• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.599-614
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• 2017

With the increasing media representation of aging as negative and abnormal, anti-aging products and discourses are spreading to younger generations. This paper analyzes the anti-aging discourse in a fashion magazine targeted towards women in their 20s. It quantitatively analyzes the historical development of the antiaging industry and discourses from 1994 to 2014 in the magazine "$C{\acute{e}}ci$". It also analyzes the patterns of signification associated with aging in the magazine through the use of critical discourse analysis. This paper identifies five major discourses -"segmentation of the definitions of youthful appearance", "scientific and medical discourse", "self-care discourse", "prevention of aging", and "social values of youthful appearances". The paper finds that the construction of anti-aging discourses towards women in their 20s is heavily influenced by the close link between the anti-aging industry and the fashion media. It also confirms the ideology of self-development though a rigorous appearance-management that is strongly imposed on Korean women and subsequently reproduced in an anti-aging discourse towards women in their 20s.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.17-24
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• 2003

Objet, which showed up with the art of 20C, is now an important element giving a creative idea to fashion designers in modern times. The purpose of the study is to review how the objet technique was paid attention and recreated in the fashion, through the analysis of works, and the formative features of each technique for fashion, in order to identify the connection of arts and fashion, and the position of fashion as art. The techniques using object appeared in the 20th century fashion are as follows: First, papier-colle, which is adding printed materials onto the surface, is such a technique that adds cut-feeling materials to impose a new texture, or arrange again the cloth-cuts to create a different clothing from the existing one, which went to the extension of materials in the fashion. Second, collage of daily materials expresses directly and emotionally through direct presentation of the objets. Especially, collage of patch-work is reproduced into a new fabric depending on the objet used, giving a standing over the form. Third, ready-made which presents the material meaning only of the objet expands the range of objets which could be used in the fashion by introducing the daily materials having a meaning itself as a fashion. Forth, an attempt to approach to the objets of popular image by designed techniques come out in modern fashion as a graffiti look or a typography look, making the clothing itself an objet to transmit a message directly to the masses. Introduction of various objets and development of expression technique brought out the diversification of materials, and enrichment and extension of expression sphere, which resultingly spreaded the freedom of expression and progressed into the art sphere, making a direct motif to solidify its standing as a formative art.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.163-172
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• 2002

There have been many unbalanced attempts to break the rules with Renaissance movement which connects with the past in the current art. And From the latter half of Twenty century to the early half of twenty one century, the common sense of fashion is turned over by(unthinkable fashion). To analyze current apparence of fashion, this research make a comparison of fashion condition between the sixteenth century and twenty century fashion, Three analysis methods is introduced. First of all, this paper make research of original language of mannerism and unthinkable apparence. Second, appearances of mannerism fashion and unthinkable fashion which are taken from reference books and pictures. Third, Gathering methods which express own style between two periods in the end part of research. As a result, Although Mannerism isn't practical for the visual and new pleasure, and neglect humanism of Renaissance, It is a tendency which is willing to change the flow of prevailing mode, and to reflect asking of people each periods. Mannerism and unthinkable fashion is apparence of society to refresh own feeling. And then, Mannerism and unthinkable fashion is a new challenge to escape from fixed thought.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.349-356
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to compare the thermophysiological responses and subjective sensations of clothing materials with different water transfer property investigated in exercising and resting subjects at an ambient temperature of $20^{\circ}C$ and a relative humidity of 40%. Two kinds of clothing ensemble were tested: 100% cotton with highly water-absorbent but slowly dry properties(C) and 100% polyester with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties by four capillary channels(QADP). Seven apparently healthy male participants each undertook two series of experiments comprised 10-min of rest, 20-min of exercise with 70% of $VO_{2max}$ on a treadmill and 20-min of recovery. Mean skin temperature was significantly lower in QADP than in C during exercise and recovery. Clothing microclimate temperature was significantly lower in QADP during exercise and clothing surface temperature was also lower in QADP especially during recovery. Also, clothing surface humidity was significantly higher in QADP after the later half of exercise. The concentration of blood lactic acid tended to decrease to a lower level at recovery 3 minutes when wearing QADP rather than C clothing ensemble. Metabolic energy was marginally significantly less during the second half of exercise in QADP. Body mass loss tended to be greater in C than in QADP. The participants had better scores in thermal sensation, comfortable sensation and wetness in QADP during exercise and recovery. These results show that functional materials with quickly water-absorbent and dry properties can alleviate heat strain and induce more comfortable clothing microclimates and subjective sensations in the exercise-induced hyperthermia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.266-274
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• 2014

Parametric bodies reproduce the actual shape of human body parts and should be convenient for general users to change size to judge the visual fit of clothes on-line. In this study, three parametric bodies(i.e. I, C, D ) were compared to verify the accuracy of the provided body dimensions and reproducibility to a target model. To compare reproducibility, the 20s female standard virtual model developed for an apparel industry by Korean agency for technology and standards is used. The investigation of existing parameters showed that the numbers and kinds of parameters provided by each program were different with some errors in notation; in addition, some of virtual body dimensions went beyond the maximum allowable error. The result of changing each parametric body to the 20s female standard body showed that D, C, I in order produced better reproducibility for body dimensions. There were different levels of protrusion and concavity in the virtual cross sections and virtual longitudinal sections despite the small differences in body dimensions and cross sectional areas; in addition, some parametric body was not bilateral symmetry. The results of this study can be used as basic information in the standardization of a virtual model used in a virtual garment program.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.2 s.161
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• pp.225-235
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to grasp the character of consumers and the situation of domestic kidult fashion market. By grasping the distribution of kidult generation and the factors of product-selection based on products images, this research could be a substantial data to kidult associated company product planning and marketers. Subjects for this study were 213 Daegu women from 20 to 30 yearn of age who have high propensity to kidult. The statistical treatment of material used by SPSS 1.0 program consists of frequency analysis, factor analysis, multiple regression analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test. As a results, the characteristics of kidult consumers are classified as six factors. On image toward of kidult fashion goods, there was a significant difference 20 and 30 aged generation. According to fashion goods group, each group recognized on image of fashion products as follow: Group A is 'fancy', group B is 'childish', group C are 'familiarity', group D was recognized as 'fancy' and was identical to A on adjective expression, but was different A on recognition. All consumer characteristics of fun, character, girlish, nostalgia have a significant relation with the recurrence of products selection factor, and its order was character, girlish, nostalgia, and fun.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.39-54
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• 1988

