• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.123-132
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• 2009

Our government has declared the "Synthetic Project for Promoting Han-style" to industrialize and globalize the original form of Korea traditional culture. Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is one of the main subject of this project. However it is the global trend not to wear their traditional folk costume. And so, the number of people wearing Han-bok, our traditional folk costume is also getting gradually decreased in Korea. For Han-style Promoting Project in the future, it is one of the most efficient way for the middle and high school students to motivate and increase the interest about Han-style and Han-bok as the middle and high school uniforms. Adolescent middle and high school students think very important their appearance. Especially, Korean middle and high school students spend a lot of time in school, and so school uniforms are very influential in their mental and physical aspects. Fabrics for this study, they were woven twill with 3 kinds of fabric patterns from the motif of Baekje relics. The colors of fabrics is the blue and brown used in general school uniform, the yellow and red used in Han-bok. Considering the school uniforms, fabric patterns adapted the similar color matching method for not to be found cleary and designed the fabric pattern's one-repeat size is $4{\times}4cm$.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.40
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• pp.243-270
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• 2007

Linked pearls pattern expressed on textiles have no limited scale or shape when manufacturing, so they are free in expression. And from the design, material, and color we can analogize the social culture of that age. Oriental linked pearls pattern was started from the Sasanian Persia and introduced through the Silk Road, so it is closely connected with the East and the West culture. This study will consider from the 5th century to the 10th century; the mural costume of the West Central Asia, the ancient textiles excavated from the Sinjiang and Qinghai area of China, and the linked pearls pattern which are collected at Shosoin, Japan. And from this study, will concentrate on clarifying the linked pearls pattern's condition of the cultural exchange between the East and the West and it's structural variation process. The design of linked pearls pattern delivered to the East through the Silk Road is differed by area. For example, in the Western Pamir Plateau, where the ancient Sogdians mainly lived, the excavated linked pearls pattern's subject were deer or cassowary variated from the West Asian motif. But the ones excavated from Kucha Xingang had Chinese motifs added so they showed Chinese characters or Buddhist Bodhisattva image instead of Helios. Like this, the appearance of new patterns, which were accompanied by structural variations, gradually deviated from the standardized pattern of the Sasanian Persia. And this structural variation process has relations with the construction and arrangement method of various patterns of the after ages. The foliated floral Spray, which is placed at the lozenge space of linked pearls' space, had developed into ogival - shaped pattern (Neunghwamun). And the prevalence of geometrical structure pattern after the 10th century and the unfolding method of Tapjamun which is arranging unit pattern in order, are similar to the linked pearl pattern. In brief, linked pearls pattern accompanied by technical improvement let us understand the polished artistic code from its expression, and has importance in showing universal pattern beyond region and culture.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2004.08a
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• pp.340-341
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• 2004

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.67-78
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• 2012

This study considered and analyzed the influence of changed clothing silhouettes on the textile patterns by investigating the changes of geometry patterns in response to the changes of western women's apparel silhouette in the 1960s. The period scope of research was limited to the 1960s, and the research object was set as the geometry patterns seen in the designer's high-fashion. The researcher investigated the clothing silhouette and the textile patterns in 1960s by reviewing the literature about domestic and foreign books, research papers, domestic and foreign fashion magazines, information on the Internet. For the western women's apparel in 1960s, some active, simple styles were popular under the social atmosphere when more women actively entered the society. Influenced by popular art trends at that time, the silhouette was expressed in the geometry pattern among many textile patterns. The geometry pattern either appeared as a regularly overall repeating geometry pattern and the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern. The regularly overall repeating geometry pattern arranged the straight lines in the same interval. But the regularly partial repeating geometry pattern was arranged without order to emphasize the motif in some parts of clothing or to give some ornament effect, or was arranged asymmetrically.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.81-95
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to categorize the typs of fabrics and to analyze weaving method and pattern design on the silk fabrics from Jang-Gi Jung s tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follows. 1) Among the 32 pieces of excavated clothes, 90% of them were made of silk fabric and 65% used patterned silk. I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person of higher society who could afford the best clothes of the time. 2) The weaving methods of silk include tabby, twill damask with different direction (2/1 warp faced ground, 1/3$\cdot$1/4 weft faced pathern), self-patterned satin damask (4/1 warp faces ground, 1/4 weft faced pattern), and brocaded satin damask. 3) The arrangement of the motifs and the kinds of patterns on these silk fabric can be divided into two categories: first group is allover arrangement of peony or lotus and second group is the scattered arrangement of omen of luck. 4) Two pieces of fabric was stamped and the letters of the stamp make me to think about the possibility that the fabrics are from China. But to make this paint clear more relics of this kind should be excavated so that further research can be done.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.825-839
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• 2021

This study aims to develop jacquard fashion masks using traditional patterns and investigates the preference and emotions of consumers for them. Nine patterns were designed with the motifs of plum flower, turtle, and geometric patterns using an Adobe Illustrator program. After that, 20 kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed using those patterns, and prototype masks were made. Furthermore, data were collected using a survey of 231 adult consumers to understand the emotional images evoked by jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns. The results of the research show that the emotional dimension derived from jacquard fashion masks with traditional patterns consists of seven factors: luxurious image, frugal image, feminine image, oriental image, sporty image, geometrical image, generous image. We found that consumers preferred the M6 with the plum flower pattern as the motif as the most preferred design, while M13 with the geometric pattern as the motif was the lowest preferred.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.33-42
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to research the development of jacquard fabrics by the Bi-Dan patterns of Dan-Chung as one of the traditional korean symbols. For performing this design study, it designed a surface design of the geometric images in Bi-Dan patterns using by EAT Jacquard Textile CAD system and simulated to fabrics for the clothing & bags. To consider the modern image of Bi-Dan patterns in the Dan-Chung motives, the theoretical background was made on the basic elements, compositions and symbolic meanings of Dan-Chung patterns. To merchandise the fashion items and see the visual image, these jacquard fabric simulations was processed by two-dimension modeling through YoungWoo CNI CAD. The applied weave structure was based on a single layer of 5 or 10 points-satin and a double layer of 8 points-satin. Among the fabric simulations of Bi-Dan patterns, the six simulated fabrics were woven into the real jacquard fabrics under the electronic Stabuli jacquard loom in $120{\sim}130$ picks per inch and 171 ends per inch. These developed jacquard fabrics of Bi-Dan patterns were appeared a contemporary yet ethnic feeling so that they could make use of the unique korean cultural products by the further commercialization.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.143-155
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• 2013

This study examined the motif, weave structure, fabric density, and thread thickness of the patterned silks excavated from the Lady Lee's Tomb to trace the weave composition of the 18th Century in Korea. Different weave compositions were adopted depending on the weave structure. Two weave structures appeared in these patterned silks : simple gauze and satin damask. In the case of simple gauze Jergori, all the components, Gil(bodice), Somae(Sleeve) had similar fabric density and thread thickness. On the other hand, the satin damask Jergoris was composed of the components of different fabric density and thread thickness. According to the fabric density and thread thickness, the motif sharpness of damask Jergori was represented in three different ways : smooth and clear, rough and clear, and rough and vague. This revealed that Lady Lee selected not only pattern but also fabric density and thread thickness in the design of damask Jergori.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.120-134
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• 2021

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet's dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.69-70
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• 2011