• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.3
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2014

This study investigated body type among women in their 20s and the development of prototypes for tailored jackets by body type in order to design clothes in consideration of an imbalance in body type caused by the popularity of portable devices such as smartphones and Netbooks. This study aims to create a design of jacket patterns by body type through both actual and virtual wear testing among women in their 20s, who are the major consumer of ready-made clothes and are very sensitive to size fit. This study will provide pattern information for the manufacture of jackets with a goal of securing the latest scientific body type information and establish the grounds for a research method in the manufacture of clothes. According to actual and virtual wear tests of four different body types, a significant difference was found in armhole circumference in most types because it was scanned with the arms slightly apart to prevent the armhole area from being missed during the 3D scanning. This has resulted in a slight distortion in measurements. To correct this problem, it is necessary to verify the precision of the body scanner and its program. In categories in which a large significant difference was found, it is necessary to test them against many subjects. In addition, it would be required to perform a further study on the 3D virtual wear system, which could be useful in the clothing industry.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.448-457
• /
• 2017

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of interlock fabrics knitted with three types of fibers (i.e., cotton, wool, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers (i.e., 10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system. We experimented with four properties and thicknesses of twelve specimens of interlining bonded knitted fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings. The results showed that the tensile property changed values (i.e., LT increased, and WT and RT decreased) according to the denier of interlinings; however, the change was slight. On the other hand, the bending property increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the course. Among shearing properties, the value of G increased as the denier of the interlining increased on both the wale and the weft; however, 2HG decreased. Additionally, changes in the compression property varied according to the fibers and the denier of the interlinings. The thickness of the knitted fabrics increased or decreased slightly by bonding the interlining. based on these results, we conclude that the 3D virtual system users need to reflect these numerical changes of interlock fabrics by bonding interlinings when they perform fitting tasks on the screen to accurately express the to accurately express the manufacturing conditions of the real garment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.520-530
• /
• 2016

This research aims to propose an ergonomic design process for hip protector based on previous studies, existing products, multidisciplinary experts opinion, and wearing test. The elderly are more likely to suffer a hip fracture when they fall due to their physical changes in skeletal form, muscle quantity, bone density, and joint movement. A hip protector is an effective product to prevent hip fractures in the elderly but it also has a problem in that it is uncomfortable. Therefore there is a high chance that it won't be able to prevent hip fractures properly. Since the comfort of a hip protector is one of the most critical elements in preventing a hip fracture, we need to keep improving the hip protector for mobility and usability. Based on the previous studies and limitations of current hip protector products, we need to come up with an optimal design for the Korean elderly. First, knowledge has to be built relating to the ergonomic design of the hip protector considering body shape and size analysis using 3D-scan data, and biomechanical analysis on hip fracture. Second, we need to develop a design process including hip protector pattern design, and wearing evaluation with virtual system. Third, we suggest to reevaluate and verify the design procedure from impact evaluation using testing simulator, virtual evaluation of impact, to wearing comfort and usability evaluation. This design process presented in this study would be expected to contribute to the development of ergonomic hip protector which is suitable for the Korean elderly.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.727-743
• /
• 2018

In this study, we used the 3D simulation program to create bodice patterns for adolescents boy students and analyze the fitting and air gap through 3D simulation. The purpose of this study was to select the bodice pattern method that best suited the body shapes of the adolescents male students. The subjects of this study were the French E pattern, Japanese N pattern, and Korean industrial L and J patterns. The applied size was the sixth Korean human body size survey data of 2010 Korea. The age range of the subjects was 13-18 years. DC Suite Program Ver. 5.1 was used, and SPSS 23.0 program was used for data analysis. As a result of comparing the shapes of the bodice patterns in the 3D simulation program, the E pattern had two waist darts on the front and one shoulder dart and one waist dart on the back, and the J and L patterns only had one dart on the back. The N pattern had no darts on either the front or back. As a result of examining the appearance evaluation of the pattern, air gap, color distribution, and clothing cross-section, the E pattern was evaluated as the closest to the body, and the N pattern was evaluated as the pattern with the largest allowance. The J pattern was evaluated as the best fit for body shape of the male adolescents. However, it is necessary to develop a pattern system by adding extra ease in setting the center front length.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.145-154
• /
• 2015

