• 한국생활과학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국생활과학회 2010년도 하계학술대회
• /
• pp.109-110
• /
• 2010

• 복식
• /
• 제45권
• /
• pp.17-28
• /
• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제17권1호
• /
• pp.170-185
• /
• 2013

The suitability of the pattern manufactured with the development figure was considered by reviewing the development conditions that can be directly connected to the basic pattern in the human body surface development figure with the cast bandage method. The method to prepare the sleeve basic pattern was based on the cylindrical surface development method, and the sleeve basic pattern covering the 45 and 90 degrees momentum of the arm-movement was made by using the cast-type body surface development figure prepared with the horizontal line of the sleeve hem placed horizontally in the plan and by combining the cast-type body surface development figure in the standing position with the figure in the moving position. The test clothing was prepared with the sleeve pattern adding the bodice pattern in the standing position and the momentum and was worn on the FRP replica. The relationship theory of the body surface development figure with the pattern was derived by reviewing the suitability from the wearing state. The sleeve-cap height of the sleeve basic pattern resulted in about 80% in the standing position when the needs for a physical activity are 45 degrees and the about 50% when the needs for a physical activity are 90 degrees. The additional size of the diagonal length of the sleeve-cap could be set as "0" if the sleeve-cap height is low by 50% and as 50% of the additional size in the standing position if the sleeve-cap height is 80%.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권1호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2020

This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제14권3호
• /
• pp.434-442
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop the beautiful basic bodice pattern that satisfied both functionality and aesthetics on the basis of the change in the figure and length of surface body for each movement through a three-dimensional development figure of surface body for young women (aged between 18 and 24) who were very sensitive to fitness of clothes. Existing three basic bodice patterns (Yim wonja-, ESMOD-, and FIT-types) were selected and then compared and analyzed in terms of drawing methods and the wearing test was carried out by a sensory test in order to design an experimental prototype. The design of study prototype was improved by three wearing test that was correlated with low satisfactory item. And the ease was established by difference of previous direct measurement and body surface measurement.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권3호
• /
• pp.349-361
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop bodice basic patterns fitted on different body types of adult women. To meet this purpose, first, human bodies were measured using tight fitting technique and classified based on the shapes of upper trunk. The subjects were 214 women $20{\sim}39$ years of age. For the measurement of female upper trunk, tight fitting technique was utilized. The development of figures of upper trunks were obtained from women. These development of figures were then digitized and analysed using the PAD system. A total of 155 measurements were taken from each of the development of figures. then, 32 measurements were selected for the further analysis. As complimentary data, 22 direct body measurements using an anthropometric method and 23 body measurements using a photographic method from the side view pictures of the participants were also obtained. The results and discussions of this study are as follows: Using the body measurements from the development of figures, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis were conducted. As a result, the body types were classified into 5 different types, which differ in terms of bust volumes, shoulder slopes, shoulder tilts, back silhouettes, body axises. The prominent characteristics of each type are as follows: The first type has a large bust volume. The second type has a right figure. The third type has a rounded back silhouette. The fourth type has a back silhouette of scapular coming backward. Finally the fifth type has a shoulder tilted forward.

• 복식
• /
• 제36권
• /
• pp.139-148
• /
• 1998

In order to know what sorts of features of neck form may be required to make plans for tight collars, the neck form of young japanese women were measured three demension-ally using GRASP(Grating Projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL program in MACINTOSHI computer, it became possible to draft a number of neck surface auomatically, therefore, we got analysis of a mass of subjects. Thed following results were obtained: 1. There was a large individual difference in the shape of neck, in particular, on the front and side curves of the neck base line, where the undulation of clavicular part of neck and inclination of shoulder are refracted. 2. When designing a stand collar, from the viewpoint of clothing strcture, it is important to grasp exactly the shapes of the neck, such as the line of the neck base, the neck gradient, back neck length, back neck width & girth. 3. According to the somatotypes(turing-over, standard, bending type), there were different the method of the basic collar pattern making.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권7호
• /
• pp.1109-1120
• /
• 2009

This study develops a fitted torso type basic pattern for men by utilizing 3D body scan data. Recent fashion trends are reflected in the development of the pattern. The subjects were 15 men in their 20's, who wear size 95 (M size). Body scan data was obtained through a 3D whole body scanner (WB4, Cyberware, USA), and a body surface development figure for developing male fitted torso type basic pattern was attained through the use of Rapid Form 2006 as well as Auto CAD 2006 programs. The results are as follows: A body surface development figure through body surface segment method showed high exactitude in an error range of 100$\pm$1%. In addition, it occurred in an error range of 100:1:3% because of the hard scanning conditions in the incline of the shoulder and armpit areas. However, the body surface development figure as well as the direct measurement results can be used as basic data for the given patternmaking since the error range falls into 100$\pm$3%. Dart amounts obtained from the average cross section were center back 2.2cm (24.3%), back armpit point 3.8cm (41.8%), front armpit point 3.0cm (33.9%). As shown the jacket pattern, the biggest dart amount was portioned out at the back armpit point. The drafting equations for the development pattern acquired are as follows; Full width=C/2+5cm, back length=height/4-1cm, armhole depth=(C/10+12cm)+3cm, back width=2C/10+2cm, front width=2C/10. The development pattern was a fitted torso basic pattern that was composed of 3 pieces, so it would be very useful in developing shirt or jacket patterns. According to the results of the evaluation of the developed pattern appearance, it obtained higher scores of over 3.5 points in almost items, meaning that the developed pattern is appropriate for a male fitted torso type basic pattern. It suggests a possibility of patternmaking from a body surface development figure in 2-D to prototype.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권2호
• /
• pp.203-214
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kinds of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 53 females 30 to 39 years-old. Fifty-three anthropometric data are measured per shell of bodysurface; six somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score as an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows: 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is six and those factors comprise 76.12 percent of total variance. Factor 1: related to the size of shape in the front of upper body Factor S: related to the size of shape in the back of upper body Factor 3: related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circumference line Factor 4: related to the length of·the upper body Factor 5: related to the part of the neck Factor 6: related to the type of the lower chest under the chest circumference line 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster L: the length is the largest and the circumference is small. The part of waist is the largest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2: Slender body line from chest to waist is characteristic. The length is longer. The part of upper and lower chest is larger among surface areas. Cluster S: the circumference is the smallest and armhole is small. The length and surface area are small. Cluster 4: the circumference and armhole is the largest. The length is the smallest. Cluster 5: the circumference is average and the length is a little long. The body line(silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.170-182
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kind.; of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 50 females 20 to 29 years-old. Fifty-one anthropometric data are measured per shell of body surface : eight somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score a.: an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows : 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is eight and these factors comprise 81.63 percent of total variance. Factor 1 related to the degree of fatness in the front of upper body Factor 2 related to the degree of fatness in the back of upper body Factor 3 . related to the length of the upper body Factor 4 : related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circmference line Factor 5 : related to the armhole and neck Factor 6 : related to the type of lower chest under the chest circumference line Factor 7: related to the part of the back shoulder Factor 8: related to the depth of front neck and side dart of front independently 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster 1 : the of circumference i.: lager and that of length is longer than the average The louver part of chest is the lagest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2 : the circumference is the smallest , the length and surface area are small. The upper and lower chest is small Cluster 3 : the length and surface area are the smallest , the circumference is average. The body line (silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.