• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• Journal of Wetlands Research
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.423-430
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• 2013

An algorithm to allow shoreline movement during numerical experiment on sediment transport, deposition or resuspension for general coastal morphology is proposed here. The bed slope near shoreline, i.e. mean sea level, is influenced by bed material, tidal current, waves, and wave-induced current, but has been reported to remain within a stable range. Its annual variation is not large, either. The algorithm is adjusting the bathymetry, if the largest bed slope within shoreline band exceeds a given bed slope due to continuous erosion at zones below the shoreline. This algorithm automatically describes retreat of shoreline caused by erosion, when used within a numerical system. The algorithm was tested to a situation which includes a continuous dredging at a point, and showed satisfactory development of concentric circle contours. Next, the algorithm was tested to another situation which includes sinking of eroded part of bed plate, and produced satisfactory results, too. Finally, the algorithm was tested to a movable-bed laboratory experimental conditions. The shoreline movement behind detached breakwater was reasonably reproduced with this algorithm.