• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.7
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• pp.164-179
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• 2008

The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.59-77
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to use data from studies of headdresses which might be helpful for creating new fashion styles. Headdresses in 2010 S/S-2015 S/S Paris haute couture collections were analyzed in the following categories: years, season, brand, type, color, material, and image. The types of headdresses were categorized as hat, hood, decorative or complex types. The hat type was elegant with a modern style, and coexisted with an exaggerated avant garde style. The hood type wrapped around the head with many examples having a distinctive sculpture on top of the knot. The decorative type varied dramatically in form and materials. The complex type was a blend of all the other types with the designer's individuality being outstanding. The characteristics of headdresses were revealed first, as an enlargement of the materials category, second, as an expression of dramatic forms, and third, as complete coordination of the creative fashion image. The headdresses illustrate the designer's creativity in producing a variety of images. Henceforth they will be important as fashion items and independent designs in fashion styling.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.163-175
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• 2010

This study is a part of the integrated investigation of the design of Yves Saint Laurent, and aims at examining the background of the appearance of art inspiration which the artistic quality and originality are particularly seen. And also, I would like to examine the source of the power that transcends periods, dealing with issues in the design. From the mid 1960 to 1970, Yves Saint Laurent who leaded the global fashion trend, displayed the Art Inspiration works with the innovation of fashion in Paris, rediscovery of the trends and colors in Modern Art, and background of Entourage and so forth. He brought in the various artistic genres to the fashion, and his Haute Couture collections which were created by the passion for the movie and theater art, expressed the freedom through his strong identity in the Modern Art & Culture and the atmosphere of that period. Eventually his works are reappeared transcending the generations as the fundamental power of Modernity, through the restricted line of his own, strong contrast of colors, and insight for the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.3 s.93
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• pp.108-121
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• 2005

The purposes of this study were to analyze hat design with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2004 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, the focus of theoretical approach was literature research, and hat design was attempted on the basis of the research. The focus of theoretical background was on previous research and fashion-related literature. Fashion Photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing Haute Couture collection in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.34-56
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• 2005

This study analyzed the formative relationship between clothes and hat, and to find out the development direction of next hat design. To do these purposes, Fashion photos were picked up from all kinds of fashion magazines containing in Paris from the 1990's to 2004 S/S and some designers' collections. Then 1,381 photos were selected through two screenings. At first time, 1,500 photos were selected to have the relationship between clothes and hats, and finally 1,381 photos were picked. The method to analyze was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.3
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• pp.296-312
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• 2018

In this study, we analyzed the whole design of the necklace in detail, which reflects the artistic sense of handicraft in couture. The purpose of the study was to identify the characteristics of the design based on the analysis findings and to provide basic data to help fashion designers. The research method entailed analyzing trends in necklace design - viewed in fashion magazines and on websites - by year, season, brand, kind, material, color, and image. The identified necklace design characteristics were as follows. First, artistry and originality are dramatically expressed through the use of a broad range of materials. Second, due to the necklace's role as an object of perfect beauty, in a number of images, the necklaces were presented in convergence and contrast with overall costumes. Third, the dramatic effects of layering revealed a strong presence and individualized styling. Necklaces are created with diverse sculptures by realizing the creative imagination of fashion designers. Even though they looked a little different every year, there were designs in the collections constantly. Round shape and princess length were preferred. In particular, the mix type was used to express dramatic effect by focusing neck part in entire styling which different length of necklaces were layered and worn. As a result, it meets the needs of consumers who emphasize brand differentiation and diversity, and it is believed that the role of necessities in fashion will continue and it creates economic demand in the fashion industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.14-31
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• 2007

The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.29-45
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.