Journal of Korean Library and Information Science Society
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v.44
no.1
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pp.261-277
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2013
This study is about the new examining of the books' period for publication, system, and the relationship with the original script by considering the books of 'Sambon Hwayemgyeong of Suchangpan series' as a whole. As a result, the books of 'Sambon Hwayemgyeong of Suchangpan series' are arranged with four types, '11th century edition'(estimated the first published book), 'Suchangsanyun edition(1098) and Sookjongyeongan edition(1096-1105)', '12th to 13th century edition', and 'Haeinsa Sagan edition(12th-13th century)'. Among them, especially '11th century edition'(estimated the first published book) is the book that has been known as a 'Y$\ddot{u}$an book', '12th century edition' or 'bokgakbon of the Kitan(or Seoha) line's book', and 'Sookjongyeongan edition (1096-1105)' and so on.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.18
no.1
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pp.140-159
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1994
Heraldry, which originated from the culture of knights in the 12th century, came to be drawn on shields, and was inherited as a symbol of the family at the end of the 12th century and developed rapidly through the 13th and 14th century. Afterwards heraldry was in great vogue and used in the shields, clothes of men and women, armors, housings and flags. Therefore the citizen class as well as nobles and knights came to possess heraldry. In particular parti-color and impaled coat were accepted in the clothes, and served the dual purpose of status symbol and ornament in the 13th century. It can be said that the appearance of heraldry on the clothes was typical of the Middle Ages. The origin, generally accepted, was that the crusaders wore the surcots, also known as the cyclases, on the armors to prevent the powerful sun of Syria and dust of deserts, and to prevent the armors from rusting due to moisture. As the surcot was made of white linen or white silk till the beginning of the 13th century, knight's heraldry came to be put on the surcot in order to identify each corps. According as the coat of mail covering all the body was devised, the same heraldry attached on the shield seemed to appear on the clothes of surcot or jupon(afterwards pourpoint) in order to identify the status in the battlefield and tournament. Heraldry, a system of mark in the 12th century, was used as a symbol of authority of the upper class such as the Royal House, nobles and knights, and may have been mysterious instruments in the Milddle Ages. However, in the modern times of the 20th century heraldry has come to be a kind of symbol marks such as badges and banners symbolizing the hallmark of the goods of enterprises, organizations and groups. Heraldry, existing up to now, of the individuals as well as international organizations can be seen as a result of deep-rooted tradition for esthetic appreciation and symbolism for heraldry.
There are two main halls in the Main Palace of the Koryo Dyansty in the 11th and 12th century. One, named Hoekyongjeon, was served only for special ceremony ; hundred Buddhist priests' sermons or receiption of Chinese emperor's letters. The other one, Kondukjeon, was used as ordinary throne hall. The ordinary throne hall was built when the palace was erected at the beginning era of the Koryo Danasty, while the special ceremony hall built after the reconstruction in the 11th century. The throne hall was located at northwest side of the special ceremony hall. Audience chamber and King's bedroom were located at west and northwest side of the throne hall. The basic layout of the Palace showed unsymmetrical shape. It seemed mainly effected by its undulating terraine. The acess road from main gate to the throne hall showed zigzag way, by following a stream penetrating the site obliquely, It could be said that the Main Palace of the Koryo Danasty achieved its originality on the aspect of unsymmetrical layout and zigzag acess road, which was not found in the former palaces.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.2
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pp.55-65
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2010
The present study purposed to compare formative expression between the fashion of the end of 19th century - early 20th century and that of the 21st century which were influenced by art nouveau and art deco. For this purpose, we analyzed contents in literature, Internet, etc.,. According to the results of this study, the formative expression of art nouveau were divided into continuous movement, optical illusion and decorative expression. Continuous movement was used to express fancy and soft images in the end of 19th century, and to express images giving the feeling of speed and tension in the 21st century. Optical illusion was expressed by the movement the thin and soft materials with the body movement and the movement of excessive frills adornment. And in movement produced using thin and soft materials and by the bias cutting method in the 21st century. Decorative expression was expressed as fantasy and decadent image in the end of 19th century and as mild passionate and modern image with color combination in the 21st century. The formative expression of art deco were divided into visual simplicity, contrastive loudness, and functional expression. Visual simplicity was expressed as a boyish image in the early of 20th century, but as a complex expression combining simplicity and femininity in the 21st century. Contrastive loudness was expressed by using colors both in the early of 20th century and 21st century. Functional expression was reinforced through the lightening of design and materials in the early of 20th century, but through using bias cutting high tech materials in the 21st century.
The purposes of this study were to identify the periodicity of fashion in modern society and to find the correlation between each detail and bustle constitution through the bustle styles that have been recently revived. For the study of periodicity, fashion plates or pictures in Vogue or in the books related Vogue since 1930 were selected, and were analyzed into bell, tubular and bustle silhouettes that were devided by Young (1937). And for the study of the correlation of detail and bustle constitution, fashion plates and pictures that were related to the bustle in the 19th century and the 20th century were selected, and according to the epoch (19C, 20C) and the use (daytime dress or evening dress), each of them was analyzed. The results were as follows: 1. After 1930, $24{\sim}33$ year amplitude was founded at tubular and bell shape, that proved shorter cycles than Young's. 2. In each characters of clothing details, deep decolletage, undivided waistline, spaced bodice in daytime dress were partly identified the characteristics of 20th century costume. 3. The form of bustle was converted from the complex ornament of the 19th century to the simple shape of the 20th century. In other words, it is necessary that the definition of bustle be changed not the previous definition as the silhouette and instrument but that as the emphasis dimension. 4. The dimensions that showed difference at daytime dress and evening dress were 'existence of collar', 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve' for 19th century, and 'neckline', 'length of sleeve', 'kind of sleeve,' 'length of skirt' for 20th century. 5. Correlations with the bustle constitution and details were shown at bodice and waistline with the complex bustle in the 19th century and at collar and neckline with the simple bustle in the 20th century.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.11
no.1
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pp.133-153
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2009
Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.
