• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.557-564
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on regular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by constituting two numerical model systems: a combination of SWAN(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC(a current model) and a combination of REF/DIF 1(a wave model) plus SHORECIRC. A time dependent phase-resolving wave-current model, FUNWAVE, is also utilized to simulate the experiment. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the two model systems agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. However, it is found that the radiation stresses for standing waves are misevaluated in the wave models. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show very good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.29-33
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• 1993

이제까지 천해역에서의 파랑변형을 계산하는 여러가지 수치모형이 제안되어 있다. 그 가운데 Berkhoff(1972)가 유도한 완경사방정식을 수치계산이 쉽고, 쇄파감쇠 및 반사의 고려가 용이한 형태로 개량한 환산·경도(1985)의 시간의존 쌍곡선형 완경사방정식은 널리 이용되고 있다. 계산대상영역에 파가 비스듬하게 입사하는 경우, 외해측 경계뿐만 아니라, 파가 입사하는 측의 측방경계도 입사경계가 될 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.240-246
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• 2002

Hydraulic model experiments were conducted fur a series of regular and uni-directional irregular waves propagating over a submerged elliptic shoal. Two different sets of experiments have been studied； one considers regular wave transformation with no breaking, and the other considers uni-directional irregular wave with partial breaking on top of the shoal. The numerical experiments are also performed using a numerical model based on the parabolic approximation equation. The result of the numerical experiments are compared with that of hydraulic experiments.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.487-493
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• 1997

The maximum run-up heights of single waves are investigated in this study. A boundary intergral equation model is used to calculate the maximum urn-up heights of both solitary and N-waves. The effect of the bottom friction is considered in the model through a boundary layer theory. The calculated run-up heights are compared with available laboratory measurements, and other numerical and approximate analytical solutions. They are in good agreement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.46-55
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• 2001

An approach using the nonlinear wave model in predicting wave-induced currents is presented. The model results were compared with those of the conventional model using phase-averaged radiation stress, and in addition with experimental data captured by a PIV system. As a result of comparison of wave-induced currents generated behind the surface-piercing breakwater and submerged breakwater, eddy patterns appeared to be similar each other but in general numerical solutions of both models were underestimated.

• Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.57-65
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• 2012

Various numerical methods in simulation of seismic wave propagation have been developed. Recently an innovative numerical method called as the Spectral Element Method (SEM) has been developed and used in wave propagation in 3-D elastic media. The SEM that easily implements the free surface of topography combines the flexibility of a finite element method with the accuracy of a spectral method. It is generally used a weak formulation of the equation of motion which are solved on a mesh of hexahedral elements based on the Gauss-Lobatto-Legendre integration rule. Variational formulations of velocity-stress motion are newly modified in order to implement ADE-PML (Auxiliary Differential Equation of Perfectly Matched Layer) in wave propagation in 3-D elastic media, because a general weak formulation has a difficulty in adapting CFS (Complex Frequency Shifted) PML (Perfectly Matched Layer). SEM of Velocity-Stress motion having ADE-PML that is very efficient in absorbing waves reflected from finite boundary is verified with simulation of 1-D and 3-D wave propagation.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2021.06a
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• pp.103-103
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• 2021

실험실에서의 파랑생성에 흔히 사용되는 피스톤형 조파장치는 수심에 따라 유속이 동일하게 생성된다는 제약이 있어 주로 천해파의 생성에 적합한 것으로 알려져 있다. 본 연구에서는 이러한 제약조건 없이 다양한 유속분포의 파형을 생성하는 수직 다열화된 조파장치가 개발되었다. 우선, 수심방향으로 이산화된 각 패들(paddle)의 스트로크에 대해 선형해석해가 유도되었다. 개발된 해석해는 패들의 수 및 유속분포에 따라 기존의 피스톤형 혹은 플랩형 조파장치 해석해로 근사함이 밝혀짐으로써 포괄적으로 활용될 수 있음이 확인되었다. 즉 개발된 해석해를 활용하면 선택적으로 피스톤형 및 플랩형 조파성능이 구현될 수 있다. 더불어 개발된 해석해는 다상유체의 내부파 생성에도 확정되어 적용가능함이 확인되었다. 다음으로, 개발된 조파장치를 수치적으로 구현하였다. 오픈소스 3차원 수치모형인 OpenFOAM 중, 두 개 이상의 불연속 및 비압축 유체에 대한 Navier-Stokes 방정식을 해결하는 수치 모듈을 사용하여 제안된 수직다열화된 조파장치의 성능이 평가되었다. 이때 동적격자모델(olaDyMFlow)을 결합함으로써 개발된 조파장치 움직임이 물리적 조파장치와 흡사하도록 수치적으로 구현하였다. 모의결과, 여러 개의 다열화된 패들이 층류 흐름 조건에서 심해파를 효율적으로 생성시키고, 중간수심 파랑조건에서는 제안된 조파장치가 상대적으로 덜 유리함을 확인할 수 있었다. 마지막으로 공기, 기름 및 물 등 3상의 흐름조건에서 단 두 개의 패들을 활용하여 각각 내부파 및 표면파를 생성하되었으며, 모의 결과는 해석해과 비교됨으로써 개발된 조파장치의 성능이 검증되었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Hazard Mitigation
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.89-97
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• 2009

In this study, a two-dimensional unstructured finite volume model based on the shallow-water equations and well-balanced HLLC scheme is developed. The model is verified by applying to various one- and two-dimensional problems related to the analyses of dam-break wave. The predicted numerical results agree very well with available analytical solutions and laboratory measurements. The model provides slightly more accurate results compared with the existing models.

• Ecology and Resilient Infrastructure
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2014

In this study, a numerical simulation technique for coastal area where wave and current interactions are observed is proposed. Considering the spatial scale of coastal area and the coastal processes such as wave, current, shoaling, wave breaking, and inundation processes, boussinesq equation model is used. A depth-integrated transport model based on the consistent assumption with the boussinesq equation model is used for the prediction of solute transport. To solve the equations, finite volume method with an approximate riemann solver is used. The proposed model is applied to a coastal area and reasonable computational results are obtained.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.