• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.37-47
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• 2019

Recently, due to the increase in skin diseases caused by particulate matter, endocrine disruptor and environmental changes, the trend of development of cosmetic materials has been shifting to the more safe and effective ingredients based on natural materials rather than existing synthetic compounds like steroids and antihistamines. This study aimed to develop a new natural cosmetic materials using oriental herbs such as Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus. First, DPPH assay was performed to examine the antioxidative activity of the herbal extract (Mix) and 98.8% DPPH radical scavenging activity was confirmed at $400{\mu}g/mL$ concentration of it. In order to confirm the whitening efficacy of oriental herbal extracts(mix), the amount of melanin synthesized after stimulation of ${\alpha}-MSH$ with B16F10 cells was measured. Results showed that it was decreased to 27.1% comparing with the only ${\alpha}-MSH$ treated group, which confirmed the whitening efficacy. Also, both nitric oxide(NO) production and iNOS and COX-2 expression were significantly reduced in RAW264.7 macrophages activated by LPS in the presence of the extracts(Mix). The mRNA expression of the inflammatory cytokines such as $IL-1{\alpha}$, $IL-1{\beta}$, IL-6, and $TNF-{\alpha}$ was also analyzed to confirm the inhibition effect of the extracts on inflammation. Finally, to confirm the enhancement of skin barrier function, the expression of claudin 1 gene, a tight junction protein, was observed using human keratinocyte HaCaT cells and increased as concentration dependent manner. From these results, it is concluded that the oriental herbal extracts(Mix) containing Eucommiae cortex, Alpinia oxyphylla Miquel and Bombyx batryticatus is effective for antioxidant, anti-inflammation, skin whitening, and skin barrier and thus could be applied as a new natural cosmetic material.

• The Journal of Pediatrics of Korean Medicine
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.14-23
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• 2017

Objectives This study is conducted to evaluate skin fat barrier formation of Hataedock using the Coptis japonica & Glycyrrhiza uralensis extract. Methods The 3-week-old NC/Nga mice were divided into 3 groups: control group (Ctrl), Hataedock-treated group that uses the Coptis japonica & Glycyrrhiza uralensis (CGT) extract, and Hataedock-treated group that uses Bifidobacterium (BBT). After 2 weeks, changes in immunohistochemicals, and skin-lipid-barrier regulators were observed for the effects of Hataedock. Results In CGT group, loricrin-positive reaction has been increased by 231%, along with involucrin-positive reaction by 90%, filaggrin-positive reaction by 143%, and ASM-positive reaction by 341% in the stratum corneum. Conclusions Hataedock, using the extract of Coptis japonica & Glycyrrhiza uralensis, increased the expression of proteins promoting keratinocyte differentiation. This leads into conclusion that Hataedock may increase the keratinocyte formation and function which promotes skin barrier formation.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2004

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$, (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.383-389
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• 2017

This study intends to analyze the contents of rutin, procyanidin B3, quercetin, kaempferol, known to have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-carcinogenic effects, among the polyphenol type contained in the grape pruning stem extracts (GPSE), utilizing grape stems being discarded after harvest, measure the effects on the skin moisture, inhibition of skin cell proliferation, anti-inflammatory on the damaged skin of a HR-1 mice induced with UVB, and verify the applicability as a material for functional food and functional cosmetics. The results of verifying the photoprotection effects through the skin proliferation control through of GPSE showed similar result to suncream was achieved at the GPSE concentration of 2,000 mg/kg on the epidermis (p<0.05). The results showed anti-inflammatory effects on all groups applied with GPSE as compared to the control group irradiated with UVB, but at the GPSE concentration of 1,000 mg/kg, a lower COX-2 protein expression at 8%, lower than the 22% of suncream, was observed to achieve an excellent anti-inflammatory effect (p<0.05). The results of this study confirmed the existence of active polyphenol type, such as rutin, kaempferol, querocetin and procyanidin B3, within the GPSE, and GPSE has improvement effects on moisturizing effects, skin proliferation control effect, inflammatory control effect and improvement effects on the skin barrier function through UV ray damage. GPSE is a functional ingredient with a potential for skin protection effects, and has high utilization as an ingredient for functional food and functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.227-233
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• 2004

Chronic exposure to solar radiation, particularly ultraviolet (UV) light, causes a variety of adverse reactions on human skin, such as sunburn, photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by UV exposure or other environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. And, repeated-UV irradiation activated the expression of the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) and induced skin irritation. Therefore, the development of effective and safe photoprotectants that can reduce and improve the skin damage has been required. The purpose of this study was to investigate the photo-protective effect of several chinese medical plants (Juniperus chinensis) on the UV -induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UVA induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$ (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay(EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. In the human skin we tested anti-irritation effect on the SLS-induced damage skin after appling the extract containing emulsion. We found that Juniperus chinensis extract had potent radical scavenging effect by 98% at 100$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97% at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79% at 25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. In the test of proinflammatory cytokines of human keratinocytes Juniperus chinensis extract decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30%. The amount of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly increased at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB (p < 0.05). At the concentrations of 3.2-25$\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of this extract, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 h after 10mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p < 0.05). In SLS-induced skin irritation model in vivo, we found to reduce skin erythema and improve barrier recovery after appling Juniperus chinensis extract containing emulsion when compared to irritated non-treated and placebo-treated skin. Our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis extract can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions and applied as anti-aging and anti-irritation cosmetics.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.418-424
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• 2021

