• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.168-172
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• 2006

Curcuma longa L. of Zingiberaceae family, has been reported to have radical scavenging activity and antiinflammatory effect. On these facts, biological activity and whitening effect were examined to evaluate a bioactivity of the extracts of Curcumma longa L. by extraction conditions as a possible pharmaceutical material. When compared extraction methods, supercritical extraction was the best showing various biological activities and whitening effect. The highest electron donating ability $(89%\;at\;1,000{\mu}g/ml)$ were detected and SOD-like activity was inhibited up to $95%\;at\;500{\mu}g/ml$ in supercritical extraction. To evaluate the whitening effect, tyrosinase inhibitory activity was conducted 89% of tyrosinase inhibitory effect examined at $1,000\;{\mu}g/ml$. From these results, we suggest that the supercritical extracts from Curcuma longa L. is useful for cosmetic ingredients.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.3
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• pp.213-225
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• 2024

In this study, norbixin loaded elastic liposomes (NELs) containing norbixin were prepared by changing the ratio (0.25 to 1 mg/mL) of sucrose stearate (SS), a surfactant, to evaluate changes in physical properties, skin permeability, light stability, and antioxidant activity. The average diameter of the NELs ranged from 80.6 to 113.8 nm, with zeta potential from 22.2 to 33.9 mV, deformability from 7.3 to 16.1, and loading efficiency from 40.5 to 58.6%. In the 0.05% norbixin-loaded elastic liposome, the highest loading efficiency, zeta potential, and deformability were observed in 1 mg/mL of SS (NEL-5). Under blue LED (10 W/m²), NEL showed higher photostability and antioxidant activity compared to unencapsulated norbixin. Due to its high stability and encapsulation efficiency, NEL-5 formulation was subsequently used for transdermal permeation. Furthermore, the NEL-5 has been shown to retain more in the stratum corneum of the skin than general liposome and 1,3-butylene glycol solution. These results confirm that the use of SS as a surfactant can stabilize the physicochemical properties of NELs and efficiently deliver active ingredients to the stratum corneum.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.101-109
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• 2003

Provitamin $B_5$ liquid crystal ($PVB_5$-LC) was the new emulsion system to enhance moisturizing activity on the skin. In this study, it should be mentioned that PVB5-LC could be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin (HL) in oil-in water (O/W) emulsion. The key ingredient of humectants was contained 2% of provitamin $B_5$ ($PVB_5$) into the $PVB_5$-LC. The best suitable compositions of $PVB_5$-LC were made from 4.0 wt% of HL, 4.0 wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0 wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) and 2.0 wt% of glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0 wt% of cyclomethicone (CMC), 3.0 wt% of isononanoate (ININ), 3.0 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCTG), 3.0 wt% of macadamia nut oil (MNO) as emollients. As the analytical result of $PVB_5$-LC, it could know that the distribution range of particle size was 0.14 to 12.37 m level (mean size 3.24 m). It was certified the multi lamellar phase around the droplet of liquid crystal when observed the droplet particles through a polarization microscope. And it clinically was tested the effectiveness of moisturizing activity (in-vivo) compared with control sample (O/W emulsion). The effectiveness of moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC with Skincon-200EX after 6 hours went up 49.0% (p<0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 25.7% (p<005, n=20). Also, in case of Comeometer CM-825, the moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC after 6 hours rose 36.6% (p<0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 10.8%. Therefore, it was known that the effectiveness moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC with HL was remarkably superior compared with O/W emulsion cream.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.2
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• pp.111-115
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• 2007

It is inevitable to use germicidal agents like parabens, imidazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin to preserve the cosmetics. Although effective in reducing microblological contamination, chemical preservatives are irritative, allergenic and even toxic to human skin. So it is needed to decrease or eliminate usage of preservatives in cosmetic products Glycerin, butylene glycol (BG), prorylene glycol (PG), and dipropylene glycol (DPG) are widely used in cosmetics as skin conditioning agent or solvents. At high concentrations, they have antimicrobial activities, but deteriorate product quality like sensory feeling or safety. The purpose of study is to evaluate the effects of polyols on antimicrobial and preservative efficacy and confirm whether using adjusted polyols can decrease the contents of preservatives without deterioration of the quality of cosmetics. Effects of common polyols on antimicrobial activities of general preservatives were measured. BG and PG significantly (p < 0.05) increased activities of preservatives, but glycerin influenced little. It was inferred from the regression analysis of the results with S. aureus that adding 1% of PG increased activities of preservatives up to $2.1{\sim}8.4 %$ and BG improved activities of preservatives up to $1.8{\sim}8.4 %$. The challenge test results for oil in water lotions and creams showed that BG and PG improved the efficacy of preservative systems up to 40 % at a range of $5.5{\sim}9.9 %$, but glycerin had little effect on it. The measured rates of improvement were analogous to the inferences from regression analysis. It can be concluded that is possible to reduce total chemical preservatives up to 40 %, consequently improve the safety and sensory quality of cosmetics with the precision control of polyols. Added to that, using this paradigm, low preservative contents, praraben-free system, and even preservative-free systems can be expected in the near future.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.211-219
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• 2004

