• Journal of Industrial Technology
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• v.17
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• pp.261-275
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• 1997

The objective of this paper is to develop two numerical model for predicting the wave height with set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile. Two wave models, regular wave model and random wave model, are based on the energy flux equation with the energy dissipation effects. The developed numerical models are verified by comparison of numerical results with analytical solutions that are derived under the simple conditions. The characteristics of parameters included in each model are then investigated and decided to the range of behaviour by the sensitivity analysis. For sensitivity analysis, we carried out total 46 laboratory tests. Finally, the developed numerical models are applied to the field where the wave height near the surfzone has been measured. From the applications of numerical models, it is concluded that the developed numerical models may accurately predict the wave height with the set-up/down near the surfzone on a arbitrary beach profile.

• Korean Journal of Fisheries and Aquatic Sciences
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.669-675
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• 2003

To increase fishery resources in coastal waters, juvenile fish and bivalves are artificially released every year in Korea. This study provides a methodology to estimate an optimal release quantity based on the carrying capacity of the receiving basins. Carrying capacity was defined by E.p. Odum's theory of ecosystem development as the upper limit of biomass, where total system respiration equals total primary production. The Ecopath trophic ecological model was used to determine carrying capacity in the surfzone ecosystem of Bangjukpo on the southern coast of Korea. Using a top-down control method, various biomasses of fish groups were given to the simulation, with primary production constant and no catch. The results showed that biomass of selected fish groups increased by two orders of magnitude, yielding a five-fold increase in overall consumer biomass. The resultant values are 10 times higher than those estimated in open seas. This can be explained by higher primary production in the Bangjukpo surfzone ecosystem. This method can be used for strategic releases and ecosystem management, particularly when based on an ecological background.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.55 no.9
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• pp.669-678
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• 2022

The Haeundae beach and coast suffered synthetical dramatic changes especially in the nearshore topography by the beach nourishment project (i.e., 2013-2015). A previous study showed the rip current characteristics were changed according to the topographical change in terms of their magnitudes and likelihoods through numerical simulations using the FUNWAVE model. The magnitude and likelihood of rip currents decreased because the surfzone width decreased just after the beach nourishment. In this study, however, numerical simulations of the Haeundae rip currents were performed by using the 2017- and 2020-surveyed topographies changed for several years after the beach nourishment. From the simulation results using the topographies surveyed before and after the beach nourishment, it was found that the magnitude and likelihood of rip currents increased due to its increasing surfzone width in 2017 and 2020 and they might be increasing larger than those before the beach nourishment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.446-457
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• 2020

Crescentic sand bar in the coastal zone of eastern Korea is a common morphological feature and the rhythmic patterns exist constantly except for high wave energy events. However, four consecutive typhoons that directly and indirectly affected the East Sea of Korea from September to October in 2019 impacted the formation of longshore uniform sand bar and overall shoreline retreats (approx. 2 m) although repetitive erosion and accretion patterns exist near the shoreline. Widely used XBeach to predict storm erosions in the beach is utilized to investigate the morphological response to a series of storms and each storm impact (NE-E wave incidence). Several calibration processes for improved XBeach modeling are conducted by recently reported calibration methods and the optimal calibration set obtained is applied to the numerical simulation. Using observed wave, tide, and pre & post-storm bathymetries data with optimal calibration set for XBeach input, XBeach successfully reproduces erosion and accretion patterns near MSL (BSS = 0.77 (Erosion profile), 0.87 (Accretion profile)) and observed the formation of the longshore uniform sandbar. As a result of analysis of simulated total sediment transport vectors and bed level changes at each storm peak Hs, the incident wave direction contributes considerable impact to the behavior of crescentic sandbar. Moreover, not only the wave height but also storm duration affects the magnitude of the sediment transport. However, model results suggest that additional calibration processes are needed to predict the exact crest position of bar and bed level changes across the inner surfzone.