Skin inflammation (dermatitis) is caused by varying skin damage due to ultraviolet radiation and microbial infection. Currently prescribed drugs for dermatitis include anti-histamine and steroid drug classes that soothe inflammation. However, incorrect or prolonged use of steroids can cause weakening of skin barriers as well as osteoporosis. Therefore, treating dermatitis with a drug that has minimal side effects is important. Statins, also known as 3-hydroxy-3-methylglutaryl-coenzyme A reductase inhibitors, are cholesterol-lowering drugs that have been widely treated for hyperlipidemia and cardiovascular diseases. Interestingly, recent studies have shown the anti-inflammatory effects of statins in both experimental and clinical models for of osteoarthritis. This study investigated the possible anti-inflammatory effects of atorvastatin and fluvastatin in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells), which are crucial components of skin barriers. Stimulation of HaCaT cells with IL-1β increased the expression of the COX2 protein, a major player of inflammatory responses. However, this induction of the COX2 protein was downregulated by pretreatments with atorvastatin and fluvastatin. Treatment with IL-1ß-induced the upregulation of other inflammatory genes (such as iNOS and MMP-1) and these expressions were similarly lowered by these two statin drug treatments. Taken together, these results indicated that atorvastatin and fluvastatin can reduce IL-1β-induced inflammatory responses in HaCaT cells. In conclusion, the findings suggest that atorvastatin and fluvastatin can be potential modulators for ameliorating skin inflammation.

• Korean Chemical Engineering Research
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• v.57 no.3
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• pp.432-437
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• 2019

An atmospheric pressure floating electrode-dielectric barrier discharge (FE-DBD) system having flexible electrodes was developed and its plasma characteristics was investigated. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), polydiemethylsiloxane (PDMS), and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) were used as flexible dielectrics for flexible powered-electrodes. The optical intensity and electron temperature of the atmospheric pressure FE-DBD plasma increased with the voltage applied to the powered electrode, and increased in the order of PTFE < PDMS < PET at a fixed voltage. This behavior was explained in terms of the change in the capacitance of the flexible dielectrics with the dielectric type and voltage, implying that the plasma characteristics of an atmospheric pressure FE-DBD having flexible electrodes can be controlled by modulating the flexible dielectrics for the flexible powered-electrode and the voltage applied to the powered electrode. Because an atmospheric pressure FE-DBD system can generate a plasma along the curvature of skins, it is expected to have useful applications in plasma medicine.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2016

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from $250{\mu}M$, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than $250{\mu}M$ concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.95-101
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• 2018

The epidermis which is stratified by epithelial tissue renewal based on keratinocyte differentiation protects the organism from various environmental insults by forming a physical barrier. Autophagy is a mechanism which mediates lysosomal delivery and degradation of protein aggregates, damaged organelles and intracellular microorganisms. Recent reports have shown that autophagy has critical roles for proper terminal differentiation to stratum corneum via removing metabolic organelles and nuclei. However, whether increasing autophagy can activate epidermal differentiation is unknown. Here, we screened a library of natural single compounds and discovered that betaine specifically increased the LC3 positive cytosolic punctate vesicles and LC3-I to LC3-II conversion in HaCaT human keratinocyte cell line, indicating increased autophagy flux. mTOR pathway, which negatively regulates autophagy, was not affected by betaine treatment, suggesting betaine-induced autophagy through an mTOR-independent pathway. Betaine-induced autophagy was also observed in primary human keratinocyte and skin equivalent. Furthermore, epidermal thickness was increased in skin equivalent under betaine treatment. Overall, our finding suggests that betaine as a novel regulator of autophagy may induce epidermal turnover and improve the skin barrier abnormality of the aged epidermis.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.492-504
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• 2018

This study was conducted to investigate the effects of seaweed peeling (SP), glycolic acid peeling (GP) and general scrub (GS), which are widely known as cures for acne in both medicine and esthetics on the keratosis pilaris skin and provide basic data for a keratosis pilaris improvement program. For the experiment, subjects were categorized into control (GS) and experimental (GP and SP) groups, and tests were performed on arms and legs with relatively high keratosis pilaris symptoms (5 parts for each group) for 6 weeks. The keratin quantity, sebum content, moisture level and pigmentation were measured before and after (2, 4 and 6 weeks) the experiment and comparatively analyzed. The GP group showed an increase in moisture level (t=-4.064, p<0.01) but a decrease in pigmentation (t=3.536, p<0.01), while a decrease in keratin quantity (t=2.370, p<0.05) and pigmentation (t=4.017, p<0.01) was observed in the SP group and a decrease in keratin quantity (t=2.834, p<0.05) and an increase in moisture level (t=-7.589, p<0.001) was observed in the control group (GS). Additionally, the skin irritation reaction was lowest in the GS group. The SP group had the highest satisfaction with the improvement in response to keratosis pilaris care. When asked if they were willing to get the treatment with the same product, both SP and GP groups were high. In other words, keratosis pilaris care was needed in both experimental and control groups. Overall, the results of this study indicate that SP, GP and GS, which are commonly used in remedying acne, normalize turnover cycle by removing the dead cells from around the pores and improve keratosis pilaris symptoms by increasing moisture in the skin. Therefore, to improve keratosis pilaris skin, it is important to keep removing keratin and using a moisturizer that provides a skin barrier on a regular basis. The results presented herein will be useful as basic data for a keratosis pilaris improvement program.