• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.41-42
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• 2003

복식은 그 시대의 분위기와 취향을 흡수하여 이를 반영하며 착용자의 지위와 욕구를 보여 준다. 19세기에 접어들면서 서구 사회는 프랑스 혁명과 산업혁명의 결과로 기존의 귀족과 평민이라는 계급의 장벽이 무너지고 공업화와 비약적인 경제발전으로 고도의 산업사회로의 성장을 계속하게 되었다. 이러한 고도의 경제성장은 물질만능주의의 사회풍조를 가져왔으며 이는 기존의 신분위주의 사회계급을 경제력 위주의 사회계급으로 재편성되게 하였다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.149-163
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research the Korean and Japanese costume systems and to compare both of them on the process of adopting the western-originated costumes. The consequences of this study are as follows. Chosen and Japan started simplifying the traditional clothings, Introducing the western clothings and executed the ordinance prohibitory topknots through reforming costume systems since Port Opening Treaties in 19th centra. Japan performed the reformation of costume system effectively through the grand campaign of social reforming enlightment by Meiji Government. Meanwhile in Korea, there were a continual repetition of adoption and rejection in the reformation of costume systems because of strong cultural self-esteem and competition of foreign Empires. However, western-originated cultural perspectives brought the strong self-devaluated view on their own cultures to both countries. And that's the first cause of substitution of western clothings for ordinary ones in both nations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.176-191
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• 2014

This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.56-67
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• 1999

At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.295-307
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• 2001

This study was investigated to a effect of sociocultural environment on the vicissitudes of headgear in Europe on 19th Century. Form of headgear was increasingly more functional and simple. It was needed various items with various usage. Since Industrial Revolution the french Revolution. A diffusion of sport and increase of leisure time gave rise to entrance of mass headgear with reasonability and simplicity. But female headgear was more decorative than males. Until late 19th century when female has participated in social performance, female headgear was not functional and simple form. More often female took male headgear(fedora, straw boater, cap, tc.) than bonnet when female role-awareness was changed and sport is diffused.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.301-314
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• 2017

This study focused on the movement adaptability of $19^{th}$ century classical opera stage costumes. Researchers focused on a basic $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study analyzed movement adaptability using ROM (range-of-motion) tests of the upper limb flexion and abduction postures. It developed two research garments to mimic basic $19^{th}$ century style jackets with or without gussets at the axilla. The ROM experiment identified the gusset size as 11cm in length. Experimental postures included upper limb flexion and abduction. The study measured subjective comfort at 8 postures. These postures included the flexion and abduction of the arms and torso. Subjects also evaluated the subjective comfort of the rotation posture of the torso. Researchers evaluated the similarities between research garments' silhouettes and the $19^{th}$ century women's jacket. The study used a 3D virtual fitting system to evaluate fit, and specialists further analyzed fit with photographs and 3D virtual graphics. The results are as follows. The silhouettes of both research garments were similar to the silhouettes of the $19^{th}$ century western women's jacket. The jacket with axilla gusset had a better fit than the basic style jacket. The basic style jacket without the axilla gusset showed limited movement adaptability at the shoulder joint and it caused discomfort at the axilla and elbow. The 3D virtual fit test was not a suitable method for analyzing silhouette similarity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.812-825
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• 2008

This article analyzed fashion representations in France posters, especially the late 19th century France when mass consumption cultures arose. That was analyzed by consumers' sexuality supposed in advertisement contents. Female models mainly figured in posters of the late 19th century France made a role to promote consumption, in which female models were emphasized on fashion, for example, erotic robe, unusual hair style and etc. Posters' type in this period were categorized in three types by presenting style of female body and fashion style. The first were targeting female consumers, and that posters represented bourgeois fashion styles and life styles to clear consumers' social status and to present women's consuming power. The second case was targeting male consumers, and that posters figured female models such as available products. In this case, poster artists emphasized female models' sexualities and used fantasies against eroticism of the legs and feet. And third case was targeting female consumers and males', in this case, two different aspects were required to appealing to consumers. One was to use a female sexuality to appeal for male consumers, the other was to modify female models as transcendental being such like a muse admirable and mysterious, through fashion styles for female consumers. In the late 19th century, female body and fashion were spectacular elements in visual arts specifically. This study clarified representations of female body and fashion in the late 19th century posters according to poster's contents and target consumer's sexuality. This was one of the aspects characterizing early advertisement media.