• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.3
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• pp.77-92
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• 2014

The purpose of this research is to examine the expression methods of Haute Couture designers' high value-added jacket designs, In order to achieve this, the positions and sizes of the design component items of tailored jackets designed by Haute Couture designers from the 1940s to the 1970s were analyzed. The results of the analysis are as follows. First, the silhouette changed while leading the contemporaneous fashions, and such changes could be confirmed by the width and length of the jacket's shoulder, chest, waist, and hem that determine the silhouette. Particularly, the length of the chest changed which signifies that the depth of the armhole was playing an important role in the production of high value-added jackets in relation to the sleeves and the fit of jackets. Second, the position and the size of the dart are the components that can express the fit of a jacket and the designer's creativity, The starting point position of the dart and the position passing by waist, and the position of the end of the dart were placed in the position beyond B.P. depending on the designer's creativity and techniques, deriving the changes of the silhouette and creating high value-added jackets. Third, the tailored collar, which was a three-dimensional component made up of the upper collar, gorge line, lapel, and break line, was an important component that could express high value-added jackets. Changes in the width and the height of the break line position of the sides of the neck were represented as changes in the neck size of the collar, and changes in the vertex locations of the upper collar corner-point, the gorge line (the corner-point of the lapel and V zone) were also represented as diverse tailored collar designs. And the differences in the width and the length of each component of the collar were related to each other and represented as changes in the slope and angle of the collar outline. Fourth, the changes in sleeve designs of the jacket were in such items as the width of the sleeve opening, the width of the sleeve hem, and the length of the sleeve, and were represented as diverse sleeve designs such as widened sleeve opening types, and straight line types.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.455-463
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• 2020

This researcher has sorted out the development process of death aesthetics contained in human art through advanced research. This research is a follow-up study of related research, which studies the aesthetic meaning of death in Alexander McQueen's fashion works. This study first classifies the aesthetic characteristics of death, and then analyzes and sorts out the aesthetics of death in Alexander McQueen's clothing works based on this. The results of this study are as follows: first, the aesthetic manifestations of death are divided into three categories: reproducibility, symbolic and religious. Among them, the representation of reproducibility includes the representation of real objects and the representation of virtual objects, and the symbolic performance includes two types of external performance and internal performance. Second, in Alexander McQueen's works, the reproducibility of death was mainly reflected by virtual stage scenes and costumes. Thirdly, the symbolic death is not only reflected in the skeletons and blood etc. directly related to the death of the body, but also in the various emotions and psychological states caused by the death. Fourth, the religious nature of death was represented in Alexander McQueen's works through such representative things as crosses and religious stories.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-82
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• 2016

Consumers tend to perceive the shoes as just their footwear to protect and comfort foot and fashion products to decorate and express their self-images. Even though online market research analysis indicated shoes consumption is important in daily life of consumers, there is limited research that was conducted specifically on shoes e-market. The research investigates the process of shoes' e-impulse buying focusing on the effects of shopping orientation, marketing stimulus and consumers' perceived risk in shoes market at Internet. A total of 408 self-administered questionnaires were obtained from universities students, who had experienced the e-impulse buying of shoes at least once for the last six months. Results confirmed that consumers who had higher hedonic shopping orientation or brand shopping orientation were more likely to consider the marketing stimuli (e.g., promotion stimuli and product stimuli), whereas consumers who had higher economic shopping orientation were consider the lower marketing stimuli and the more perceived functional risk in the e-shopping context of shoes. For shoes, marketing stimulus had directly positive effects on e-impulse buying, while consumers' perceived risk had no significant effects on e-impulse buying. The findings suggest that the market stimulus, which is affected by consumers' shopping orientation, is an important factor in triggering e-impulse buying of shoes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.5
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• pp.113-134
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• 2001

This study was carried out with an objective to prepare the framework of conformity for the 21st century modern fashion, which is interactive with mankind, based on a position that the 21st century contemporary fashion with its amalgamating trend of diversified artistic forms may not be elucidated on a standpoint centering on one certain modality. The hybrid fashion trend of historical modality which provides freedom and satisfaction in creation of an individuals expressive power in expressing true desire of mans inside through man-centered thought of the times has made multifarious motives of the past and present fragmentary. It thus extracts inner divisions and the concept of consolidation through three-dimensional form. Modern fashion is newly interpreted by the material and details of high technologies. and is harmonized by mix and match with various expressions. By having it, it is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments. Modern fashion is being expressed together with many types of dresses and ornaments by new interpretations with the material and details of high technologies and by being harmonized with mix and match with various expressions. The hybrid fashion design trend of regional elements formed by stimuli and contacts of diverse local culture by globalization of network that was achieved by scientific technologies of the contemporary information society has disintegrated varied boundaries in the conventional culture by the latest communication technology-new media on the basis of newly created culture. The fact that regional elements could be expressed as if they were interrelated without each being deprived of originality may be explained with an interpretation on pluralism. The hybrid fashion design trend of cultural aspect, which manifests in the background of scientific technological culture as it transcends the societal-cultural boundaries based on the de-centralization theory of Frederic Jameson, has supplemented the imperfect meanings through conversional correlation with other forms and internal program changes. The middle stratal and polyhedral characteristics are seen as each cultural element is dismantled and reassembled by application of 'multiple-time point expression'. Design forming method is not to bring destruction from outside, but to embrace instability and chaos through radical dismantling of the inside. and to pursue diversity and openness. Thus. it is implemented by an approach that takes the role of design process. In communication of discontinuity, continuity was dismantled through forms of mixing, overlap, perversion, insertion and coincidence.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.33
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• pp.55-72
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• 1997

