• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 2012

The Original forms of the ancient clothing have been evolved in various designs and showed each unique formativeness based on the basic principles of origami. The purpose of this study was to analyze the basic clothing formativeness in the original forms of the ancient clothing based on the principles of origami. The methods of this study were to identify significant relevant ancient clothing figures with each unique formativeness based on the principles of origami and analyze the formativeness characters and values through comprehensive literature reviews on topic-related books and theses on a foundation of triangulation of observer. The results were as follows: The significant ancient clothing figures with principles of origami were identified as kalasiris, chiton, chlamys, toga, dalmatica, paludamentium, and lorum. The formative principles applied in the ancient clothing figures were identified as exaggerated measurements, folding and unfolding, bending, and angle. And the formative characters and values were identified as potential drape realization, potential silhouette realization, potential three-dimensional design optimality, and potential three-dimensional formativeness realization. The result of this study may be used for a newer approach for the fundamental digging of clothing formativeness in advance.

• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study is aims to study the background of how the shape of the wooden shoes developed and worn by Koreans and Japanese in the ancient times by sorting and examining the types and shapes. Relevant bibliography, which are mainly related to the excavated wooden shoes from 3 B.C.E to C.E. 8., were used as research materials. The formation of wooden shoes required easy access to raw materials -which is trees- for production. According to the analysis, both Korea and Japan made the flat wooden shoes using cuboid wood. Both countries bore a hole on a specific location to distinguish the right foot and left foot, however the style of the heel was different in the two countries. The slip-on(Undu-hyeong) wooden shoes were also common in both countries. The slip-on had no-heels and was made by digging-out a piece of the cuboid wood. Some slip-ons made by the Japanese had furrows on the bottom, and they were known to make different types of the slip-on wooden shoes depending on the purpose. Observation of the wearing methods show that commonality can be found between the wooden shoes of Korea and Japan, and this indicates that cultural exchanges between the Silla/Baekje and Japan took place from the 4th to the 6th century. Also, the flat wooden shoes in Japan developed rapidly, as the shoes became an integral part of its life and culture, which was closely tied to agriculture. Eventually, due to the difference in climate and life-style, the slip-ons became the primary type of wooden shoes in Korea, while the flats became the main type of wooden shoes in Japan. It is, however, clear that as the relationship between the two countries became closer, the cultural exchanges regarding the wooden shoes were considerable.

• 복식
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• 제62권8호
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• pp.81-99
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• 2012

This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.

• 복식
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• 제19권
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• pp.175-194
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• 1992

Le Proche-Orient est le pays de la Bible, Le peuple He breu ancien, appartenant la race des S mits s mi-nomades, est venu avec Abraham, de m sopotamie en Palestine, terre de Canaan. Nous avons consid r les v tements du peuple des anciens H breux en nous basant sur la Bible et en observant des peintures murales et des bas-reliefs des divers payes de l'ancienne poque, Pour comprendre l' volution des v tements des gens de la pr sente r gion palestinienne, nous avons tudi les v tements traditionnels de la race b douine qui m nent jusqu' maintenant une vie nomade dans le m nent jusqu' maintenant une vie nomade dans le d sert, parce que nous n'avons pas pu connaitre le processus d' volution des v tements apr s l'ancienne poque la suite d' v nements historiques compliques. En conclusion, nous pouvons nous r sumer comme suit: 1) Nous pensons que la kimlah, costume important du peuple h breu ancien est devenu abajeh, manteau des B douins, puisque ces v tements servent prot ger le corps lors des changments de temps, et la nuit on les utilise comme couverture et comme sac pour y mettre des objets, et comme tente lors su travail. en un mot, les fonctions de la Simlah et celles de l'abajeh sont les memes l' poque ancienne et maintenant. 2) Nous pensons que la forme et l'utilisation de la Kethoneth ayant une forme de tunique et de la thob des B douins sont presque semblable. La kethoneth et la thob sont la tuniqu importante que portent jusqu' maintenant tous les peuples du Proche-Orient. 3) Comme on le voit dans la Bible, les femmes du peuple h breu et celles des B douins utilisent le voile pour couvrir la e te, et se servent d'accessoires pour d corer leur corps. A l'avenir, les vVtements des Palestiniens, dans une recherche pous approfondie, feront l'objet de a 2 me partie de l' tude des costumes du Proche-Orient.

