KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research (대한토목학회논문집)

Korean Society of Civil Engeneers (대한토목학회)
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An Experimental Study of Sand Beach Profile Evolution under Regular Waves Corresponding to Storm and Normal Conditions

규칙파 조건에서의 사질해안 폭풍파와 평상파 단면변화 실험연구

  • Choi, Junwoo (Korea Institute of Civil Engineering and Building Technology) ;
  • Roh, Min (Korea Institute of Civil Engineering and Building Technology)
  • 최준우 (한국건설기술연구원) ;
  • 노민 (한국건설기술연구원)
  • Received : 2016.01.14
  • Accepted : 2017.01.17
  • Published : 2017.04.01
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Abstract

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

사질해안의 폭풍 및 평상파 단면사이의 지형변화 특성을 이해하기 위해 2차원 이동상 수리실험을 수행하였다. 폭풍 및 평상파 단면을 발달시키는 입사파 파라미터를 조건으로, 연속적으로 단면 지형변화와 수면변위를 계측하였다. 두 입사파 조건을 번갈아 각각의 평형 상태에 도달하기까지의 변화를 쇄파대에서 관측하였다. 폭풍파 조건에서 붕괴(plunging) 쇄파로 사주가 발달하고 포말대의 경사가 급해짐을 보였으며, 평상파 조건에서는 말림(spilling) 쇄파에 의해 사주가 소멸함을 보였다. 단면 지형변화 관측을 통하여 폭풍파 조건에서 표사가 외해로 유출되고, 평상파조건에서 내해로 표사가 유입됨을 알 수 있었다. 폭풍파 조건에서 외해방향으로의 표사이송에 지배적인 역할을 하는 강한 역저류(undertow)가 발달하였고, 평상파 조건에서는 약한 역저류가 발달하였다. 그리고 두 조건에서 모두 해안방향으로의 표사이송에 지배적 역할을 하는 비선형 파동에 의한 왜도(skewness)와 비대칭성(asymmetry)이 관측되었다.

Keywords

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