우리나라 복식산업의 전문인력 양식은 주로 대학교나 전문학원에서 이루어지고 있으며 수적인면에서는 충분한 인력이 양성되고 있다. 그러나 질적인 면에서 산업체에서 요구되는 역량을 가진 전문인은 부족한 편이다. 이에 따라 산업체의 요구에 부합하는 인력야성을위하여 교육과정의 개선이 절실히 요구되고 있다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 실기교육 산학협력 및 산업체 현장실습이 활발히 이루어지고 있는 영국의 복식관련학과에 대하여 조사해 봄으로써 우리 교육의 개선방향을 모색하고자 한다. 영구의 경우 다양한 자격증 및 학위과정이 개설되어있으나 본 연구에서는 우리나라 학사학위에 해당되는 BA 및 Bsc만대상으로 하였으며 설문조사 문헌조사 및 사례연구를 통하여 현황 및 교과과정을 분석하였다 영국의 복식관련학과들은 그 교과과정 및 내용에 따라 크게 6개 전공분야로 분류되었으며 각 하과는 다시 세분화되어 전문성이 있는 교육이 이루어지고 있었다 또한 수업연한 및 과정의 형태에 따라 5개 유형으로 분류되었다, 이유형 중 특히 일년간의 현장실습을 학위과정으로 포함시켜 의무적으로 산업체에 근무하도록 되어있는 Sandwic Mode는 적극적인 산학협력의 한 형태로 매우 효율적으로 평가되는 교육체계이며 여러다른 학문 분야에서도 널리 활용되고 있는 체계이다. 교수진의 경우 전임교원이 수적인 면에서 다소 부족한 것으로 나타났으나 관련 산업체 인사 등을 시간강사로 고용함으로써 이를 보완 할 뿐 아니라 산학연계를 이루고 있었다. 또한 전임교원의 경우 주로 학사 혹은 석사의 학력을 가지고있었다. 그러나 모든 전임교수 뿐 아니라 시간강사의 경우도 산업체 경력을 필수 적으로 가지고있어 고학력위주의 우리나라 실정과는 매우 상이했다. 교과과정에 대한 사례연구에서 직물디자인에 집중된 2개 과의 교과과정을 보았으며 그중 한 개 과는 다시 편물 프린트 및 직물 디자인의 3분야로 세분화되어 심도 있는 교육이 이루어질 수 있는 것을 살펴보았다 또한 다른 3개의 예에서 볼수있듯이 2개 이상의 전공코스를 도입하여 공통과목과 전공 코스 과목을 둠으로써 시설 및 인적 자원의 활용 등 운영상 효율성을 추구함을 알수 있었다 또한 학생들의 경우 전문화된 코스의 선택을 할수 있게 하였다 이런 실례는 전문인력양성이 매우 필요하고 따라서 전공코스제의 도입의 필요성이 대두되고 있는 이시점에서 매우 유용하게 이용될수 있으리라고 생각된다. 영구의 교육이 우리나라 실정에 그대로 적용될 수는 없지만 본 연구 결과를 바탕으로 다음과 같은 시사점을 고려하여 우리교육을 개선해 나갈 수 있으리라고 생각한다. 첫째 교수진 인적 물적상황 및 지역적 상황등을 분석하여 각 대학별로 그 특성에 맞는 세분화되고 심도있는 전공교육과정을 개발 발전시켜 야 할 것이다 둘째 산업체 방문 산업체인사와의 면담 및 특강 등 산학협력을 좀더 적극적으로 모색하여야 할 것이다. 셋째 학생들의 산업체 현장 연수를 실질적으로 도입하여 산업체의 인력요구에 적극적으로 대처 할수 있어야 하겠다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.62-77
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• 2008

