• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.7
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• pp.105-117
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• 2007

The purposes of this study were 1) to classify adult consumers according to their desired clothing benefits on natural-dyed clothes, 2) to identify the differences of life-style among the classified groups, and 3) to determine the interest in Korean traditional culture, interest in dyeing, and demographics among the groups. The survey subjects were 283 adults. The data were analyzed utilizing factor analysis, cluster analysis, $x^2$-test, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test and multiple regression analysis. Based on the 6 dimensions of clothing benefits that were identified by factor analysis, adult consumers were classified into three clusters: eco-friendly oriented group showing the highest scores in environment conservation and comfort in clothing benefits, individuality-oriented group showing the highest scores in individuality and quality, and indifference group showing lower scores in all of the desired clothing benefits. The eco-friendly group showed the highest scores in attitude toward Korean traditional culture, and tended to have the most interest in natural and traditional methods of dyeing. The group members appeared to have passive life-styles, be older and married, and have a higher income than the other groups. The more positive attitude they had in Korean traditional culture, the higher was the purchase intention shown in the eco-friendly group. The individuality-oriented group showed active life-styles. This group tended to be younger than the other group. The more affirmative attitude in Korean traditional culture and the greater interest in the natural dyeing, the higher was the consumers' purchase intention of natural dyeing apparels. The indifference group tended to be younger, unmarried, and have a lower income. This group was not interested in natural dyeing apparels. The study findings demonstrated that consumers with different clothing benefits sought have different buying patterns on natural dyeing apparels. Finally the marketing implications are discussed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.601-612
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• 2015

This research investigated the dyeing behavior of palmatine (a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark in addition to berberine) using mercerization (M), tannic acid (T), mercerization-tannic acid (MT), and tannic acid -mercerization (TM) pretreatments. Mercerization was conducted using $20^{\circ}C$ of 20% NaOH for 5 minutes. Tannic acid treatment was conducted using 15% o.w.f. solution of tannic acid at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes and fixed with potassium antimonyl tartrate trihydrate. Dyeing was conducted using 1% o.w.f. palmatine chloride hydrate with 1:100 liquor ratio at $10-95^{\circ}C$ for 10-60 minutes in a dyebath of pH 3-9. MT method resulted in the highest dye uptake and was two times higher than the average dye uptake of T method. MT method provided the best result when the dyeing temperature was $80^{\circ}C$ or $95^{\circ}C$ and the dyeing time was 60 minutes. The pH of the dyebath had less effect on the dye uptake but a pH higher than 5 provided better results. The study confirmed that palmatine is a major coloring compound of Phellodendron bark and that the MT method can be used as a successful cotton dyeing method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.191-201
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• 2021

In this study, an eco-friendly indigo reduction system(scale up reduction, use of buffer solution, and pH control) using baker's yeast(Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was applied for natural indigo(Polygonum tinctorium) dyeing of Hanji fabric and Hanji-mixture fabric(Hanji/Cotton, Hanji/Silk). The effect of concentration of baker's yeast, repeat dyeing, and bath reuse was investigated in terms of dye uptake indicating reduction power. And the oxidation-reduction potential(ORP) was monitored. We also evaluated color properties and colorfastness according to the color strength. The yeast concentration did not significantly affect the maximum reduction power. However, the highest yeast concentration was effective in improving the initial dye uptake, and its the reduction retention power was the most excellent. Even on the last reduction day, the effect of increasing the dye uptake by repeat dyeing was observed. And it was confirmed that the reduction bath could be reused for up to 30 days by supplementing yeast at the end of reduction. For all the fabrics used, deeper and darker PB color were obtained by repeat dyeing. As dyeing was repeated, purplish tint got stronger on the Hanji/Silk fabric compared to other fabrics. Regardless of the composition of Hanji fabrics and color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastness were relatively good with above rating 4-5, and fastness to rubbing and light were acceptable with a rating 3-4 ~ 4-5. The eco-friendly natural indigo dyeing process using niram and baker's yeast would offer global marketability and diversity of Hanji product as a sustainable high value-added material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.5 s.164
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• pp.659-669
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the degradation of silk fabrics dyed with gardenia and sappanwood by Ultraviolet Light(UV). To asses the effect of uv on dyed silk fabrics, physical and chemical properties of samples were explored. K/S value rapidly decreased with increasing exposure time. Mordanting improved ultraviolet-cut ability and the sappanwood dyed samples were superior to those of gardenia dyed in ultraviolet-cut ability. Color progressively faded away as uv exposure time increased, accordingly, $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$, H/VC, ${\Delta}E$ were changed. Morphological change observed with SEM represented degradation of silk fabrics from the outer fibril to the inner fibril. Tensile Strength abruptly decreased as uv exposure time increased and the mordanted samples showed higher tensile strength than the unmordanted. FT-IR analysis confirmed that main peaks at 3297 and $1704cm^{-1}$ band for silk fabric were due to N-H and C=O stretching, gardenia peaks at 1654 and $668cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(ester), C=C(alken) and O-C=O(carboxylic acids) of crocin and sappanwood peaks at $1715cm^{-1}$ band representing C=O(cyclic keton) of brazilin appeared on the samples exposed for 14 days, but these peaks indicating colorants after 28 days of uv exposure faded away due to prolonged exposure of uv.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.906-922
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• 2020

