• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.135-151
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• 2007

This study is human body measurement of 200 adult males in their 20s by both direct and indirect methods in order to reveal the representative male upper body types. Composition factors of body types were classified while the combination of direct-indirect measurement values was chosen. The following are the findings: 1) The analysis of direct-indirect measurement statistics showed the following results: 173.80cm (height), 69.87kg (weight), 95.58cm (chest girth), $24.67^{\circ}$ (right shoulder angle), and $9.34^{\circ}$ (shoulder width angle). 2) The factor analysis of the body types by direct measurement produced 5 factors: 1 (front length of upper body), 2 (front length of upper body), 3 (back length of upper body), 4 (circumference of upper body), and 5 (shoulders length). These factors accounted for 90.08%. Also, the cluster analysis of factor scores led to 3 types: 1 (33%, short, comparatively wide shoulders and full in the hips), 2 (25.1%, well-developed upper body in tall, inversed triangle), 3 (41%, average height, short upper body). 3) The body-type factor analysis by indirect measurement resulted in 6 factors with the explanation of 83.24%: 1 (rear upper bady thickness), 2 (front upper body width), 3 (front chest thickness), 4 (left-right shoulder angle), 5 (front width of protrusion distance in chest and shoulders), and 6 (neck's front-rear side angle).In addition, the cluster analysis of factor scores brought about 4 types: 1 (15%, well-developed front chest, beardless waist), 2 (23.5%, flat chest, with shoulder, drooping shoulders, strait neck), 3 (39%, with shoulder, curved back), and 4 (22.5%, narrow and thin, curved waist). 4) Among the 118 subjects (75%), 58 subjects commonly appearing in indirect measurement values group and direct measurement values group were chosen the representative body type group according to asterisk indexes. They had the highest frequency in direct type 3 and indirect type 3, whose combination represented the physical characteristics of the representative body types.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.101-110
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• 2005

Vivienne Westwood could be placed in a unique position in the contemporary fashion design. She has never belonged in a core group of mainstream fashion designer but not been always in an outsider position. She got from mainstream fashion designer circles enormous appreciation, even established fashion industry was influenced by her fashion design. She began her fashion design with rebellious T-shirts like 'destroy' T-shirt, chicken-bone T-shirt, and nipple-zipper T-shirt, all of which revealed her disgust against establishment. All these T-shirts testify her total negation tendency in her youth. However, she did not continue to keep such a kind of total negation attitude against establishment In 1980s she changed her political attitude towards establishment, and this change also found a reflection in her fashion design. In her pirate-collection the dark image of her fashion in the 1970s changed into a totally different bright image with full of gold colour. Although this collection had radiated brightness, it contained still outsider character from mainstream fashion design. The following fashion design in 1980s and 1990s evolved further on the line of Pirate-collection, but they continued to contain certain outsider characteristics. Vivienne Westwood kept some kind of anti-establishment attitude, and this attitude more or little came to the surface of her design. She was always political and critical to the establishment. In 2005, in her 64, she designed a liberty T-shirt, which showed her political attitude and her engagement in social issues. Also it showed the change from the early total negation to the constructive critical affirmation. In this paper the relation between the fashion design of Vivienne Westwood and her political attitude and the influence of her political attitude to her fashion design is analyzed.

• Archives of design research
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• v.18 no.4 s.62
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• pp.225-236
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• 2005