This study aims to analyze color characteristics centered by women's suit styles that represent masculinity remarkably. Through this, it figures out color's type and continuance availability as a representing tool to express masculinity to provide useful color information which can be applied effectively to various color planning. For this research, related images were collected among women's pants suits appeared in $2004{\sim}2006's$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection F/W that are most similar to modern man's suit. Among them, the study analyzes 319 pictures where the features of masculinity were represented effectively. The referred color values were earned by converting $L^*a^*b^*$ values measured through the color extracting tool of Computer program (Adobe Photoshop CS) and color tone characteristic were analyzed by classifying 12 color PCCS and 5 achromatic colors. The result of the study are as follows: First, based on standard of color hue and tone, in terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y were frequently shown up but G, BG series were not found much after analyzing overall women's pants suit color characteristics shown in $2004{\sim}2006$ Paris, London, New York and Milan collection. Second, the color analysis about 3years of $2004{\sim}2006$ tells that achromatic colors have been most widely used in every year. In terms of color hue, PB, YR, Y series were appeared most popular and G, BG classes weren't appeared frequently. In addition, once looking at yearly color tone distribution trend, like overall color tone distribution result, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were highly used as sequential and b, v, dp, sf, ItGy series show low distribution level. And such a distribution level of low and high in frequency has been showed continuously as a similar style. Accordingly, through the study, as a tool to express masculinity in women's suit, achromatic colors like black and white series and PB, YR, Y series color were investigated as most popular uses. And as color tones, Bk, w, dkg, g, p were used frequently.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.13 no.7
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• pp.85-90
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• 2015

Purpose - Global trends play a part to change the structure of the fashion industry. In particular, companies attempting to conduct innovative marketing centering on such products as SPA brands are growing into global companies. SPA stands for "Specialty Store Retailer of Private Label Apparel", meaning its activities are fully integrated from manufacturing through sales, including material procurement design, product, distribution, inventory management, and final sales. For this reason, more understanding of individual corporate profitability is very sensitive to consumer's attitudinal changes. The effects that corporate marketing activities on customer lifetime value through brand attitude were analyzed based on a structural equation model. Rust suggested value equity, brand equity, and relationship equity as customer equity driver. The study examines Chinese consumer because China is the fastest growing fashion market in the world. Research design, data, and methodology - The survey targeted Chinese college student age 20s. Only respondents who had purchased SPA brands in the past year were included for this research. A total of 303, except for 47 missing data of 350 distributed questionnaires were included in this research. The questionnaire is consists of six part to measure value, brand, relationship equity, attitude toward brand, purchase intention and demographic characteristics. This research conducted exploratory factor analysis and reliability test. To verify research hypotheses, structural equation model test was conducted. As for customer equity, diversified models in consideration of the scope of acquisition data, a method of collection of data, influencing factor, and predictability were suggested based on a net present value model. However, the history of customer equity study is relatively short, and sufficient empirical analyses have not been conducted, so more integrated analysis is required. In this study, the concept of driver suggested by Rust was applied to figure out the effects that consumer's attitude has on customer equity. The customer equity driver suggested by them consists of brand equity, value equity, and relationship equity. Results - This study reveals that value equity and brand equity have a positive influence on relationship equity. And, relationship equity has a positive influence on purchase intention through brand attitude. However, value equity and brand equity do not influence on brand attitude. Conclusion - The results of this research generated following implications. First, SPA brands need to take advantage of their value equity such as perceived low price and up-to-date fashion style to attract Chinese young consumer. Second, strong brand equity promises dominants position in the competitive market. As Chinese fashion market grows rapidly, SPA brands can consider branding strategy such as flagship store and celebrity marketing enhancing brand image. Third, the core concept of customer equity strategy is to maintain a relationship with their expecting and existing customers. The relationship equity is built by brand equity and value equity. When SPA brands serves product and service meet with individual customers, customers have intimacy to the brands.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.331-339
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• 2006

PPL(Product Placement) of visual media can change the purchasing behavior of College students. This study aimed to investigate the differences in consumer's conception about PPL among college students and to analyze the relationship between the PPL conception ant fashion innovation/fashion sensitivity of students, resulting into their real purchasing behavior. We surveyed to about 189 college students living near Seoul, with questionnaire about PPL conception, purchase of PPL clothing, satisfaction on PPL clothing, fashion innovation, opinion about PPL, PPL apparel brand to recall, etc. According to dichotomy of college students by fashion innovation, as higher fashion innovative they were, they paid more attention on PPL clothing while watching TV or movie, and they also could recall more PPL apparel brands, and they purchased more PPL clothing. While the students with low fashion innovation had references from the opinion of friends or around people when purchasing their clothing, the students with high fashion innovation did from fashion magazine or PPL clothing. The students who thought that PPL was important and effective on clothing purchasing behavior, answered that their preference to PPL bran4, to the company, and to the product had increased positively, but not to the actor/actress.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.165-174
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• 2011

Recent years have witnessed that IT-convergence technology has become the most important issue in the global market. Along with this trend, demand for PSS(i.e., Product-Service Systems) design has been rapidly increased in the smart clothing market. A case of the PSS design research, this study aimed to identify optimum conditions for weaving of POF-based flexible textile display(abbreviated as "PFTD") for mountaineer wear with safe-guard function regarding luminescent properties. Based on the findings regarding the optimum weaving condition of PFTD, several designs of mountaineer wear were suggested in this study. A total of 15 PFTD samples were prepared under various weaving conditions of weave structures and density of POF, and the luminance values of each sample were measured. As the results, the types of PFTD with structures and density of 'satin 3:1', 'satin 2:1', 'twill 3:1' and 'twill 2:1' indicated relatively higher luminescence. And based on the results and recent sports fashion trends, two suited mountaineering wears applying PFTD were illustrated in this study.