• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.140-155
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• 2009

This study tries to find out the special twine technique of flat string and refers to historical documents, records, artifacts of excavated articles, and real materials. In Japan weaved cloth is called Jomul or Jonue and these methods were brought to Japan from Korea during Aska Period(645${\sim}$710) and Nara Period(710${\sim}$794). Among those knot methods, the 1/1 knot was written as a Shillajo on a documentary record at Heian Period, Engisik, and Samdaesillok which is a historic document from King Saiya to King Gowooko(858${\sim}$887). Also 2/2 knot weaving was recorded as Goryeojo that the technique originated for a long time in Japan. During the Joseon Dynasty, Gunmok was written as Dahoi, and Gwangdahoe, which means wide and flat Gunmok, was the name of Dae(Belt). The frame for the twine Gwangdahoe is no longer in Korea, but only can be found in Japan as a Goraiwoochi loom for Shillajo and Goryeojo from Korea. There are currently artifacts by the techniques of Shillajo and Goryeojo that were excavated in 15${\sim}$17C in Korea. Therefore this study was looked into the artifacts from 6${\sim}$8C in $Sh{\"{O}}so$-in, and the features of Dae (Belt) weaved by Shillajo and Goryeojo case method. Gwangdahoe excavated artifacts in the mid Jeosun Dynasty was restored by the process of Goryeojo weaving method.

• 천문학논총
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.59-79
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• 2022

We investigated the records of astronomical phenomena in the Hyeonjong-Donggung-Ilgi written by the educational office for a crown prince, Sigang-won, during the time of a crown prince of the king Hyeonjong (i.e., from 1649 to 1659). Of the total of 3,625 days, 3,044 astronomical accounts were compiled from astronomical records of 2,003 days. We classified these astronomical accounts into 16 items, grouped into five categories, and statistically analyzed each group. In our analysis, the accounts for atmos-pheric optical phenomena equates to 57.9% of the total, and for celestial phenomena visible during the daytime the percentage is 17.3%. The records related to the approach between two objects such as planets, moon, and stars account for 3.3%, and solar or lunar eclipses take up 0.6%. The ratio of accounts regarding meteor, comet, and fire light (火光) stand at 13.8%, 0.30%, and 6.8%, respectively. Sunny days account for 71.1% of all days per year during this period. We determined that the distribution of the fire light by month is similar to that of the solar halo. We also found that the astronomical records from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty correspond to only 30% of those of the Hyeonjong-Donggung-Ilgi for the same period. In particular, the phenomena of celestial objects occurring outside the atmosphere are transmitted to the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty in a higher proportion than the phenomena inside the air. It is therefore necessary to use a historical diary like a Donggung-Ilgi to interpret the phenomena in the air such as atmospheric optical events, meteor, and fire light.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.31-49
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• 2010

This study intends to look into management and architectural space composition of Honjeon during the reign of Sukjong. Also it purposes to inspect how to affect management of the Royal Palace. The study is based on each Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Eugwe between late 17C and 18C. And the data on management of the Royal Palace is based on Joseonwangjosillok and Seungjeongwon Ilgi. Because Sukjong used ChangDeokgung and GyeongDeokgung alternately, Honjeon located at Munjeongjeon of ChangGyeonggung during Sukjong stayed at ChangDeokgung and located at Gyesangdang of GyeongDeokgung during Sukjong stayed at GyeongDeokgung. At that time, often movement of the King modified procedure of moving Honjeon. Between the first year of Hyenjong and the 9th year of Sukjong, architectural space of Honjeon was settled. In 1659, territory of Jeongjeon was settled. Also between 1674 and 1684, Goklimcheong was built. Construction of Goklimcheong is noticeable character. As Munjeongjeon was being used as Honjeon continually, it was recognized as Honjeon. Due to its long utilization as Honjeon, several gonvernment offices were transferred. Also it influenced utilization of Myeongjeongjeon.

