• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.140-156
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• 2024

This study examined how the motivational language of instructors in senior fashion model classes affects learners' achievement goal orientation and interpersonal competence, as well as their intention to continue participating. The participants in this study were active seniors aged 50 and above, and the analysis was conducted using PLS-SEM and bootstrapping for mediation effects. It was found that autonomous motivation had a significant impact on task achievement goals and interpersonal competence, but not on ego achievement goals. On the other hand, controlled motivation only had a significant impact on ego achievement goals. Additionally, interpersonal competence had a significant impact on the intention to continue participating, and task achievement goals were found to mediate the relationship between autonomous motivation and interpersonal competence. This study aimed to promote understanding of the importance of instructors' motivational language in senior fashion model education and learners' psychology and to provide information that can help develop a fashion-related leisure activity curriculum. It also suggests efficient instructional directions for instructors in senior education, and it is expected to be utilized in the development of fashion-related leisure activity program curricula in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-363
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• 2024

This study aims to analyze fashion design cases using traditional elements based on the research and analysis of traditional folk cultural paper-cutting crafts in China, and to expand the area of fashion design using traditional elements by developing 3D digital fashion design. For herein, the techniques and characteristics of Chinese paper-cutting crafts were investigated. This survey facilitated an analysis of the formative characteristics of battery crafts in contemporary fashion design. As for the analysis case, the case of using battery crafts expressed in modern fashion for 10 years from 2010 to 2024 S/S was selected. The results are as follows. First, the typical characteristics of Chinese paper cutting technology-relief, micro-carved, combined with relief and micro-carved expressive techniques of engraving art effect-can be explored by analyzing contemporary fashion case collections through the perspective and trend of leading traditional culture. Second, in the traditional paper cutting process, most paper-cutting works are expressed in red, but white and black are mainly used in fashion, in addition to the active use of the five colors. Third, the characteristics of contemporary fashion patterns primarily utilize the paper-cutting process, incorporating elements such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns. Fourth, the utilization of paper cutting in 3D digital design offers time and economic benefits, allowing for quick adjustments to various design developments. In contemporary fashion, it is expected that the use of paper cutting can provide useful creativity and value for the inheritance and modernization of traditional culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.331-347
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to investigate historical and geographical environments in the development of the Naxi costumes of Chinese ethnic minorities and their characteristics-including religious cultures and totem worship-and to suggest the direction of fashion design toward the modernization of traditional costumes. The research methodology involved the collection of materials and investigatation into the history, culture, and characteristics of Naxi costumes; in particular, the "seven-star" sheepskin cape, one of the Naxi people's important ethnic costumes as demonstrated by the women's clothing that has been designed in reflection of this traditional costume. The results are as follows. First, Naxi costumes are found to have overall coherence and distinct locality when retained in the process of modernizing the traditional costume. The theme of this work is titled "By the Light of the Moon and the Stars," which is expressed in contemporary fashion by the use of grey and dark red against a background of black, a color preferred by the Naxi people. Second, the Naxi people's seven-star sheepskin cape is a symbol of women's clothing with its characteristic patterns, shapes, and colors, and it is subject to creative modernization while retaining its unique ethnic characteristics. Third, the work expresses the contemporary stylishness of the costume while maintaining the customary decorative accessories from the Naxi people's traditional culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.380-389
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• 2021

This study aimed to reveal the perceptions and trends of digital fashion technology through an informational approach. A big data analysis was conducted after collecting the text shown in a web environment from April 2019 to April 2021. Key words were derived through text mining analysis and network analysis, and the structure of perception of digital fashion technology was identified. Using textoms, we collected 8144 texts after data refinement, conducted a frequency of emergence and central component analysis, and visualized the results with word cloud and N-gram. The frequency of appearance also generated matrices with the top 70 words, and a structural equivalent analysis was performed. The results were presented with network visualizations and dendrograms. Fashion, digital, and technology were the most frequently mentioned topics, and the frequencies of platform, digital transformation, and start-ups were also high. Through clustering, four clusters of marketing were formed using fashion, digital technology, startups, and augmented reality/virtual reality technology. Future research on startups and smart factories with technologies based on stable platforms is needed. The results of this study contribute to increasing the fashion industry's knowledge on digital fashion technology and can be used as a foundational study for the development of research on related topics.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.110-126
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• 2021