• Journal of Korean Port Research
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.155-166
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• 1999

The construction of the coastal structures and reclamation work causes the circulation reduced in the semi-closed inner water area and the unbalanced sediment budget of beach results in an alteration of beach topography. Among the various fluid motions in the nearshore zone water particle motion due to wave and wave-induced currents are the most responsible for sediment movement. Therefore it is needed to predict the effect of the environmental change because of development and so the prediction of wave transformation dose. The purpose of this study is to introduce the relation between waves wave-induced currents and sediment movement. In this study we will show numerical method using energy conservation equation involving reflection diffraction and reflection and the surfzone energy dissipation term due to wave breaking is included in the basic equation. For the wave-induced current the momentum equation was combined with radiation stresses lateral mixing and friction Various information is required in the prediction of wave-induced current depending on the prediction tool. We can predict changes in wave-induced current from the distribution of wave especially near the wave breaking zone. To evaluate these quantities we have to know the local condition of waves mean sea level and so on. The results from the wave field and wave-induced current field deformation models are used as input data of the sediment transport and bottom change model. Numerical model were established by a finite difference method then were applied to the development plan of the eastern Pusan coastal zone Yeonhwa-ri and Daebyun fishing port. We represented the result with 2-D graphics and made comparison between before and after development.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• 한국해양학회지
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1987

The Sinyangri Formation crops out in the vicinity of the Seongsan Peninsula, Cheju Island. Based on sedimentary structures, texture and composition, the lithologic sequence has been classified, in ascending stratigraphic order, into three lithofacies: parallel laminated sandstone facies (Facies I): conglomerate facies(Facies Il); and cross stratified sandstone facies (F acies Ill). Wedge-to-parallel, seaward-inclined in low angle less than 10$^{\circ}$lamina -sets with alternations of coarseand fine-grained sediments in the Facies I are the characteristic sedimentary structures in the foreshore depositional environment. Grains of this faciesare well sorted with good roundness compared with the other two facies, partly showing inverse graded bedding. Facies II,largely composed of claset-supported,very poorly-sorted conglomerates,does not pinch out but occurs continuously along the Sinyangri beach.Interstitial spaces between the clasts are mostly infilled with volcanic-ash and small amounts of well-rounded shell fragments.Maximum bed thickness as well as the size of imbedded basaltic clasts decreases to the south(toward Sinyangri). Large clasts with parallel lamination originated from the underlying Facies i,are generally elongated parallel to the bedding plane and display no systematic horizontal variations in size indicative of in-situ clasts.In view of the facts above it seems that large gravels from the basaltic rocks are transgressive lag conglomerates which are partly affected by the combination of longshore currents and propagating wave.Local occurrence of cross-strata dipping toward the south in the upper part of Facies IIreinforces the evidence of the action of longshore currents. Facies IIIis characterized by bidirectional trough cross-starifiction and wave ripples associated with the upper shoreface(surfzone) environments.In summary,the Sinyangri Formation represents the depositional environments of foreshore to upper shoreface truncated by disconformity between Facies Iand II.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2006

A Level 3 reliability analysis has been performed for wave run-up and overtopping on a sloping seawall. A Monte-Carlo simulation was performed considering the uncertainties of various variables affecting the wave overtopping event. The wave overtopping probability was evaluated from the individual wave run-up by using the wave-by-wave method, while the mean overtopping rate was calculated directly from the significant wave height. Using the calculated overtopping probability and mean overtopping rate, the maximum overtopping volume was also calculated on the assumption of two-parameter Weibull distribution of individual wave overtopping volume. In addition, by changing wave directions, depths, and structure slopes, their effects on wave overtopping were analyzed. It was found that, when the variability of wave directions is considered or the water depth decreases toward shore, wave height become smaller due to wave refraction, which yields smaller mean overtopping rate, overtopping probability and maximum overtopping volume. For the same mean overtopping rate, the expected overtopping probability increases and the expected maximum overtopping volume decreases as approaching toward shore inside surfzone.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.113-128
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• 1990

In recent years, various types of coastal protection scheme have been studied around the coastal region. Among them, so-called zonal protection systems are being watched with interest from various points of view. In this paper, wave overtopping rate from overflowing the vertical seawall is investigated by conducting two dimensional model on the horizontal bed experiment. Hereafter this system is referred to as a artificial reef system. One is the foundation to control wave height near the surfzone and the other is function to prevent coastal disaster by suppressing net overtopping rate. The main results obtained in this study are summarized as follows. 1) Wave attenuation taken place on the artificial reef can be predicted numerically by using energy dispersion model due to wave breaking proposed by Battjes. 2) To evaluate the wave overtopping rate from a vertical seadike on various coastal constructions by weir model, a numerical procedure for prediction of overtopping is confirmed.