As a fresh trial using humorous items to escape from economic recession and uncertain state of mind regarding politics and society, fun is emerging as a keyword in design area. This study classified various use of fun reflected in modern fashion design according to the theme, and analyzed the mod of expression to identify formative characteristics. Through these processes, this study built conceptual structure of fun in fashion design. 412 fashion designs which represent fun were collected from 2001 $S/S{\sim}2005$ F/W collections. Data were analyzed and categorized. Results showed that the theme of fun in the modern fashion design could be classified into humor, kidult, irony, satire/parody, storytelling, and play. The design elements mainly used were color silhouette, letter, object, and drawing, while the design principles were distortion/exaggeration, incongruity, and repetition. In addition, these expressions were related to the traditional humor theory: incongruity-resolution, superior, and relief theories. The fun in modern fashion design has such value as affirmation, warmness, entertainment, youth, contradiction, surprise, deviate, allusion, attack, and description, Finally, in regard to the subject, the fun provides active experience like play as well as passive acceptance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.143-157
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• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 (1) 1970년대 서양복식에 존재하는 오리엔탈리즘의 반향에 대해 정의하고, (2) 서양 복식을 통해 표출된 오리엔탈리즘의 의미를 당시 정치, 사회, 문화적인 측면과 연결하여 탐구하는데 있다. 이론적 틀로는 문화인류학 이론에서 유래된 Hamilton의 Unifying Metatheory of Clothing and Textile(1987)이 적용되었다. 연구 방법으로는 1970년부터 1979년까지 미국에서 발행된 총 142권의 VOGUE 잡지 중 80권을 분석하여, 오리엔탈리즘이 보여지는 45장의 패션사진을 자료로 추출한 후, 연도, 디자이너의 소속 지역. metatheory에 따라 분석하였다. 각 연도별로 오리엔탈리즘이 표현되는 정도와 방법은 다양하였다. 서양디자이너들은 동양의 전통의상을 거의 그대로 모방하거나 하나 이상의 국가들의 전통의상 디자인 요소들을 하나의 복식에 혼합, 표현하는 방법을 주로 보여주는 반면, 동양 디자이너는 전통의상을 포함한 자국의 다양한 문화적 요소들을 서양복식에 도입하여 표현하였다. 또한, 본 연구에서는 복식에서 보여지는 시각적인 면의 분석과 더불어, 1970년대 당시 미국의 정치. 사회, 문화전반의 상황과 복식에 있어서 오리엔탈리즘의 도입과의 영향관계가 파악되었다. 따라서, 복식을 연구함에 있어서 문화인류학적 이론과 같은 다른 분야의 이론의 적용은 복식을 새로운 측면에서 이해하는 넓은 안목과 통합적인 틀을 제공한다는 측면에서 가치가 있다고 사료된다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.295-309
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• 2020

In 2019, Japan announced trade regulations against Korean products; consequently, the sales of Japanese products in Korea dropped due to a Korean consumers' boycott. This study measured the Korean consumers' political consumption behavior toward Japanese fashion products. Unstructured text data from online media sources and consumer posted sources such as blog and SNS were collected. Text mining techniques and semantic network analysis were used to process unstructured data. This study used text mining techniques and semantic network analysis to process data. The results identified boycotting Japanese fashion products and buycotting alternative products and Korean brands due to consumers' political consumption. Two brand cases were investigated in detail. Online text data before and after the political action were compared and significant changes in consumption as well as emotional expressions were identified. Product related industry sectors were identified in terms of the political consumption of fashion: liquor, automobile and tourism industry sectors were closely linked to the fashion sector in terms of boycotting. More "boycott" and "buycott" fashion brands (reflected in consumer attitudes and feelings) were detected in consumer driven texts than in media driven sources.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2017

This study uses a macro-viewpoint to investigate how female world leaders' clothing behaviors are different by nation and culture. This study conducted a comparative study on clothing behavior by cultural block in order to understand similarities and differences based on Hofstede's cultural dimensions theory. The findings are as follows. First, the clothing styles of female world leaders are categorized into classical suit style, national traditional style, and eclectic style. Second, classic suit style is more often found in countries characterized by high individualism, low power distance index, and low avoidance index. The style represents individual activity and rationality as well as trust towards women acting in men's roles. Third, a national traditional style is found in countries featuring high collectivism, high power distance index, and high uncertainty avoidance index. These countries share a culture that emphasizes harmony with the whole, rather than any one given part; consequently, clothing style represents a national identity (or the roles as a national member) rather than that of the individual level. Fourth, an eclectic clothing style is expressed in a mixture of classical suits and a national traditional style that depends on how much Eastern and Western cultures are reasonably compromised or Eastern tradition and Western culture coexist.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.2-5
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• 2022

