• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.12
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• pp.1694-1700
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• 2002

본 연구는 염색 과정 중에 발생하는 수질오염을 줄이고 또한 홀치기 염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못한 다색 의 사용을 가능케 함으로써 새로운 느낌 의 홀치기 문양 표현과 3D 모델링을 통하여 텍스타일디자인이 상품화 되었을 때의 효과를 CAD를 이용하여 살펴보고자 한 것이다. 연구방법으로는 가장 일반적인 실로 묶기, 전통적인 손바느질 느낌이 나는 시침질, 현대적 느낌이 강한 깡통에 의한 묶기와 기하학적 효과가 나는 접기 등의 홀치기염색 기법으로 수작업 한 다음 CAD를 이용하였다 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 홀치기염색기법에 의해 제작된 패턴을 모티브로 하여 수작업에서 얻지 못하는 다색사용가능성이 주메뉴의 색정리, 색4전개, 색 바꾸기를 사용함으로써 가능하였다 둘째, 다양한 색을 얻기 위해서 홀치기염색의 수작업에서는 상당한 시간과 노력을 필요로 하지 만 CAD를 사용함으로써 이러한 작업 이 몇 가지 메뉴의 사용으로 짧은 시간 내에 쉽게 이루어질 수 있었다. 셋째, CAD를 통한 홀치기 염색패턴의 새로운 이미지 효과를 얻기 위해 Solarize와 Intensity Direct, Effect/Emboss를 사용함으로써 다양한 질감과 새로운 이 미지 의 홀치기염색패턴을 얻을 수 있었다. 넷째, 위의 작업 과정을 통하여 수작업에서 발생 하는 수질오염을 줄일 수 있었다. 다섯째, 이상에서 얻어진 염색패턴을 3D모델링을 통하여 상품의 제작과정과 소비자에게 착용되었을 때의 효과를 미리 볼 수 있음으로 인해서 생산자의 실패율을 줄여줄 수 있을 것으로 본다 여섯째, CAD를 이용한 이러한 일련의 과정들이 텍스타일산업 분야에 충분히 기여 할 수 있을 것으로 기대 된다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.333-345
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• 2022

This study developed and evaluated the motion control of 3D printed fingers applied to smart gloves. Four motions were programmed by assembling the module using the Arduino program: cylindrical grasping, spherical grasping, tip-to-tip pinch gripping, and three-jaw pinch gripping. Cap and re-entrant (RE) strip types were designed to model the finger. Two types of modeling were printed using filaments of thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). The prepared samples were evaluated using three types of pens for cylidrical grasping, three types of balls for spherical grasping, and two types of cards for tip-to-tip pinch gripping and three-jaw pinch gripping. The motion control of fingers was connected using five servo motors to the number of each control board. Cylindrical and spherical grasping were moved by controlling the fingers at 180° and 150°, respectively. Pinch gripping was controlled using a tip-to-tip pinch motion controlled by the thumb at 30° and index-middle at 0° besides a three-jaw pinch motion controlled by the thumb-index finger-middle at 30°, 0°, and 0°, respectively. As a result of the functional evaluation, the TPE of 3D-printed fingers was more flexible than those of TPU. RE strip type of 3D-printed fingers was more suitable for the motion control of fingers than the 3D-printed finger.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.81-90
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• 2020

In this paper, we propose setting measurement point in the 3D scan data based on the manual measurement data. The optimal 3D body scan postures and measurement points for automatic measurement of breast were set up. The outer breast point may be different depending on the body shape or standing posture as it is on the line connected from the bisecting point of the lateral waist thickness to front armpit point. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the breast-related outer point proposed in this study. And many researches need to reduce the differences between MAM and 3D dimension items associated with the upper breast point. When measuring depth, the difference by pressing in MAM should be taken into account. And the differences in flexion depending on breast type can make a difference in the 3D measurement. So the measurement method in 3D scan should be further studied depending on the types of breast and verified by multiple subjects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.8
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• pp.1233-1241
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• 2010

This study analyzes the body characteristics of high school boys according to 3 different body types in order to improve the fit of upper garments. First, among the lateral body types, the straight body type was selected from the SizeKorea 3D scanned data and 2D measurement data. Second, high school boys (classified as straight lateral body type) were grouped into type B, A, and Y drop groups. The percentages of type B, type A, type Y are 17.8%, 48.1%, 32.1% respectively. The characteristics of the body types were analyzed. While the bust circumference were the same among the three body types (chest width, back width, back across shoulder, and bust width did not show a significant difference); however, waist and hip measurements showed a significant difference among the three body types. Third, the height of the high school boys ranged between 165cm and 180cm and the bust circumference between 85cm and 97cm. For the bust size categories, type B and type Y are distributed similarly; however, type A is distributed in the smaller bust size categories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.923-949
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• 2020

Improving work efficiency and satisfying customers through personalized services is becoming more important in an increasingly competitive hair industry. Wearables may help to improve hair designers' work efficiency and customer satisfaction by analyzing customer and hair designers' conditions and provide hair stylingrelated data. However, there is limited research on developing wearables for hair designers (WHDs), and many existing wearables were developed without understanding user needs and perceptions. This research investigated preferences, perceptions, and intentions on WHDs based on hair designers in the U.S., which is the largest hair market. Specific design options that hair designers preferred and possible options to meet requirements that hair designers expect for wearables were identified and suggested in WHD design guidelines. Second, most people preferred a WHD design of a black-colored bracelet/watch that can be a necklace designed with preferred functions; in addition, 3D virtual images and 3D printed models were prototyped. Third, developed designs were evaluated. More than 70% of users were satisfied and considered it as useful and easy to use, with an intention to purchase. The results are expected to provide insights to designers when developing WHDs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.353-360
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• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.87-93
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• 2020