• 한국한의학연구원논문집
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2007

Haedae(海帶, haidai) is representative herb from seaweeds, but its origin is still confusing. Thus we analyzed its origin on the basis of classics of oriental medicine. The scientific name of Haedae corresponds to Zostera marina, according to the folkloric use. But, it is Laminaria japonica, according to its habitat, morphological feature, and the korean name on the medical books in Joseon since 17c. In the remote past, it seemed that two groups were segragated by the name of Zostera marina Haedae and Laminaria japonica Haedae. However, it is thought that this two trends were mixed up when medical knowledge was compiled in Song Dynasty era. Documental support inclined to Laminaria japonica, but it is too early to conclude that Laminaria japonica is the Haedae. To prove this hypothesis, further study is required to investige whether Laminaria japonica or Zostera marina has mentioned efficacies of Haedae used for the treatment of wen, San syndromes, edema, scrofula, etc. And we have need of research that solve the origin problem of Gonpo(Laminariae thallus) on the assumption that Laminaria japonica is Haedae.

• 복식
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• 제57권9호
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제36권3호
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• pp.37-47
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• 2018

조선시대 설정된 구곡의 현황과 그 실태를 파악하기 위한 기초적 단계로서 남한 지역에 분포하는 구곡원림의 분포현황과 설정된 구곡의 경물 특성을 파악한 본 연구의 결론은 다음과 같다. 첫째, 국내에 분포하는 구곡원림은 대경권에 55개소(51.4%), 충청북도에 22개소(20.56%)가 집중 분포하는 것으로 확인되었다. 구곡이 집중 분포된 곳은 소백산-월악산-속리산을 잇는 백두대간상의 좌우안과 낙동정맥 우안의 낙동강 유역에 집중되는 경향이 매우 강하게 나타났는데, 이는 영남 성리학파의 학풍과 그들의 원림 향유와 밀접하게 관련된 것으로 판단된다. 둘째, 기초지자체별로 구곡의 분포를 살펴 본 결과, '한국 정신문화의 수도'로 자타가 공인하는 안동시에 10개소(9.35%)로 가장 많은 구곡원림이 존재하는 것으로 확인되었고, 다음으로 괴산군 9개소(8.41%), 문경시 8개소(7.48%), 봉화군 6개소(5.61%), 영주시 5개소(4.67%) 등의 순으로 나타났다. 셋째, 구곡원림의 설정 시기는 18C 33개소(33.0%)를 필두로, 19C 33개소(33.0%), 20C 14개소, 17C 13개소, 16C년 4개소 등의 순으로 16세기 이후부터 조선 말기까지 꾸준히 구곡문화가 전파된 것으로 파악되었다. 특히 조선 후기인 18~19C(66.0%) 사이에 높은 빈도로 구곡원림이 설정된 것으로 나타났다. 넷째, 곡의 집경형태는 '구곡'이 97개소(90.65%)로 압도적이었으며 그 중 상향식 구곡은 총 99개소(92.5%), 하향식 구곡은 총 8개소(7.5%) 구곡으로 확인되었다. 다섯째, 구곡 콘텐츠 중 구곡시는 67개소(64.49%)로 가장 많이 나타났고 바위 글씨가 29개소(27.10%), 구곡도는 16개소(14.95%)가 존재하는 것으로 확인되었다. 여섯째, 구곡 경관구성에 가장 많이 등장한 경물은 대(臺)가 124개(13.05%)로 월등히 많았는바, 이는 조선구곡의 특성을 부각하는 경물 속성으로 볼 수 있다. 이어 암(岩)을 포함한 암(巖)이 115개(11.2%), 담(潭) 73개(7.68%), 정(亭) 48개(5.05%), 동(洞) 39개(4.10%), 산(山) 36개(3.78%), 봉(峯) 27개(2.84%), 연(淵) 23개(2.42%), 천(川) 탄(灘) 각각 22개(2.31%) 등의 순으로 나타났다. 향후 구곡의 총 연장거리 및 경사도 등 지형 등을 감안한 구곡의 입지유형 분류 등의 연구가 뒤따라야 진정한 구곡 원림의 경물특성 및 입지분포 특성이 더욱 명료하게 부각될 것으로 예상된다.

