• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.43-54
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• 2014

In textile industry, needs for various weave drafts have been increased to produce high qualified textile goods. One of disadvantages of traditional textile industry was spending time and money on manual sampling. Nowadays, however, weave draft design and sampling using CAD programs reduce these consumption efficiently. Therefore, this study aimed to provide high qualified woven fabrics by weave draft designs influenced by geometric patterns. First, We analyzed geometric patterns, except for dot, stripe, and checks, in fashion collections from 2009 to 2014 S/S. Then, based on these analyses, design concepts were decided. Third, weave drafts influenced by geometric patterns were designed with weave CAD program, TEX PRO 10.0 by Youngwoo CNI inc. Forth, We simulated fabrics woven by new drafts using CAD programs, depending on fibers, yarns, density of woven, colors, and finishes. Unclassified geometric patterns would be expressed by small size patterns that influenced by retro moods, square patterns with various color variation, zigzag lines, and pieces of puzzles. Three design concepts were decided as greenness, neoclassic, and romantic chic. Thus, geometric patterns for printing were created as drafts for general looms, and one repeat of each draft were provided. According to the design concepts, we designed 13 fabrics with 4 geometric patterns weaving drafts. All Drafts were designed with CAD programs. Finally, same drafts were simulated as woven fabrics for both S/S and F/W seasons by changing each element, such as fiber, yarns, density, colors, and finishes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.722-734
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• 2008

This study focuses on the trend of modern society that places importance on health and happiness. By using gilsang (signs that brings good fortunes) patterns that wishes for fortune and health, the objective of this study is to design a distinct but universal fashion good that is unique to Korea and is used not only as a piece of artwork, but as part of development of new and assorted cultural products that is competitive in the international society. This study was conducted first by studying related documents for the theoretical background. In addition, in order to satisfy consumer demands, a jacquard that can procure international competitiveness was designed and fashion goods fitting to this was planned. Through this, the various possibilities of using the jacquard designs were suggested. The development process of fashion goods using jacquard was divided into 10 stages: theme setting, gilsang pattern setting, sketching, textile plan, design organization, input, simulation process, perforation and sewing, selection of design for the fashion good and goods production. Fashion materials are a very important element in creating variations and uniqueness in the fashion industry. Development of new materials has made the aesthetic and ornamental elements, together with the practical and functional aspects of textiles possible. A major issue today is rising out of the past mass production method of OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturing), and developing various artistic patterns that can be used in mass-produced products and assorted production in small quantities in order to develop specialized fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.45-62
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• 2015

This study is to develop cultural products based on 'Jeju Choga', which means the traditional houses in Jeju. For the product development, old literature review, field surveys, and consumer surveys were employed. Through old literatures and field surveys, the unique and visual characteristics of Jeju Choga were confirmed: A thatched roof with lattice pattern, a side wall and fences with porous stones, a 'Jungnang' serving as a gate, and a 'Pungchai' preventing strong sola radiation and 'Ollai' meaning a narrow street in front of the Choga. As a results of consumer survey conducted before the development of products, consumers highly recognized and associated Jeju Choga as Jeju representative image. The six basic patterns of Jeju Choga were drawn and eight textile designs were created through the repeated arrangements of the basic patterns. Using the created textile designs and digital printing method, the eleven new fabrics with the patterns of Jeju Choga were developed. The various kinds of ten bags and tow wallets made with the new fabrics. As a result of consumer evaluation for the twelve products made in this study, the scores of preference and purchase intention were above the average work for the most products of them. In particular, the preference and purchase intention of the square shoulder bag, the big-size shopper bag, and the small-size cross bag were very positively evaluated. Therefore, it is confirmed that Jeju Choga could be very useful as a motif for the development of cultural products focusing on Jeju tourism souvenir market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.297-307
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of physical type and age on preference for color and fabric motifs in women's clothing design. Color preference measures consisted of fabric samples in solid colors and drawings of clothing styles painted in colors. Preference for fabric motifs was assessed by printed fabrics in various patterns and sizes. All of the preference measures were devised specifically for this study. Furthermore, items on height and weight for physical type as well as age of the subjects were included in the questionnaire. Data were obtained by means of structured interviews and self-administered questionnaires from 588 women ($20\~60$ years of age) in seoul. Analysis was by chi-square ($X^{2}$), frequency, percentage, and mean. On color preference, a small but significant body type, height, and age effect was found on some types of clothing. Preference for fabric motifs was affected by body type; height of subjects was related to preference for size of motifs, and age was related to choice, size, and width of striped motifs. It was concluded that body type, height, and age are 1e3st effective in predicting color preference. Fabric motif preference was influenced more by age than by body type or height. Generally, there was some similarities in preference for lines and fabric patterns among slim body types, tall figures, and younger age groups as well as heavy body types, short figures, and older age groups.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.167-177
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• 2011

