• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.34-39
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• 2013

In this study, the quantitative analysis and pattern analysis of the error bounds with respect to recording period were carried out using the wave climate data from coastal areas. Arbitrary recording periods were randomly sampled from one month to six years using the bootstrap method. Based on the analysis, for recording periods less than one year, it was found that the error bounds decreased rapidly as the recording period increased. Meanwhile, the error bounds were found to decrease more slowly for recording periods longer than one year. Assuming the absolute estimate error to be around 10% (${\pm}0.1m$) for an one meter significant wave height condition, the minimum recording period for reaching the estimate error for Sokcho and Geoje-Hongdo stations satisfied this condition with over two years of data, while Anmado station was found to satisfy this condition when using observational data of over three years. The confidence intervals of the significant wave height clearly show an increasing pattern when the percentile value of the wave height increases. Whereas, the confidence intervals of the mean wave period are nearly constant, at around 0.5 seconds except for the tail regions, i.e., 2.5- and 97.5-percentile values. The error bounds for 97.5-percentile values of the wave height necessary for harbor tranquility analysis were found to be 0.75 m, 0.5 m, and 1.2 m in Sokcho, Geoje-Hongdo, and Anmado, respectively.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.227-231
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• 2002

연안에서의 부유물질 농도는 파랑, 조류 등 수리 역학적 현상과 기상 조건 및 저질의 상태에 따라 그 변동양상이 결정된다 (Moody et at.,1987; Ridderinkhof et al., 2000). 현재까지 개발된 장비로는 시ㆍ공간적으로 변동하는 부유물질 농도의 특성을 충분히 관측하고 이해하는 데는 한계가 있다. 그러나, 비교적 단순한 장비에 의존하는 연구일지라도 우리나라 주변 연안에서 부유물질 농도 변동에 대한 정량적인 연구는 매우 부족한 실정으로 기초적인 자료의 축적이 거의 전부한 상태이다. (중략)

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Marine Engineers Conference
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• 2012.06a
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• pp.274-274
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• 2012

• Water for future
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.40-52
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• 2020

• Proceedings of the Acoustical Society of Korea Conference
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• 1998.06e
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• pp.147-150
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• 1998

천해에서의 음파전달은 심해와 비교하여 복잡하고 경계면의 영향을 많이 받으며 서해에서 하계의 평균 수온자료로 잔향음을 계산한 결과 해저면 잔향음(reverberation)이 가장 우세한 것으로 나타났다. 특히 서해에서는 하계에 내부파에 의한 강한 수온약층의 생성이 관측되었으며, 이런 현상은 음파전달에 많은 영향을 줄 것으로 예측된다. 내부파를 조석에 의한 장주기와 단주기로 구분하여 적용한 결과 고주파 음원을 사용할 경우 장주기 내부파에 의한 수온약층의 수식변동에 따른 잔향음은 최대 13dB까지 차이가 났으며 단주기 내부파의 경우 수온약층의 하강한 경우 수온약층이 상승한 경우보다 근거리에서 전달손실 변화가 작았다.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.251-261
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• 2007

The wind-wave interaction around the Kyung-gi Bay, Korea, was studied using the observed data from ocean buoy at DeuckJeuck-Do from Jan. to Dec., 2005, and from waverider data at KeuckYeulBee-Do on Mar. 19-26 and May 23-28, 2005. Wind-driven surface waves and wave-driven wind speed decrease were estimated from the ocean buoy data, and the characteristics of wave spectrum response were also investigated from the waverider data for the wave developing and calm stages of sea surface, including the time series of spectrum pattern change, frequency trend of the maximum energy level and spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range. The wind speed difference between before and after considering the wave effect was about $2ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.1Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $5-10ms^{-1}$ and about $3ms^{-1}$ (wind stress ${\sim}0.4Nm^{-2}$) for the wind speed range $10-15ms^{-1}$. Correlation coefficient between wind and wave height was increased from 0.71 to 0.75 after the wave effect considered on the observed wind speed. When surface waves were generated by wind, the initial waves were short waves about 4-5 sec in period and become in gradual longer period waves about 9-10 sec. For the developed wave, the frequency of maximum energy was showed a constant value taking 6-7 hours to reach at the state. The spectrum slope for the equilibrium state range varied with an amplitude in the initial stage of wave developing, however it finally became a constant value 4.11. Linear correlation between the frictional velocity and wave spectrum for each frequency showed a trend of higher correlation coefficient at the frequency of the maximum energy level. In average, the correlation coefficients were 0.80 and 0.82 for the frequencies 0.30 Hz and 0.35 Hz, respectively.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Tunnel and Underground Space
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.432-439
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• 2009

For more reliable estimation of seismic source, attenuation properties and dynamic ground property, site amplification function should be considered. Among various estimation methods, this study used the Nakamura's method (1989) for estimating site amplification characteristics. This method was originally applied to the surface waves of background noise and therefore there are some limitations in applying to general wave energy. However, recently this method has been extended and applied to the S wave energy successfully. This study applied the method to S wave and Coda wave energy, which is equivalent to the backscattered S wave energy. We used more than 60 observed ground motions from 5 earthquakes which were occurred recently, with magnitude range from 3.6 to 5.1. Each station showed characteristic site amplification property in low-, high- and resonance frequencies. Some of the stations showed as high as 4 times of site amplification in the range of specific frequencies, which may imply abnormal small scale geologic strata below the station or development of various trapped modes in the basin structure. Moreover, removal of site amplification can give us more reliable seismic source and attenuation parameters, addition to the seismic hazard estimation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.147-152
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• 2005

선형파 이론에 의한 파랑스펙트럼 분포에 의해서는 30m 크기의 파랑은 현실적으로 거의 발생 불가능하다고 인식되어 왔다. 그러나 최근의 위성 영상을 이용한 조사에 의해 3주간의 기간 통안 25m 이상의 거대파가 10개 이상 관측됨에 따라 실해역에서 빈번히 마주칠 수 있는 현상임이 입증되었으며 이에 따라 지금까지 이유 불명으로 치부되어 왔던 많은 해양 재난이 거대파에 의해 발생했던 것으로 추정되고 있다. 거대파의 발생원인은 파군 형성과 관련한 파고분포 특성의 변화, 전파하는 파군의 비선형 공명간섭 통이 제기되고 있으나, 그 출현의 복잡성과 자료의 부족 등으로 아직 명확하게 해명되지 못하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 실해역에서 발생하는 거대파의 특성 및 선형 및 비선형이론에 근거한 거대파 발생 기구를 고찰하고 비선형 파랑전파를 모사할 수 있는 수치모형을 개발하였다.