This study aims to explore consumers' perception regarding "one-mile wear" and "home wear" fashion, an emerging trend during the Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) pandemic, and to identify the changes in consumers' perception of this style before and after the pandemic. The data collection period was set as one year before and after the outbreak as of January 1, 2020, and blog posts with keywords "one-mile wear" and "home wear" were collected. Further, textual data crawled and refined using Python 3.7 libraries, and centralities were measured and visualized through NodeXL 1.0.1 and Ucinet 6. According to the results, first, consumers' perception regarding one-mile wear fashion was divided into the following eight categories: wearing situation, expected attribute, style, item, color, textile, shape, and target wearer. Second, before the pandemic, home wear was recognized as pajamas or indoor wear; after the pandemic, home wear was recognized as one-mile wear, outdoor wear, and daily wear. Moreover, keywords, such as "telecommuting", "social distancing", "untact", and "upper body", appeared after the pandemic. It was confirmed that consumers' perception of home wear was affected by the pandemic.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.73-85
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to conduct more practical subsequent research by identifying research areas through a systematic analysis of sustainable fashion design research trends. For this study, 117 journals domestic journals published between 2010 and 2020 were selected using the keyword, 'sustainable fashion'. With the research materials, six top keywords, 'zero waste', 'sustainability', 'eco-friendly', 'upcycling', 'recycling', and 'ethical', were derived. The research status was examined by year, keyword, keyword and year, and research topic. The analysis results are as follows. First, looking into the studies by year, it was found that research on sustainable fashion increased in general. Compared to 2010, the research tripled in 2020, and it was found to have increased steadily from 2018. Second, regarding the research by keyword, eco-friendly was the most common. It can be seen that research tended to focus on recycling or eco-friendliness before, but in later material design development was heading towards upcycling. Third, concerning the research by topic, case studies were found the most before, but research on design development tended to increase recently. Based on that, it is expected that the areas of sustainable fashion design that need more research will be investigated further.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.212-225
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• 2021

With the recognition of YouTube as an information search tool, YouTube creators have subsequently become sources of information to consumers. Accordingly, this study aims to analyze the consumers' response of famous fashion YouTubers in Korea, and to identify differences in consumer response based on the gender and generation of YouTubers. During the period from the opening of fashion creators' YouTube channels, we collected postings on blogs and Internet cafes using textom. As a result of preliminary investigation, six fashion YouTubers were selected. First, all the selected fashion YouTubers were well recognized by consumers as fashion informants. However, Milanonna has been shown to act as a life advisor and as an informant for luxury brands at the same time. Second, female fashion YouTubers were perceived with themes related to daily life, beauty, emotions, and mood rather than fashion itself; whereas, male fashion YouTubers appeared to be more interested in fashion accessories, especially with respect to the basic style. Third, Generation Z fashion YouTubers used the most non-fashion keywords, and their Millennial counterparts used keywords related to fashion items and product purchase properties. However, consumer response to OPAL fashion YouTubers have emerged with items such as life experiences, wisdom, and advice. Moreover, OPAL fashion YouTubers showed a variety of consumer assessments and the YouTuber's personal background. This study's analysis of the differences in the consumer response to fashion YouTubers based on gender and age enables the establishment of an appropriate strategy to attract target consumers and identify their appeal points.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.100-111
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• 2022

After the corona pandemic, when consumers choose clothes, the issue of sustainability has become a more important selection criterion. The eco-friendly functional fiber used in the study is a smartcell, which has functions such as UV protection, decomposition of harmful substances, deodorization, antibacterial and biodegradation. This eco-friendly functional fiber was dyed using five kinds of natural dyes to examine the color change according to dyeability and dyeing conditions. As natural dyes, gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, lac, and indigo were used. For comparison with smartcell, rayon, a cellulose regenerated fiber, and wool fiber, a protein fiber, were dyed under the same conditions to compare dyeability and color. The study results are as follows. It was found that smartcell had superior dyeability compared to rayon and wool in gardenia dye and showed lower dyeability than wool when dyeing turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but showed superior or similar dyeability than rayon. In case of indigo dyeing, the dyeability of smartcell was the best when dyed once, but it was found that smartcell had a lower effect on repeated dyeing compared to wool or rayon. Therefore, smartcell has superior dyeability compared to rayon fiber in gardenia, turmeric, sappan wood, and lac dyeing, and in case of indigo dyeing, it is suitable for light dyeing. When smartcell is produced as textile fashion products, natural dyeing is actively introduced and commercialized, and it is hoped that this study can be a reference material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.87-97
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• 2022

This study investigated the dyeability and color change of the natural dyes of SeaCell, a biodegradable functional fiber that is permanently added to cellulose fibers with natural additives extracted from seaweeds. The natural dyes used in the study are five dyes. Gardenia and turmeric, which are yellow-based natural dyes, Sappan wood and Lac, which are red-based natural dyes, and Indigo, a blue-based natural dye, were selected. The dyeability and color change according to the change of the mordant conditions and the number of times of dyeing were investigated. In addition, the dyeing properties and colors of cotton and silk fibers were compared under the same dyeing conditions as SeaCell. The study results are as follows. It was found that SeaCell had lower dyeing properties than silk, a protein fiber, in gardenia, sappan wood, and lac dyes, but had higher dyeing properties than cotton with the same cellulose component as SeaCell fibers. In the case of turmeric, it showed higher dyeing properties than cotton except for the no mordant condition. In the case of Indigo dye, SeaCell shows the best dyeability, indicating that it is a very suitable fiber for Indigo dyeing. As sustainable functional fibers are continuously developed in the future, natural dyes that are environmentally friendly and human-friendly are actively introduced and commercialized, and it is expected that they can be used as reference materials.