The purposes of this study were to identify the periodicity of fashion in modern society and to find the correlation between each detail and bustle constitution through the bustle styles that have been recently revived. For the study of periodicity, fashion plates or pictures in Vogue or in the books related Vogue since 1930 were selected, and were analyzed into bell, tubular and bustle silhouettes that were devided by Young (1937). And for the study of the correlation of detail and bustle constitution, fashion plates and pictures that were related to the bustle in the 19th century and the 20th century were selected, and according to the epoch (19C, 20C) and the use (daytime dress or evening dress), each of them was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. After 1930, $24{\sim}33$ year amplitude was founded at tubular and bell shape, that proved shorter cycles than Young's. 2. In each characters of clothing details, deep decolletage, undivided waistline, spaced bodice in daytime dress were partly identified the characteristics of 20th century costume. 3. The form of bustle was converted from the complex ornament of the 19th century to the simple shape of the 20th century. In other words, it is necessary that the definition of bustle be changed not the previous definition as the silhouette and instrument but that as the emphasis dimension. 4. The dimensions that showed difference at daytime dress and evening dress were 'existence of collar', 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve' for 19th century, and 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve,' 'length of skirt' for 20th century. 5. Correlations with the bustle constitution and details were shown at bodice and waistline with the complex bustle in the 19th century and at collar and neckline with the simple bustle in the 20th century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.123-128
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• 2006

For the purpose of examining the relationship of physiological and subjective responses to different exercise intensities and varied types of sportswear material, under environmental condition $20{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ $50{\pm}3%$RH, five men who wear four different kinds of sportswear which have same clothing cover area. The subjects exercised for 20 min with a 20 min pre-exercise rest period and another 20 min post-exercise recovery period. Throughout the 60 min. duration, we monitored the local skin temperature, rectal temperature, clothing microclimate and subjective sensation. The mean skin temperature was recorded to range from $33.5{\sim}34.1^{\circ}C$ for the entire duration of the experiment with the highest temperature observed at the 7th min after starting the exercise. During the exercise intensity at THR 20, the lowest recorded temperature was at the 5th min of the recovery time and stabilized at the 10th min. However, in the exercise intensity condition at THR 70, the temperature declined steadily until the end of the experiment. With regard to clothing materials, cotton 100% and Polyester/Cotton blended fabrics knit(35/65) was $0.5{\sim}0.7^{\circ}C$ maintained lower than Polyester 100% and polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (65/35). In the case of the rectal temperature at THR 70 in case of PET 100%, Polyester/Cotton blended woven fabrics (35/65) was higher $0.2{\sim}0.5^{\circ}C$ than other sportswear throughout the duration of the experiment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.101-112
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• 2015

Because young men's slacks are becoming more slim-fitting today, this study attempts to identify room for improvement by comparing and analyzing the patterns of men's slacks in the literature and those of manufacturers. Selected for the study are two patterns from the literature and one from manufacturers (Slacks A, B, C); those from studies are slim silhouette pants with no tucking around the waist at the front. Subjects for the Fit tests and the pattern designs were men in their twenties with average body shapes in accordance with the figures in Size Korea 2010. Pants were made from muslin fabric and the Fit tests were carried out with three subjects and a panel of five experts to evaluate comfort and appearance. The analysis of the patterns revealed that Slacks A were the longest followed by C and then B. Slacks C had the most girth ease, and Slacks B were the slimmest in both length and girth. Movement tests showed Slacks A to be the most comfortable followed by B and then C. The appearance test found that Slacks B were the most attractive, followed by A, and then C. The fits at the front, back and sides of all three pants were more or less the same. We suggest that more studies be done on pants patterns adjusting them for proper ease and using elastic fabric in order to maintain the slim fit and also to be comfortable to wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-95
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to investigate the improvement of fiber surface, physical properties and research the physical properties and dyeability of cotton fabrics treated with KOH solution at low and high temperature. The treatment conditions for mercerization with KOH were changed various temperatures(25, $90^{\circ}C$), concentrations(15, 20, 25, 30%. w/v) and times(30, 60, 180, 300sec). The effects of mercerization after KOH treatment estimated with tensile strength, tearing strength, shrinkage, drape stiffness, moisture regain, fiber surface, and dyeability. The optimal conditions were concentration of KOH 20%, time 180sec in low temperature and concentration of KOH 20%, time 60sec in high temperature. The results are as follows; Tensile strength, tearing strength and moisture regain were much improved than those of untreated cotton fabric. Shrinkage and drape stiffness of KOH treated cotton were more increased at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Fiber surface showed more rounded shape at $25^{\circ}C$ than $90^{\circ}C$. Dyeability of cotton fabrics improved by KOH treatment.