Efficacy of Flos Sophorae as UV protective dye was examined in comparison to standard dyes of quercetin and rutin. Cotton was dyed using Flos Sophorae extract, quercetin, and rutin with 2 different concentrations for each dye. Each type of dyeing applied a temperature of 70℃ or 90℃ and a time of 30 min or 60 min. Color values of dyed samples were examined using a spectrocolorimeter. HPLC-DAD analysis indicated the amount of quercetin and rutin contained in Flos Sophorae used in the study. UPF values of dyed samples were measured using an ultraviolet transmittance analyzer. Experimental results indicated that dyeing cotton with Flos Sophorae extract, quercetin, or rutin increased the UPF value and decreased the UVA and UVB transmittance (%) regardless of dyeing conditions. A higher rank of UPF values were shown in cotton dyed using the Flos Sophorae extract that implied the possible concerted effect of quercetin, rutin, and flavonoid compounds contained in Flos Sophorae. The results indicated that Flos Sophorae is an effective natural dye that can improve the UV protective function of summer cotton fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.619-627
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• 2000

Historically, dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense, reserved only for people of wealth and specalist, Early dye sources probably included plant, animal and mineral extracts. As synthetic dyes have been developed, beginning with synthetic indigo in 1897, reliance on natural dye sources diminished. But renewed interest in natural dyes is fueled by a pro-environment consumer aware of the ecological liabilities of the dye industry. Han Jee was imported from China where it was influenced to period of the three kingdoms(Silla, Baekje, Kokuryo). After that, Han Jee was used for paper in old Korea for long thime before paper was came with civilization. In this paper, dyeing of Han Jee with loess were investigated according to dyeing temperature, dyeing time, loess concentration, and effects of additives. As a reuslts, λmax of Han Jee dyed by loess was 710nm. ΔE values of Han Jee increased by loess concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature. Dyeing with additives treatment increased dyeability. Especially, Han Jee treated with aluminium acetate shows the largest dyeability of the Han Jee. The Han Jee dyed loess had very good lightfastness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.103-112
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investgate dyeing, moradnting properties and colorfastness activities of silk, polyamide, acetate treated black soybean extracts. The color of extract by buffer solution (pH=1) red, but the higher pH of extracted black soybean solution the paler of color strength. Black soybean extracts was approved anthocyanin of 3type(Delphinidin3-glucoside, Cyanidin 3-glucoside, Petunidin 3-glucoside) by chemiclal analysis. This anthocynin, in acid condition, is oxinium structure (red color, soluable) but, in alkali condition quinoid structure(dark brown, in soluable). The optimum dyeing condition of black soybean anthocynin was 10min at $30^{\circ}C$, pH -1. Colorfastness to washing and light showed generally low but crocking fastness was excellent.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.6
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• pp.942-946
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• 2009

The trends of patents related to natural dyeing were examined in order to guide the development of natural dyeing into a high value-added technology. Total 181 patents data provided from KISTI were analyzed and following results were drawn. Korea had the overwhelming number of patents related to natural dyeing over Japan or United States of America from 1970 to 2007. In case of domestic, the number of patent applications were heavily focused on the metropolitan area in 1990's, but started to increase in the Honam region and Youngnam region in the first half of the year 2000 which indicated that the researches and the developments of natural dyeing were very active. In the case of foreign countries, most of their patent applications comes from the corporation such as a company while the number of patents applications from individuals overwhelms that of corporation in South Korea. Also, more of individuals' patent applications were denied than corporations' patents applications. The vegetable dye, a type of dyestuff which is a research subject for patent application, had the most research done above all other dyestuff.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.461-466
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the different purchasing behaviors of natural dyes according to the personal value orientation of the consumers in question. In addition, this study sets out the purchasing behaviors according to demographic variables. To collect data, this study surveyed 150 housewives living in Daegu in November 2003 using convenient sampling. SPSS 10.0 was used for the statistical analysis of the sampled data including basic statistics, factor analysis and multiple regression analysis. The results derived from this study are as follows : 1) The group that exhibited a more self-controlled value orientation prefers to purchase natural dyes. 2) Consumers with relatively high education backgrounds and in an older age group have preference in purchasing natural dyes.