As today the world has been globalized, each country and race has been trying its best to preserve and develop its own unique culture to have its identity. Same exertion has been added in the areas of fashion and textile such as developing traditional textile or fabrics and applying them to the materials of modem fashion. The Korean traditional gold foil is one of invaluable cultural heritages, and another means to elevate the wearer's social status, and its beauty and artistic quality is very excellent. So, in order to preserve and develop of the Korean traditional gold foil, the exertion of developing the gold foil into multi-purpose modem fashion material which is endurable and practical by using the image of Korean traditional gold foil should be done. The purposes of this study are to preserve Korean traditional gold foil, to develop Korean textile and fashion industry by utilizing Korean traditional gold foil images in modem fashion. The results are as follows: textile designs applied plant motives of Korean traditional gold foil were carried out, modem fashion materials of Korean traditional gold foil image were developed by Jacquard weave. They were to certify that those were registered on the register of the Korean of design registrations from commissioner the Korean Intellectual Property Office, and developed fabrics of Korean gold foil image were examined the utility for modern fashion materials through using them in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.400-406
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2004

The clouds-shaped pattern is originated from Taoism, Buddhism, and Confucianism. It stands for good-luck, longevity and productivity. It has been used on its own or with other patterns since the ancient times. It also has various forms. It particularly was used more frequently than any other patterns as a typical good-luck pattern, representing auspiciousness, divine authority, and so on in Chosun dynasty. The pattern, according to its component parts, is classified as individual type and compound type, which is mixed with other patterns such as treasure pattern, plant pattern, letter pattern, or animal pattern. For both individual type and compound type, swastika-shaped cloud pattern was mostly used. For compound type, the pattern compounded of treasure pattern was extraordinarily used a lot. In terms of the arrangement, the most common arrangement methods were brick-shaped arrangement and dense type arrangement, the arrangement method that spreads the patterns all over the surface. Among the fabrics with clouds-shaped pattern, satin damask fabrics had the majority. Clouds-shaped pattern was used a lot in men's Po(coat), such as Dahnryoung, Jiknyoung, Chollik, etc. rather than in women's clothes. It was a typical pattern used in Dahnryoung, an official uniform that represented people in the highest class in Chosun dynasty. The divine power symbol of this pattern indicated the authority and dignity that the upper class people could have.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.421-426
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• 2004

In an information-oriented and internationalized society of the future, the quality and the price of goods made by each country will be equalized. That eliminates competition. But the design and appearance of products is an important factor in international competition. Indeed, design symbolizes a country's culture visually, and it can show the cultural identity and originality of a nation in international society. And that will play an important part that can contribute to creating added value. It is necessary to revive our people's old lyrical stories which are far away from our memory, and we badly need design development to revive traditional cultural merchandise through visual modernization. In this study, I chose lotus as the subject material of textile design development. And my intention for this study is to reflect Korean traditional cultural value as much as I can, and to develop textile design of Korean images by adding modern scenes. Also, I intend to print them on fabric, and apply them to cultural merchandise including scarves and ties, by using digital textile printing systems. The reasons for doing so, are to create high added value, and to let other peoples of the world, know about our excellent culture.