Yew (Taxus cuspidata Sieb.) chose that grow as medicine, food, decorative plant in Korea's Kyong-Gi province surroundings. Extracts of yew extracted leaf of 250g and stems of 300g with 1,3-butylene glycol (l,3-BG), propylene glycol (PG) and water. As results, external appearance of leaf extract of yew was slightly brown clear extract. The pH was 5.3${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.012${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was l.375${\pm}$0.05. Also, appearance of stem's extract was slightly brown clear extract, and the pH was 5.4${\pm}$0.5, and specific gravity was 1.016${\pm}$0.05, and refractive index was 1.358${\pm}$0.05. Oil of yew separated from seeds, and extracted polysaccharide high purity from fruits. As a result, specific gravity of oil was 0.987, and obtained 40.0% of yield. Total polyphenols amount of yew extract is detected 0.563% in leaves, 0.325% in stems, whereas total tannins amount contained 0.054% and 0.037% each in leaves and stems. As effect in cosmetics, the anti-oxidative effect by DPPH method is 75.0% in leaves, and stems was 64.0%. Collagen synthesis rate was shown high activity by 54.16% in stem's extract, 33.18% in leaves' extract. Also, PPE-inhibitory activities were 13.7% and 23.5% each in leaves and stems. Anti-inflammatory effect of yew seed oil displayed superior effect of 41% than control. Polysaccharide's molecular weight that is gotten from fruits was 5${\times}$10$^4$-3${\times}$10$\^$5/ dalton, and got 20.0${\pm}$5% of yield.

• Polymer(Korea)
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.347-355
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• 2013

In this study, the porous cellulose hydrogel as a carrier to enhance the skin delivery of quercetin and its glycoside, rutin known as flavonoid antioxidants was prepared and its properties were investigated. The optimum cellulose hydrogel for quercetin and rutin was made by the reaction of 2 wt% cellulose with 12% ECH. In the release test of the hydrogel containing the flavonoids, the release of quercetin was diffusion-controlled at $10{\sim}500{\mu}M$, but rutin was released by the erosion of hydrogel system at $10{\sim}50{\mu}M$. Both the encapsulation efficiency and release amount of rutin in hydrogel were higher than quercetin. However, in skin permeation experiment using Franz diffusion cell, quercetin showed higher skin permeation capacity than rutin. The hydrogel containing flavonoids showed remarkable transdermal permeation than the control group. These results suggest that porous cellulose hydrogel is potential drug delivery system to enhance transdermal permeation of water-insoluble flavonoid antioxidants.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.80-98
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• 2002

Taxus cuspidata Sieb selected cultivation as drug, food and decorative plant in Kyong-gi province in Korea. As a manufacturing method, there were extracted from 250g of dried-leaf and 300g of dried-stem with each 200g of BG, PG and water (to 100) mixing for 72 hour at 50$\pm$5$\^{C}$ and then they were filtered by 400-mesh filter. Appearance of extract of leaves was slight brown, pH=5.3$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.012$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.375$\pm$0.05. And appearance of extract of stems was slightly dark brown, pH=5.4$\pm$0.5, gravity was 1.016$\pm$0.05, and a reflective index was 1.358$\pm$0.05. It was extracted oil from Taxus seed. Gravity was 0.922$\pm$0.05 and it should be obtained the 27.0$\pm$0.5% of yield. The molecular weight of polysaccharide was about 50,000 to 300,000 dalton and contained 5.0$\pm$1.2% of yield from Taxus fruit. The determinations of total polyphenols in measuring spectropotometer got 0.563% in leaves, and 0.325% in stems, whereas the quantitives of total tannins got 0.054% and 0.037%, respectively. As the effects in Cosmetics by DPPH-method, the antioxidative activities were very strong that the inhibitory ratio showed 75% in leaves and 64% in stems compared with 52% in greentea extract. These are more effective than other plant extracts. The increasing ratio of collagen synthesis rate on the activating fibroblast for extracts of Taxus cuspidata Sieb showed 54.16% (stems) and 33.18% (leaves), To improve the skin elasticity, PPE(porcine pancreatic elastase)-inhibitory activities were strongly effective as 13,7% (stems), 23.5% (leaves) and 66%(seed). Anti-inflammatory acitvity of seed oil was very the above 41% stronger than SG was 24% of anti-Inflammatory as a control sample.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.159-165
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• 2004