• 한국전통조경학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.70-83
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• 2013

한국전통정원으로서 별서의 지평을 넓히고자, 경남 밀양 퇴로리에 소재한 여주이씨의 서고정사와 삼은정의 조영 특성을 고찰한 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 축약된다. 서고정사와 삼은정은 종택을 중심으로 서고정사는 약 340m, 삼은정은 약 630m 가량 이격되어 있으나, 모두 1km 권역권내에 포치되어 있음으로써, 종택과의 일체감은 유지하면서도 은일을 실현하고자 했던 조영자의 작정의도가 여실히 읽혀진다. 항재(恒齋)와 용재(庸齋)라는 조영자의 아호를 당호로 삼은 서고정사 항재와 삼은정 용재 그리고 한서암은 서로 다른 좌향 차이에도 불구하고, 정원의 중심이자 핵심시설인 지당(池塘)으로의 시선 유도와 적극적인 완상을 최적화시키기 위한 공간구성이라는 측면에서 동질적이다. 서고정사의 활수당과 삼은정의 삼은지의 지당 연출기법은 공히 매우 특징적이다. 특히 배후로부터 전면을 향한 3단 구성의 단계적인 물의 연출과 전개 그리고 방지방도(方池方島)의 지당 구성은 기존 별서에서는 찾기 힘든 양식으로 양 별서의 동질적인 요소로 귀결된다. 또한 활수당과 삼은지의 중도(中島)는 식재를 위한 공간이라기보다는 석가산(石假山)을 추구한 다분히 관념성과 상징성이 두드러진 조형 특징으로 파악된다. 이는 서고정사의 과육천 배면에 형상화한 3개의 석가산과의 관련성을 고려할 때 더욱 흥미로운 연출이다. 한편, 서고정사와 삼은정은 자체의 완상뿐만 아니라, 특별한 시각구성의 연출을 목표로 외래수종을 도입하였다는 점에서 기존 별서와는 차별화된 특성을 보인다. 특히 삼은정에 화백 편백 백송 대왕송 금송 메타세쿼이아 그리고 히말라야시다 등의 교목성 침엽수종을 비중 있게 도입한 것은 매우 이례적인 특징으로, 서고정사 또한 풍치용으로 식재된 비자나무 주목 섬잣 나무 등의 자생 침엽수와 백송 삼나무 편백 등의 외래 조경수는 조선 말기라는 전환기적 시기의 식재 양상으로 판단된다. 한편, 양 별서에 설정된 집경(集景)인 '서고잡영17영'과 '삼은정12경'에서도 알 수 있듯, 일곽 밖의 경외로까지 정원영역을 확장 해석하고자한 발상 등에서는 원림적 풍취가 강하게 드러나고 있음이 발견된다. 이 같은 특성을 종합할 때 밀양 퇴로리 소재 서고정사와 삼은정은 입지와 공간 및 시각구성 등에 있어서는 조선조 별서의 유풍은 공유하지만, 수공간과 석가산의 조성 및 조경식물의 활용 측면에서는 매우 독특한 양상을 띄는 정원유적으로 주목된다.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제15권
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• pp.96-121
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• 2014

심희수 초상화는 조선 17세기 공신상이며 '종가 보존본'과 '차종손댁 보존본' 2본으로 1980년에 기증되었다. 기존 장황 형태를 그대로 유지하고 있었으나 화견의 결손 및 수해에 의한 얼룩 등 손상 상태가 매우 심각하여 보존처리를 진행하여 원형을 살리도록 복원하였다. 또한 X-ray 촬영 및 XRF, XRD, 그라프 "C" 정색반응 등 다양한 과학적 조사를 통해 재료 및 제작 기법을 조사하였다. 바탕 직물은 정련된 견섬유로 씨실 2줄이 한 쌍으로 날실 1줄로 이루어진 평직으로 되어 있었다. 배접지 분석결과, 1차 배접지는 대나무 섬유의 중국지, 2차 배접지는 닥나무 섬유의 한지로 확인되었다. 안료는 연백, 주사, 연단, 아타카마이트, 먹, 석청, 은, 금 등 다양한 전통 안료를 사용하였음을 알 수 있었다. 채색기법을 조사한 결과 흰색 ^연백·녹색 ^{아타카마이트}·주황 ^연단·흑색 ^먹·황색 ^금 등의 색을 사용하여 배채가 이루어졌음을 확인할 수 있었다. 더불어 X-ray 투과사진에서 먹이나 염료와 함께 연백을 혼용하여 사용하였음을 알 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제59권3호
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.