• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

In order to identify tactile sensibility factors of traditional silk fabrics and to provide prediction models for the sensibility factors by mechanical properties, seventeen different traditional silk fabrics were evaluated in terms of both tactile sensation and sensibility by using a modified magnitude estimation line scale Gongdan and Newttong with lower values for surface roughness(SMD), bending rigidity(B), and compression resilience(RC) were rated as softer, smoother, fluffier, and more pliable in tactile sensation than any other traditional silk fabrics whereas Nobangju haying higher B, SMD, and tensile resilience(RT) was touched as crisper, more rustling, and springier. Three different tactile sensibility factors including 'Feminine', 'Natural', and 'Casual' were obtained significantly by grouping fifteen different tactile sensibility descriptors. In the prediction models sensibility 'Feminine' was explained positively by SMD, which was supported by the fact that both Gongdan and Newtton were perceived as more feminine. Sensibility 'Natural' that was felt stronger as for Myoungju and Sa was predicted negatively by both fabric thickness(T) and RT. Finally, RC, elongation at maximum load (EM), and T predicted sensibility 'Casual' negatively, which results in its higher factor scores for Myoungju and Shantung, respectively.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.393-402
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• 2005

Subjective touch sensation for Korean traditional silk fabrics was evaluated, in order to compare tactile sensory aspects of Korean and American subjects and to determine mechanical properties of the fabrics affecting the sensation psychophysically. Eight aspects of touch sensation including hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness, and thickness were rated by semantic deferential scale. The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Both of Koreans and Americans showed fairly similarities to each other in subjective smoothness, coarseness, and crispness. On the contrary, as for coolness and pliability, Koreans were found as feeling the silk fabrics more sensitively than Americans were in that they rated some of modified leno fabrics as very cool and stiff in touch. Coolness and pliability by Koreans were affected mainly by surface and bending properties while those by Americans were determined mostly by compressional and tensile characteristics as well as sulfate properties

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2006

This study was carried out to investigate sound sensation of Korean traditional silk fabrics with similar sound pressure levels (SPL) and to identify secondary physical factors excluding SPL which determine sound sensation of the fabrics. Sounds of the silk fabrics tended to be perceived differently from one another as for some of sensation such as clearness ant roughness. They were felt more strongly in aspects of loudness, roughness, and highness than of softness, sharpness, clearness, and pleasantness. Subjective clearness, roughness, and highness were significantly correlated with some of sound parameters including roughness(z), ${\Delta}L,\;and\;{\Delta}f$. Especially, both of clearness and roughness which were varied among the fabrics were found as determined by ${\Delta}L$. This result means that ${\Delta}L$ as well as roughness(z) and ${\Delta}f$ could be utilized secondary to SPL in order to satisfy some of human sensibility for sound from traditional silk fabrics without variation of physical loudness.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.161-166
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• 1995

Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on protein and cellulose fabric. It contains safflower yellow and carthamin red. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye, while carthamin red is soluble in alkaline condition. Therefore the former was extracted by cold water. Cartamon obtained by adding acidic solution to carthamin red shows the original hue of safflower. In this study, the condition of extraction with bean stem ash solution and dyeing behavior of carthamon in safflower were examined by using the traditional dyeing method. The relationship between the dye-uptake(K/S) of silk and ramie fabric and the various extractions and dyeing conditions was investigated.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.61-69
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• 1999

The dyeing experiments were done by using tannin pigments and herbs for natural fabrics such as ramie, hemp and silk. The anti-bacterial ability and color fastness were examined for dyed fabrics. Dye materials containing tannin pigment such as oak tree leaf showed rich dyeing on ramie, hemp, and silk fabrics when the pH of dye solution is lower as well as the dyeing temperature is higher. In crimson dyeing, the colour of fabric showed red-purple when the crimson pigment was extracted at 40$^{\circ}C$, while yellow-red when extracted above 70$^{\circ}C$. The colour fastness of dye materials containing tannin pigment was excellent showing 3~4 grade or above, while most of those derived from chinese medicine showed poor colour fastness of below 3 grade. The anti-bacterial ability of dye materials derived from chinese medicine was high, since the sappan wood fabric showed low bacteria reduction rate.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.23-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research fabrics, colors, and arrangement of color in Jogak-bo which were developed during the late Chosun dynasty. It is expected that from the analysis of the number, distribution and arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo in the late Chosun we can suggest various color arrangements thoset can be applied to modern fashion are summarized as follows. First, as for the number of colors of Jogak-bo according to material, silk fabrics Jogak-bo used a variety of colors whereas hemp fabrics Jogak-bo mostly used one color showing contrast between silk fabrics Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones. Second, as for the distribution of colors of silk Jogak-bo and hemp fabrics ones, warm colors were used most frequently. On the other hand, fewer achromatic colors were used to silk fabrics Jogak-bo, and they were more applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the use of cold colors, fewer cold colors were applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo compared to silk fabrics Jogak-bo. Third, as for the arrangement of colors, various colors were used in silk fabrics Jogak-bo, but a single color or not more than 1 color was applied to hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. It well demonstrates brilliance and glamour of silk Jogak-bo and stability and unity of hemp fabrics Jogak-bo. As for the arrangement of colors of Jogak-bo, most of Jogak-bo showed contrasting colors and shades, and similar colors and shades were hardly found in silk fabrics Jogak-bo whereas they were frequently found in hemp fabrics Jogak-bo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.486-493
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• 2008

Safflower red colorants extracted by two solvents including the traditional ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution was used for dyeing cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, silk, wool, and nylon fabrics. The effects of extraction solvents on the reflectance, K/S value, and color properties of the dyed fabrics were investigated. Wash/dry cleaning and light colorfastness were evaluated. Reflectance curves of cotton, ramie, viscose rayon, and silk fabrics dyed with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were similar, showing the maximum absorption at 520nm, to that of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by ash solution. The reflectance curves of wool and nylon fabrics were different, showing the maximum absorption at 400nm. K/S values of dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution with the exception of nylon. $L^{*},\;a^{*},\;b^{*}$, and $C^{*}$ of the dyed fabrics with red colorants extracted by $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution were higher than that by ash solution except for $L^{*}$ of nylon and $b^{*}$ of viscose rayon. Color difference(${{\Delta}E}^*$) of the dyed fabrics between ash solution and $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution increased in the order named as cotton, silk, ramie, viscose rayon, wool, and nylon. Regardless of extraction solvents, safflower red colorants produced RP color on cotton, ramie, and nylon, R color on viscose rayon and silk, and YR color on wool. Wash/dry cleaning fastness of the dyed fabrics was high above 3/4 rating but light fastness was very poor. It is considered that the use of $K_{2}CO_{3}$ solution instead of the traditional ash solution would be more effective in terms of color reproducibility and extraction process.