With the advent of deep learning and the rapid development of ICT (Information and Communication Technology), research using artificial intelligence is being actively conducted in various fields of society such as politics, economy, and culture and so on. Deep learning-based artificial intelligence technology is subdivided into various domains such as natural language processing, image processing, speech processing, and recommendation system. In particular, as the industry is advanced, the need for a recommendation system that analyzes market trends and individual characteristics and recommends them to consumers is increasingly required. In line with these technological developments, this paper extracts and classifies attribute information from structured or unstructured text and image big data through deep learning-based technology development of 'language processing intelligence' and 'image processing intelligence', and We propose an artificial intelligence-based 'customized fashion advisor' service integration system that analyzes trends and new materials, discovers 'market-consumer' insights through consumer taste analysis, and can recommend style, virtual fitting, and design support.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

Since Sirimavo Bandarinaike became the first female prime minister in 1960, women all over the world has been trying to break the highest glass ceiling. In a place where men had been dominating throughout history, women political leaders had to find a way to look the part by wearing power suits. Feminity was out of the question until the digital era of 21st century started. The world has evolved into a place where feminity could be strength instead of weakness. Now women political leaders are showing body curves, cleavage, using vivid and pastel colors, soft fabrics, elaborate details, accessories, long and curly hair. The padded shoulders of dark coloured power suits were replaced by soft colorful flowing feminine suits. Yulia Tymoshenko of Ukraine is the best example of 21st century woman political leader using feminity in her fashion style while enacting her role. When she first started politics in 1990's, she wore dark colored power suits like all other women political leaders did with short dark hair. As time passed her suits became more feminine with light colors and elaborate details. She has changed her hair into a neat braid, based on a traditional Ukrainian hair style. She used orange color for the Orange Revolution and white for pure image. Yulia Tymoshenko's fashion style as a way of role enactment showed professionalism, feminity, integrity, and ethnicity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.23-40
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to explore the aesthetic characteristics of outerization phenomenon of contemporary fashion. Outerization, transforming underwear as outerwear, is one of the most dominant and widespread fashion trends in the dawning of new millenium. Fashion always exists for living body and tributes to express idealized beauty of human body and aesthetics of the era. If so, exploring the formative expressions and aesthetic characteristics of outerization would be an meaningful guideline to deduce changed relationship between fashion and body of the 21st century. The methodology of this study is to research of fashion collections such as Paris, Milan and New York which were held the first decade of new millenium, from 2000 Spring/Summer to 2009 Spring/Summer. The styles expressing outerization were selected and assorted based on the main formative expression. Then the aesthetic characteristics were classified. The way of expression of outerization is categorized into 4 parts ; Transition, Exposure, Transparency, and Deconstruction. Aesthetic Characters of outerization is classified 4 assortments as well ; Eroticism, Fun with parody and kitch, cyber culture, Gender politics, and Power fetish. Eroticism is the most clearly identified one. Coming out of underwear imply naked body itself, so it has erotic appeal. Fun is the second character. A pleasant sensation from the outerization of undergarments maximizes a disposition of play from parody, kitch, and cyber culture. The third is Gender Politics and it introspects how the society consumes woman body in history and modern times. Power Fetish, the last one, speaks for the female body with changed vision for femininity underneath the sphere of influence of feminism and post modernism, then emphasizes the subjectivity and independence of woman. From the research above, this study will help to understand the overwhelming outerization phenomenon and contribute to expansion of the horizon of the study of fashion aesthetics. It will serve fashion creative source through various outerization cases as well.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.233-253
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• 2024

This study analyzed differences between three-dimensional (3D) body scanning and manual measurements, aiming to assess whether 3D scanning can replace traditional anthropometric tools, such as tape measures and calipers. Data from 4,478 participants in the 8th Size Korea Project were analyzed, covering 43 measurement items. Since Given that the 3D and manual measurements were performed on the same subjects in the 8th Size Korea Project, it was possible to determine the correlation more accurately between the two measurement methods more accurately. Using Applying ISO 20685-1(2018) standards, 15 out of the 43 items fell within allowable error limits. When classified into six types, "small circumferences" and "segment lengths" showed averages of 3.35 mm and 3.10 mm, respectively, within acceptable range. "Body heights" and "body depths" slightly exceeded the limit, with averages of 5.28 mm and 6.58 mm. "Body widths" and "large circumferences" surpassed the limit, with means of 16.77 mm and 16.18 mm. The study offers an objective basis to for validate validating 3D measurements' measurements' reliability and accuracy, addressing various industries' needs for information on the human body's dimensions information.