This study described about method that forms liquid crystal gel (LCG) by main ingredient with hydrogenated lechin (HL) in O/W emulsion system. Result of stability test is as following with most suitable LCG's composition. Composition of LCG is as following, to form liquid crystal, an emulsifier used 4.0wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CA) by 4.0wt% of HL as a booster. Moisturizers contained 2wt% of glycerin and 3.0wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG). Suitable emollients used 3.0wt% of cyclomethicone, 3.0wt% of isononyl isononanoate (ININ), 3.0wt% of cerpric/carprylic triglycerides (CCTG), 3.0wt% of macademia nut oil (MNO) in liquid crystal gel formation. On optimum conditions of LCG formation, the pHs were formed all well under acidity or alkalinity conditions (pH=4.0-11.0). Considering safety of skin, pH was the most suitable 6.0${\pm}$1.0 ranges. The stable hardness of LCG formation appeared best in 32 dyne/$\textrm{cm}^2$. Particle of LCG is forming size of 1-20$\mu\textrm{m}$ range, and confirmed that the most excellent LCG is formed in 1-6$\mu\textrm{m}$ range. According to result that observe shape of LCG with optical or polarization microscope, LCG could was formed, and confirmed that is forming multi -layer lamellar type structure around the LCG. Moisturizing effect measured clinical test about 20 volunteers. As a result, moisturizing effect of LCG compares to placebo cream was increased 36.6%. This could predicted that polyol group is appeared the actual state because is adsorbed much to round liquid crystal droplets to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. It could predicted that polyol group is vast quantity present phase that appear mixed because is adsorbed to round liquid crystal to multi-lamellar layer's hydrophilic group. This LCG formation theory may contribute greatly in cosmetics and pharmacy industry development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Science and Nutrition
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• v.42 no.9
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• pp.1378-1386
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• 2013

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common skin disease characterized by chronic and relapsing inflammatory dermatitis with immunological disturbances. In spite of the continuous increase in the incidence of AD, it is regrettable that till date there is no effective treatment to treat the same. Therefore, the present study was designed to examine the possible anti-atopic effects of Castanea crenata inner shell extracts fermented by Lactobacillus bifermentans (FCS) in 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB) induced AD in NC/Nga mice. Based on the results of HPLC analysis, we found that FCS contains anti-inflammatory factors such as gallic acid (10.18 mg/g) and ellagic acid (2.14 mg/g). The groups that we have used in this study included 0.1%, 1%, 5% fermented Castanea crenata inner shell extracts (FCS 0.1, FCS 1, FCS 5), 1,3-butylene glycol treated control (AD), and normal mice. After topical FCS treatment, we observed that the clinical severity score for AD was lower in both the FCS 1 and FCS 5 groups than the AD group. We also proved beyond doubt that there was improvement of melanin, erythema and skin moisture indices in the FCS 5 group. Spleen index and gene expression levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-$1{\beta}$ and TNF-${\alpha}$ were significantly decreased in the FCS 5 group compared to the AD group (P<0.05). Further, we also found that the level of serum immunoglobulin E (IgE) in the FCS-treated group was decreased in a concentration-dependent manner. The results of our study suggest that FCS can be effectively used as a cosmeceutical ingredient for both the prevention and improvement of AD.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.41 no.4
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• pp.315-324
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• 2015

In this study, we prepared liquid crystal emulsion composed of amphiphilic substance $C_{14-22}$ alcohol, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside, behenyl alcohol and studied liquid crystal emulsion of properties and in vitro skin permeation. The results of formulation experiments, the clear liquid crystalline structure was observed in the ratio of $C_{14-22}$ alcohol 0.8%, $C_{12-20}$ alkyl glucoside 3.2%, behenyl alcohol 4% in the formulation. The results of physical property measurements, the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion and O/W emulsion applied as a control group was respectively $1871.26{\sim}1.15Pa{\cdot}s$, $1768.69{\sim}1.14Pa{\cdot}s$ and the shear stress of O/W emulsion was 178.68 ~ 909.18 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 190.45 ~ 919.38 Pa. The storage modulus of O/W emulsion was 3428.53 ~ 9157.45 Pa, that of liquid crystal emulsion was 4487.82 ~ 8195.59 Pa. The tan (delta) value of O/W emulsion which means a ratio of viscosity to elasticity was 0.43 ~ 0.19, and that of liquid crystal emulsion was 0.23 ~ 0.25. The water content value on the skin for liquid crystal emulsion was significantly higher from 1 h to 6 h compared with that of O/W emulsion and the transepidermal water loss on the skin was significantly superior in skin moisture loss suppression from 30 min to 4 h compared with that of O/W emulsion. The results of skin permeation using glycyrrhizic acid, the result of skin permeation amount of liquid crystal emulsion for 24 h was $64.58{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of O/W emulsion was $37.07{\mu}g/cm^2$, that of butylene glycol solution was $41.05{\mu}g/cm^2$. Hourly permeability results, it is showed that skin penetration effect of the liquid crystal emulsion increases after 8 h. These results suggest that liquid crystal emulsions are effective for skin moisturizing effect and function as potential efficacy ingredient delivery system for the transdermal delivery.