• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.7
• /
• pp.63-73
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.3
• /
• pp.171-187
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meanings of retro-fashion, to research the design characteristics and background on the birth of repro-fashion. It can help to confirm the importance of aesthetic marketing which is based on human feelings, the roles and cultural and industrial meanings. Reto-fashion Is one of the mediums between the expression of Post-modern fashion and emotional sympath of human beings as consumer and fashion creators. So this inspiration is the way of fashion creativities. The backgrounds of appearance repro-fashion are reflection about materialism and technique and 20th century, the sense of instability and finding new ideas from the past. The characteristics of retro-fashion designs are as follows : First, the styles have been come from 50's. 60's, 70's, and 80\`s. It means that the styles not just expressed to return to the past simply but an expression the emotional state for missing the past. Second, the colors and materials are various also as like styles. Third, the decorations of repro-fashion are more crafts by human. The roles of retro-fashion are for creation of high valued product in fashion design, expression of individuality with disharmonized coordination and application as a fusion style. The cultural and industrial meaning of repro-fashion are endowment of aesthetic marketing using human feeling in fashion marketing area and pursuing of the Renaissance of fashion culture and industry. Therefore it is needed that design critics and analysis going side by culture and industry condition for fashion study with human feelings in 21th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.4
• /
• pp.24-37
• /
• 2011

This study aims to figure out any possible expanded expression methods and diverse formative effects in fashion design by recognizing the importance of objects that suggest new paradigms as a means of expressing aesthetic consciousness in contemporary fashion and analogizing the formative characteristics of objects used in fashion and their significance. Accordingly, the study focuses on analyzing and interpreting objects introduced to fashion design with a formative view by substituting the concept of an object that has taken an important position in the contemporary arts for fashion. This study further aims to examine the concept of objects by trend and their characteristics within a syntactical structure and come up with a standard for classification of objects and a framework of analysis from cubism in the early 20th century when the concept of an object began to appear in arts to Dadaism, Surrealism, Pop art, Land art, Environmental art and the present time. Finally, the study aims to examine the status of objects in fashion and the relationships between fashion and objects through analyses on fashion objects and to suggest new perspectives and approaches to interpret the contemporary fashion in the 21st century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.170-181
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to suggest the possibility of futurism as original design pursuing newness in approaching 21C by studying how futurism having a great effect on fashion as innovatory ideology in early 20C did became paradigm in 20C fashion and the common peculiarity of the dress and its ornaments in this time before 21C. The Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion are representative futurism fashion of 20C. The common inner inclination in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber fashion are ; First, a future-oriented character. Second, a surrealism character, Third, an anti-cultural character. The greatest peculiarity in the common outer shape in both Space Age Fashion and Techno-Cyber Fashion is material. First, a innovatory choice. Second, an active motion. Third, a diverse effects. Future dress and its ornaments of 21C may be changed greatly by the development of technique, and this fact supports the forecast that the change of paradigm resulted from the development of science may have an effect on future dress and its ornaments as well as modern one. The paradigm change of futurism fashion would be continued, and its influence would work as main source shaping the form of design in 21C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.4
• /
• pp.131-148
• /
• 2003

Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.3
• /
• pp.1-18
• /
• 2008

The tendency of exuberant multi-everything, enormous volumes and decoration has been showed in fashion since the 21st century. This tendency is very interesting in contrast to the tendency of restraint, simplicity and removing decoration which has been showed in the modern fashion throughout the 20th Century and especially minimalism fashion in the 1960s and the 1990s with the expectation of New Millenium. Maximalism is this kind of exuberant expression emerged since 2000. However, studies about maximalism in fashion have not been performed enough. Thus this study tried to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of maximalism in the modern fashion according to the previous studies of maximalism in design and architecture with social cultural background. The scope of this study was from 2000 to 2006, and this study was performed through literature survey with demonstrative analyzation of fashion collection photographs. The results are as follows; Maximalism has the meaning of 'maximum oriented-ism' and has aesthetic view of 'more/bigger is more beautiful.' The formativeness of maximalism in modern fashion was analyzed as fusion, enlargement, decoration, and fantasy. The internal meaning was analyzed as recovery of human being through pursuing of sensibility, fun and newness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.21
• /
• pp.193-206
• /
• 1993

Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.95-108
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.1
• /
• pp.5-20
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.1
• /
• pp.148-165
• /
• 2017

An assortment of daily supplies have been documented in and accounting book that Hwa-sun Song, a wholesale dealer in Hongcheon, Gangwon-do, sent to Young-hui Sin, a customer. This study analyzed a total of 163 documentations in the accounting book between 1910 to 1916, which includes types of daly supplies, trading volume, and prices, maintained accounting between. Consequently, we are able to indentify companies that produced the applicable goods, names of products, units by which goods were counted, and the lowest and highest prices prevailing, along with kinds of goods patronized in everyday life in Hongcheon in the early 20th century. Paper had the maximum trading volume. The second, most traded were cigarettes, a symbol of the new culture. These were traded under various brand names, such as Kkotpyo, Guksyu, Sanhopyo, Syonghak, and Joil. Foodstuffs, were the third most traded items, including fish, fruits, sugar, Waeddeok, Chilwaeddeok, Color candies and Okchyun candies. Our results indicate that the snack food business had developed since the 19th century. Lighting equipment, oil, candles, matches as well as traditional oil lamps and flints cornered the fourth largest stock being traded. Medications were fifth, with prescriptions written for Insohwan, Hoechyungsan and Siungo, including quinine, a medicine for malaria. Other trades included kitchen appliances such as soup bowls, porcelain bowls, kettles, and drinking cups, and a variety of daily supplies such as mirrors, mats, umbrellas, Geumjiwaemil, hair oil imported from Japan, and soap.