences of senior women, as consumption of outdoor-wear by the group continues to increase. To develop the design of outdoor-wear that satisfies the physical and emotional qualities and preference of the new senior women, six different designs with lines, combined materials, as well as materials that were layered, pleated and draped were proposed using virtual-dressing simulation software. Then, the modified designs were derived from the six original designs by reflecting the opinions collected in the in-depth interviews with eleven women in their 50s. The responses in the interviewed showed a preference for lines, pleats and layers, as these features made the clothes look trendy, gave it a slender-look, and improved the body shape of the women. As the color is the critical factor for outdoor-wear, there was an overwhelming preference for primary colors by the women, which was in contrast to their color preference in general clothes. A sleeve design modification was proposed to convert the half-sleeves to 3/4-long sleeves in order to account for changes in body temperature at menopause, and to satisfy the aesthetic needs for covering wrinkles. Research of new senior outdoor-wear designs will help segment and differentiate strategies for the increasingly fierce competing outdoor market, as well as l provide directions in the design creation process using the simulation of 3D virtual model.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.189-202
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• 2019

This study develops a bodice pattern for high school girls aged 17 to 19 that use virtual garment simulation. The study developed a bodice pattern based on the fit evaluation result for two selected bodice patterns. The basic formula of the design method based on the result of 3 times of fit evaluation is as follows: waist back $length=stature/8{\times}1.85cm$, waist front length=waist back length+bust/40+0.7cm, front bust girth=bust/2+4cm, back bust girth=Chest/2+3cm, armscye depth=Chest/4+0.5cm, back interscye length=bishoulder length -1.2cm, front interscye length=back interscye length -1.2cm, front neck width=back neck width -0.3cm. The developed bodice pattern used Bishoulder Length as a criteria for the calculation formula of back interscye length, and back interscye length as a criteria for the calculation formula of front interscye length. The fit evaluation showed the relevance of the bishoulder length, front interscye length, and back interscye length based on a comparison of the calculated figure. A bodice pattern with great body suitability and fitness to high school girls was developed through 3D virtual garment simulation that calculated the application of body proportion to width. This study only analyzed the evaluation result of a virtual model only in a representative form; however, a pattern study is also proposed to compare and analyze the design methods of patterns by body type.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-178
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• 2014

In America, where obesity rate ranks no.1 in the world, the plus size market is rapidly expanding with various American brands adding plus size lines in a way to diversify their products. As obesity is expanding throughout the younger generation, the necessity to develop products according to different characteristics of body shape that can fulfill the needs of young plus size consumers is being emphasized. In this study of young plus size, our focus is on providing wider spectrum of design choices for consumers by analyzing different body shapes, categorizing them, and then identifying the differences of design among them. More specifically, the object of this study is to analyze the elements that differentiate the designs from each other by virtually trying out the same item on avatars of various body shapes. Thus, we can identify the elements that needs to be differentiated according to different body shapes after implementing virtual fitting program on plus size shapes that are rather difficult considering the reality of domestic fashion companies. In this way, we are able to provide fundamental data for American plus size fashion market and design development for Korean fashion companies that are under way of entering or planning to enter the American market. Furthermore, this will demonstrate the actual details of the designs that will eventually help the development of specialized product for the globalization of Korean fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.46-60
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• 2008

Lyocell is a regenerated cellulosic fiber manufactured by an environmentally friendly process. The major advantages of lyocell are the excellent drape forming property, the genuine bulkiness, smooth surface, and high dry/wet tenacities. However, one drawback of lyocell is its fibrillation property, which would degrade its aesthetic quality and lower the consumer satisfaction. In our previous studies, lyocell was treated with epichlorohydrin, a non-formalin based crosslinker, to reduce its fibrillation tendency. To investigate the changes of physical properties upon ECH-treatment, the hand characteristics of ECH-treated fabric were observed using KES-FB system and the 3D-virtual sewing image of the fabrics were obtained using 3D CAD simulation system in this study. Since epichlorohydrin(ECH) treatment was conducted in the alkaline medium, the weight reduction was observed in all treated lyocell. The treated lyocell became light, smooth and flexible in spite of ECH crosslinker application. LT and RT in tensile property upon the ECH treatment did not change significantly, however, EMT and WT in the tensile property increased. The significant decrease in bending rigidity was resulted in all ECH-treated lyocell, which is the result of the weight loss upon the alkali condition of ECH treatment. The bending rigidity increased again in the ECH 30% treated lyocell, however, the B value is still lower than the original. Therefore, the ECH-treated lyocell would be more stretchable and softer than the original. Shear rigidity was also decreased in all ECH-treated lyocell, which would result in more drape and body fitting when it is made as a garment. The ECH-treated fabric showed the softer smoother surface according to SMD value from KES evaluation. The virtual 3D sewing image of the ECH-treated lyocell did not show a significant change from that of the original except ECH 30% treated lyocell. ECH 30% treated lyocell showed a stiffer and more puckered image than the original.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.47 no.2
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• pp.111-123
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• 2009

This study is to explore the usability of a pattern making software 'Looks tailor X' developed recently by the Digital Fashion in line with the cloth simulation software 'DressingSim'. When the software engineers develop software for clothes and clothing simulations, most often they lose touch of real-world craftsmanship of pattern making. As such, the software evaluation of the functionality and the usability is a crucial step in the field of virtual clothing. We carried out a detailed evaluation of the software via the process of making some basic types of pattern including tight skirts, pants, jackets, and one-piece dress. In this paper, we documented a step-by-step scenarios of making clothes using the Looks tailor X, and listed both the advantages and limitations of the software from the perspective of an enduser, i.e., a professional fashion designer. We also briefed suggestions on the refinement of the future software in the field.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.15-32
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• 2024

Modern fashion manifests in forms that mirror the diverse lifestyles and personalities of consumers. It transcends mere aesthetic designs and embodyies practicality. There is a preference for comfortable, highly functional attire, leaning towards easy wear. Casual wear, in particular, embraces a sense of freedom not found in standard business attire. It seeks a comfortable, natural silhouette through tactile fabrics rather than sportswear. Loose, drop shoulder sleeves enhance comfort and mobility and often become key elements in casual wear designs. Given that clothing must balance aesthetics with functionality, especially across various activities, it is natural to prioritize functional design. Research on patterns suited for dynamic conditions is imperative. The rise of drop shoulder styles necessitates the development of corresponding sleeve patterns. It is crucial to differentiate pattern drafting methods due to the resulting silhouette variations. This study aims to categorize drop shoulder pattern drafting techniques based on shoulder extension and angle dimensions. Each method will be examined, and drop shoulder sleeve patterns and wear forms will be studied using a 3D virtual system. This research holds significance in providing valuable insights and foundational data for designing diverse drop shoulder sleeve patterns, contributing to their practical development and advancement.