21th century is a era of new pandemic. We are facing a new challenge and need a new way of approach. But eastern medicine and western medicine is clinging to their own way and have no intention to hear other one's opinion. Before the invention of the vaccination, smallpox has always been a major problem. Intellectuals in every country tried their best to find the treatment for the smallpox, and for Europian, didn't hesitate to borrow some knowledge of the pagon. Romans adopted the Galens concept, running away from the epidemic lesion. Christianity made smallpox Saints, and later adopted Razes heat therapy. But in the 17th century, these methods didn't turn out well, so they needed a new way of approach. By this movement, they had adopted the Chinese inoculation concept and invented a vaccination, By studying the effort of the Europian intellectuals who had tried their best to find the treatment for the smallpox until 17th century, we might get a glimps of wisdom which they had shown us. By this paper we can feel the passion to learn new techniques and their open mind and courage, which might be also needed in the 21th century, era of new pandemic.
The purpose of this study was to identify external form and internal symbolism of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion. Documentary studies and objective studies were done with descriptive, inductive and content analytic methods. In documentary research, concepts about culture, dress as a cultural sub-system, the from of dress, and the gender symbolism of dress were reviewed. In objective research, oriental fashion photographs in $\ulcorner$Vogue$\lrcorner$ during 1969-1989 were selected and analyzed, for the descriptions of samples, the form of dress, the perception of waist parts, the dressing manner. The synthetic results were as followes; 1. There were the geographical and national terms such as east, Orient, China, India, Japan, and so on in the descriptions of samples; and there were the costume terms such as herem, kimono, pyjama or pajama, sarong, and so on in the descriptions of samples. 2. The from of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was identified with draped type. This can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to reveal body figure through dress, therefore, for the long time, sustaining draped type of dress has been. 3. The perception of waist part in oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion was not made. So, it can be interpreted that in orient, there was no desire to distinguish both sexes through the emphasis of waist part in dress. 4. The dressing manners of oriental dress on the 20th century western fashion were wearing of trouser and layering mainly, symbolizing the confusion of gender distinction through dress.
"Classified Assemblage of Medical Prescriptions(醫方類聚)" is a valuable material which can explain about historical records of East Asian medicine till 15th century. We can also konw what were regarded as important idea by contemporary doctors of Korean in 'Chosun' dynasty. And, Epilepsy is the one of the olddest diseases with a humankind history for a long time. All the concetps of disease including epilepsy in East Asia has been developed and specilized. So, we can find out some valuable facts from Epilepsy section in "Classified Assemblage of Medical Prescriptions". First, 'Epilepsy' was mixed with 'Mad', 'Spasm' before 7th century but after than, it had been divided into in detail. Since 14th century, we can find out that it was separated with 'Spasm' completely. In conclusion, 'Epilepsy' concept in "Classified Assemblage of Medical Prescriptions" at 15th century is similar with mordern 'Epilepsy' concept. Second, We can find out that 'Epilepsy disease' was divided into 'Five epilepsy' before 7th century, and divided into 'external cause', 'internal cause', 'external & internal cause' in 12th century. And, it also was divided into 'yin' or 'yang' epilepsy. So, 'Epilepsy' concept in " Classified Assemblage of Medical Prescriptions" at 15th century can be divided into 'yin' or 'yang' generally, and also it is similar with 'Acute and slow shock'. Especially, 'yinyang' of epilepsy is related to organs & bouls, depth & shallow, interior & exterior, not cold & heat definitely. From now on, the researches about how it had been understood in East Asia can help to find out modern significance of Korean medicine. and, it would be helpful for comprehensive study about "Classified Assemblage of Medical Prescriptions" from these researches in each section.
Rice alcoholic beverages, cheongju and beopju, which are recorded in "Koryodokyung", "Koryosageolyo", and "Koryosa", were used in national and royal ceremonies, and yakju was used in the Palgwanhoi ritual. In the late $11^{th}$century, King Munjong imported hwaju and haenginjabeopju from the royal family of the Song Dynasty. Alcoholic beverages in the early $12^{th}$century included the medical use for kings, such as gyehyangeoju, which the Emperor of the Song Dynasty sent to King Yejong, baekjainju, which was sent to King Myeongjong for his health, and yangju, which is goat milk fermented alcohol from the nomads in the northern regions. In the early$13^{th}$ century there was also dongrak, which is a horse-milk fermented alcohol, grape wine sent from Yuan to King Chungryeol in the late $13^{th}$ century, and sangjonju, a type of special cheongju sent from Yuan in the early $14^{th}$ century. Baekju from Yuan was recorded in oral traditions, which suggests that soju, which is distilled cheongju, was consumed in the late $14^{th}$ century. Gold and silver wares for alcoholic beverages had important political, social, and economic meanings as national gifts to other countries and internally as the king's royal gift to his subjects. In the late $14^{th}$ century, soju was prohibited, and the use of gold and silver wares for alcoholic beverages was banned at the same time. This study examined the historical characteristics of the use of traditional rice alcoholic beverages, the emotional preference for foreign alcoholic beverages, and the gold and silver wares used for alcoholic beverages Koryo Dynasty.
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