A Study on the Periodicity of Fashion focused on the bustle styles

버슬 스타일을 중심(中心)으로 본 유행(流行)의 주기성(週期性) 연구(硏究)

The purposes of this study were to identify the periodicity of fashion in modern society and to find the correlation between each detail and bustle constitution through the bustle styles that have been recently revived. For the study of periodicity, fashion plates or pictures in Vogue or in the books related Vogue since 1930 were selected, and were analyzed into bell, tubular and bustle silhouettes that were devided by Young (1937). And for the study of the correlation of detail and bustle constitution, fashion plates and pictures that were related to the bustle in the 19th century and the 20th century were selected, and according to the epoch (19C, 20C) and the use (daytime dress or evening dress), each of them was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. After 1930, $24{\sim}33$ year amplitude was founded at tubular and bell shape, that proved shorter cycles than Young's. 2. In each characters of clothing details, deep decolletage, undivided waistline, spaced bodice in daytime dress were partly identified the characteristics of 20th century costume. 3. The form of bustle was converted from the complex ornament of the 19th century to the simple shape of the 20th century. In other words, it is necessary that the definition of bustle be changed not the previous definition as the silhouette and instrument but that as the emphasis dimension. 4. The dimensions that showed difference at daytime dress and evening dress were 'existence of collar', 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve' for 19th century, and 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve,' 'length of skirt' for 20th century. 5. Correlations with the bustle constitution and details were shown at bodice and waistline with the complex bustle in the 19th century and at collar and neckline with the simple bustle in the 20th century.