This study aims to identify the differences of body image when the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt. The semi-tight skirt pattern was made using the standard size of a women in their 20s. 12 semi-tight skirt models combining 6 kinds of stripe directions and 2 kinds of stripe widths were made using CLO 3D virtual clothing system. The data was evaluated by 126 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; In accordance with the body image factor analysis of semi-tight skirt, three image factors were identified; whole body optical illusion, calf optical illusion and hip optical illusion. Among these factors, the whole body optical illusion factor is the most important factor. The body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt mostly showed the significant difference. In accordance with the analysis on the interaction effect of body image depending on the stripe direction and width change of semi-tight skirt, the whole body, calf and hip optical illusion factors showed the significance. The interaction of body image had independent influence on all factors of stripe direction and width. In particular, the interaction of stripe direction and width had the most significant influence on the whole body optical illusion.

• The KIPS Transactions:PartB
• /
• v.11B no.6
• /
• pp.683-690
• /
• 2004

Garment modeling and simulation is now one of the important elements in broad range of digital contents. Though there have been recent products on garment simulation, general users do not know well enough how to design a virtual costume that meets some requirements about its specific clothing pattern. In particular, Hanbok - the Korean traditional costume - has many different characteristics against western ones in the aspect of its pattern design and of draping. This paper presents a knowledge-driven approach for virtual Hanbok modeling without knowing how to make real Hanbok. First, parameterized knowledge for several fabric types art solicited using visual similarity assessment from simulated and real cloth. Secondly, based on the analysis of designer's knowledge, we defined multi-level adjustment processes of Hanbok measurements with regard to body shape features for different virtual actors. An experimental system is developed as the form of a Maya plug-in and the result shows the applicability of the proposed method.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.1191-1204
• /
• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.6
• /
• pp.66-76
• /
• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.25 no.3
• /
• pp.36-50
• /
• 2021

In the COVID-19 era, globally, companies in the fashion industry are pursuing new convergence methods through digital technology. Conventional fashion shows have become difficult to run exclusively, instead, the shows are run through a combination of offline and digital arrangements. This paper examines the trends of seven digital fashion show weeks in London, Paris, Milan, New York, Seoul, Shanghai, and Tokyo, and presents strategies applicable in Korea's Seoul Digital Fashion Week. We focused on the digital technology used in the digital fashion weeks fashion brands, and the characteristics of the host cities. The study conducted a literature review and case study through corporate and research report data, and the Fashion Week website. Based on the study results, changes in fashion industry calendars like 'See now, Buy now', seasonless, and unified collections for men and women, expansion of D2C system, the rise of short-form contents, and the expansion to the virtual world space and physical limitations can be cited as changed trends. The study provides insight into the incorporation of the Korean Wave and K-Pop singers, industrial structure change, and the establishment of B2B system in the Seoul digital fashion week. The shift to the digital runway is not only an alternative method to cope with the COVID-19 era but also a new "new normal". Fashion shows are no longer fixed and planned in free spaces. As a venue displaying the creator's personality, digital fashion week is expected advance in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.23 no.4
• /
• pp.149-166
• /
• 2021

This study tried to suggest a drafting method to draft tight fit torso patterns suitable for adult males with a sway back somatotype and a bend forward somatotype by setting and distributing the ease through the completion of the somatic surface pattern using the 3D body surface segment method. It was intended to be presented as a drafting method. As for the research method, the suitability of the somatic surface patterns and the tight fit torso patterns were confirmed by the evaluation of virtual wear, and the patterns were modified and supplemented. The research results are as follows. In the first evaluation of the tight fit torso patterns, the average, for 55 evaluation items, was 3.92 points for the sway back somatotype and 3.89 points for the bend forward somatotype. In the second evaluation, the bend forward somatotype was 4.51 points and the sway back somatotype was 4.62 points. The chest circumference ease amount for the bend forward somatotype and the sway back somatotype are 6.5% (6.8 cm) and 7% (6.8 cm) of the chest circumference, respectively, and the distribution of the front and back ease is the same at 4:6 (2.72 cm:4.08 cm). The waist circumference ease amount is 6.5% (5.8cm) and 6.5% (5.6 cm) of the waist circumference dimensions, and the distribution of the front and backease are 5:5 (1.45 cm: 1.45 cm) and 4:6 (2.24 cm: 3.36 cm), respectively. The completed tight fit torso patterns were converted into institutional formulas and presented as a drafting method.