• 감성과학
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.83-100
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• 2019

본 연구의 목적은 오래전부터 한국인이 애용해 온 기본 도형을 분석하여 의미와 상징성을 밝히고 그 유형을 분류하는 것이다. 선조들은 원, 네모, 세모 형태를 선호하였는데 한글에 'ㅇ, ㅁ, ㅅ'가 존재하는 사실이 이를 뒷받침한다. 이를 위해 고조선부터 삼국시대에 이르기까지 복식과 유물 등에 나타난 기본 도형을 고찰하였다. 연구방법으로는 도서, 인터넷 및 사진자료 등을 분석하였으며 도자기, 청동기, 복식 등 다양한 곳에 나타난 도형의 연결고리를 찾았다. 그 연구결과 첫째, 원은 하늘, 해, 달, 별, 청동거울, 얼굴 등을 상징하는데 일찍이 천문관측이 발달했던 사실과 원형제단이나 제사장의 표징인 원형 청동거울이 이를 뒷받침한다. 둘째, 땅(地)을 상징하는 것은 네모라고 보았다. 하늘과 땅신에게 모두 제사를 지냈었고 네모는 부족 공동체의 안녕과 풍요를 담은 현실을 의미하는 형태이다. 마름모형이 더 많이 애용되었는데 이는 힘을 상징하는 세모가 두 개나 들어있는 형태이기 때문이라고 추측한다. 셋째, 빗살무늬 토기에서도 나타나지만 뫼 '산(山)'과 사람 '인(人)' 및 모자나 마늘의 형태 또는 나 '사(?)' 등으로부터 세모가 파생되었다고 보는데 하늘, 땅 다음으로 사람이 중요하다는 고대인의 사고에서 발생한 것으로 본다. 아름다운 유산인 기본 도형의 연구를 통해 한국역사의 오랜 전통과 정신을 이해하고 새로운 창조문화로 이어지길 기대한다.

• 복식
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.15-30
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• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.

• 복식
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• 제54권6호
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• pp.101-117
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• 2004

Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that show comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satisfaction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.45-61
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• 2003

Parhae and ancient Japan officially exchanged at 34 times during the period from AD.727 to AD.920. The envoys of each nation also sent the other nation with some items. The names of the items are identified by the historical records; those which Parhae presented to ancient Japan were leader shoes, which is called AmMoHwa(암모화), belt(대) various leaders and those which ancient Japan presented to Parhae were formal uniforms[관복], various textiles, coronet, shoes. We can recognize that the leader items of Parhae are frequently recorded as the gift to ancient Japan because they were the main manufactures in Parhae at that time. In addition, the government of ancient Japan gave the Parhae's envoys a high rank, five-grade(5위) and noble costumes like JinKaeEui(진개의) and so on were well-matched with their high rank. While being official exchanges, it is supposed that there were lots of other unofficial exchanges. Historically, in Japan, the time came under Nara(나양) era(AD.719~AD.794) and the beginning of PyungAn(평안) era(AD.794~AD.1192) and in the same way in Parhae, King Mun(737-793) reign. One of the features at that time is that Tang's culture was introduced to ancient Japan positively. Since Nara era strongly accepted Tang's culture, I assume that Nara costumes were affected by Tang's therefore they are the same as Tang's. In the same way, Parhae's costumes are the same as Tang's, too. The point is, it is expected that the costumes of Parhae which were exchanged with ancient Japan are similar to those of Nara by the medium of Tang's costumes.

• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.101-115
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• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.640-651
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• 2000

In this Paper we examined the clothing & ornaments of Egyptian gods greatly related to religion in a mode of every living through illustrated data of relics and investigated their differences and similarities by comparing the clothing & ornaments of gods with one of royal families. First of all, the crown of gods shows various forms in accordance with is roles and symbols. Second, the clothing & ornaments of male gods is significantly different from one of king in that for the most part they wore loin-cloth and girdle on sheath-skirt. Third, goddess was wearing the same sheath-skirt as queen. Fourth, kalasiris which king and queen wore is not almost founded in costume of gods. Fifth, the typical accessories in Egypt, that is, passiums, bracelets and rings are founded in the clothing and ornaments of all gods. Sixth, gods seems not to be dressed in sandals. Seventh, a mustache of king is appeared in a form of large and straight line, but one of god is appeared in a form of small and bended line. Eighth, lion tale ornament and fail are founded in the clothing & ornaments of male god mainly and a stick is founded in one of goddess. Finally, ankh which is representative of eternal life is an ornament only gods are wearing.