This study provide basic data to develop a dress form reflecting body shape characteristics by age and to produce a 3D body form in a virtual fitting program. A comparative analysis was conducted on the size, section shape, and slope of side shape of the modeling form by the sizing of the basic female avatar in CLO 3D, one of the 3D apparel CAD programs and the body form of women in their 20s-50s by body shape in the 6th Size Korea (2010). First, all the differences were formed similarly in the direct measurements between the 3D avatar and the body form were within 1 mm. Second, in a comparison of the section form of the avatar and body form in Size Korea, the avatar was formed in straight body shape and did not reflect a spinal curvature according to age. As a result of an examination of the items with a difference over 5° in the slope of side shape, there were angle differences in numerous body shapes in the angles of the side upper abdomen, side upper back, and side upper bust, and the avatar's bust shape was expressed more flatly compared to body form. It will be possible to produce an avatar that can adequately reflect body shape characteristics by adding detailed length and angle items by the region like waist back length and front length in producing the avatar reflecting body shape characteristics, instead of a standard body shape.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.834-843
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• 2020

This study develops 1/2 dress forms for draping. This study investigated the production status of domestic and foreign products in order to model their shape using CLO 3D. In addition, it developed torso-type and torso-crotch-type products that allowed for draping using a 3D printer. This study analyzed shape and size compared to developed ones after referring to the Size Korea 7th Survey data as well as seven domestic and foreign company websites. The results are follows. First, an investigation of the production status of the products for the size of most of the domestic ones (except K-4) indicated that the waist circumference was slimmer than Size Korea. Bust, waist, and hip circumferences ranged from 42.0 cm, 32.0 cm, and 45.0 cm - 49.0 cm, respectively, in Chinese products; 42.0 cm - 43.0 cm, 30.5 cm - 31.5 cm, and 46.0 cm - 46.5 cm in Japanese products; 43.0 cm, 35.0cm, and 46.5 cm in American products (Japanese body shape applied). Second, an avatar was produced on a 3D software with the average size of 20-24year-old women, and its file modified as a dress form for 3D printing with PLA filament to produce dress forms for draping, workable with pins, using quilting cotton and cotton cloth. Third, the comparisons of the form and flattening between the developed dress forms and the selling ones indicated that flattening was bigger in the waist part of the former than the latter. The waist is produced too slim in the existing dress forms; therefore, it is necessary to correct the waist circumference. Unlike existing dress forms, the developed ones were produced in proximity to the average size of 20-24 year-old women in the Size Korea 7th Survey.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.732-751
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• 2022

In this study, we aimed to apply 3D digital printing to basic clothing production and to propose futuristic fashion design and production methods that correspond to contemporary trends. Literature on future trends, dynamism, mechanical aesthetics, and experimentalism were used to define the characteristics of "futurism." Based on theoretical considerations about futurism, we created fashion designs using 3D digital printing methods. These designs were produced using the aesthetic characteristics of futurism; the 3D digital clothing program; and application of digital printing technologies to futuristic silhouettes, colors, and materials. The results were as follows: First, with the application of futurism as a fashion motif, we pursued collaboration between artistic work and fashion, and we then explored the possibility of creative expression. Second, harmony between achromatic and chromatic colors revealed even better dynamism and activeness, and the potential to express dynamism was observed. Third, with the development of fashion design processes based on 3D digital printing methodologies, it was found to be possible to eliminate the limitations of time and space, solve problems related to limited budget or communication, and positively influence the fashion industry by enhancing convenience and diversity. Fourth, with the development of fashion design that utilizes digital printing, it was found that problems related to time, space, or limited budget were able to be solved, as compared to the use of traditional printing and image reproduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.71-81
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• 1986

In order to control the formaldehyde release from D.P. finished fabric, cotton fabric was padded in DMDHEU resin bath containing either $Zn(NO_3)_2$ or $MgCl_2$ catalyst and a form-aldehyde scavenger like Glycerol, Sorbitol, Formamide, Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA, n= 2000) or diols, then dried and cured. The results are as follows : 1. When Lewis acid catalyst like $Zn(NO_3)_2$ or $MgCl_2$ was added in pad bath, the fabric finished with $Zn(NO_3)_2$ catalyst released the lower formaldehyde than with $MgCl_2$. 2. When the effect of pad bath pH was examined with varying the kinds of catalyst and the scavenger, it was found that the pad bath pH influenced on the amount of formaldehyde release and the optimum pad bath pH is at 4.3. Especially, in case of finishing at pad bath pH 4.3 with adding Formamide, the amount of formaldehyde release was decreased by about $45\~$35\%$ with $Zn(NO_3)_2$, while by about $20\~$45\%$ with $MgCl_2$ catalyst. In case of varying the concentration of a scavenger (Formamide), $1\%$ concentration of a scavenger was found to be the optimum level ana the higher the curing temperature up to $180^{\circ}C$, the lesser the amount of formaldehyde release were observed. 3. When the diol was used as scavenger, the amount of formaldehyde release was decreased by about $40\~$50\%$, but the longer the intramolecular length between OH groups, the lessor the amount of decrease of formaldehyde release were observed. 4. When the mixture of scavengers (Formamide and Glycerol) was added in the pad bath, .synergistic effect on formaldehyde release between the two scavengers wasn't observed. 5. The tensile strength of the resin finished fabric was reduced with increasing the pad lath pH and was influenced by the kind of scavengers, and the tensile strength was severely reduced when scavengers, especially Formamide, was added. The wrinkle recovery property is generally improved by resin finish on cotton fabric. When Formamide was added, the wrinkle recovery property is slightly decreased compared with that of the fabrics resin finished without a scavenger, and when polyol was added, the wrinkle recovery property showed almost no change.