• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.183-196
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• 2015

This study aims to develop sleeve pattern of tailored jacket which shows seamlessly beauty of females in their twenties who have relatively smaller change of body compared people of other ages and has outstanding functional operation. So we selected a pattern of manufacturer who received highest score after evaluating wearing condition of three types of jacket in the industry, whose targets are career women in their twenties and then tested its appearance and functional operation of 6 experimental jackets with armhole depth of B/4 and B/4-1(cm) along with sleeve cap height of A.H/3, A.H/3+1, A.H/3+2. As a result, the pattern which has good result of external appearance evaluation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+2 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3+1. The pattern of good result for movement adaptation were sleeve with armhole depth of B/4-1 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3 as well as sleeve with armhole depth of B/4 and sleeve cap height of A.H/3. So we could find that the larger is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on adaptability of jacket it makes and that the smaller is the armhole depth and height of sleeve, the better influence on movement adaptability of jacket it makes. It has been proved that armhole depth of tailored jacket of females in their twenties doesn't affect significantly on its appearance when designing it but it makes good influence on movement adaptability when experimental clothing has armhole depth of B/4-1and that sleeve cap height of A.H/3 that is 1cm shorter than A.H/3+1 which is used in industry makes good influence on appearance and functional operation.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.85-97
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for obese women in 20s and 30s, providing a good fit and appearance. The results were as follows: among 3 kinds of patterns collected in order to develop a jacket pattern to fit the average body of an obese woman in 20s and 30s, a business-type pattern(which was comparatively evaluated as a good fit) was worn and revised so as to design a final research pattern with proper fitness and a good shape. The biggest problem of the existing pattern was may overall spares, especially many spares of bust size, waist measurement, hip circumference, all of which makes a bad appearance. Considering the results of a survey which indicates that young obese women like tight-fitting clothes, bust size was decreased from 8 cm to 6 cm, and their waist measurements were bigger compared to other age groups, so a total of 1.1 cm(with 0.3 cm in the front, back side, and 0.5 cm in the back waist) was decreased. The hip circumference was decreased by 2 cm from H/2+4 to H/2+2 cm, the quantity of front deflection was established as 1.5 cm in order to compensate for the coming off of the front side caused by the fat on the stomach.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.454-467
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• 2015

Reflecting the consumer's desire to look young, the "down-aging" trend, which blurs the distinctions between age groups, is the latest craze in the fashion market. The popularity of this trend made brand identities similar, resulting in customers becoming more interested in segmented notions of fashion (in terms of the story, design, high-quality material, etc.) regarding the product, and in particular, focus has become oriented to the fitness to the human body. In this sense, the researcher aimed to develop the prototype of a slim-fit tailored jacket that fits the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s well. For the purpose of this research, slim-fit tailored jackets from existing brands were collected and analyzed, and a subsequent wearability test was conducted based on the standard somatotype of women in their 30s. The research patterns were prototype of the developed slim fit tailored jacket are bust size of 3.8 cm, waist of 7 cm, and hip size of 3.8 cm. Then the research patterns were selected to develop the prototype of a properly fitting slim-fit tailored jacket. As outlined above, the development of a slim-fit tailored jacket prototype for the standard somatotypes of women in their 30s was conducted by solving the fitness issues of existing brands in order to produce properly fitting jackets that satisfy consumers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.755-764
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• 2013

This study intends to use the basic patterns in 3oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets made for women in their 20s to research the proper ease of 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets. The study also proposes a method of designing padded jacket patterns according to padding thickness. The results of this study are as follows: The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve padded jackets had the following sizes. The front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+2.5cm and B/4+3cm, W/4+2.6+3.3(D)cm and W/4+1.5+2.6(D)cm, and H/4+2.8cm and H/4+3cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 62.4cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 63.4cm. For the 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets, the front and back bust, waist, and hip circumferences were calculated as B/4+4cm and B/4+4cm, W/4+4.1+3(D)cm and W/4+2.5+3.6(D)cm, and H/4+4.3cm and H/4+4cm, respectively. The length of the jacket was 63.2cm, and the sleeve length was calculated as 64.2cm. The results of this study showed that padded jackets with thicker padding need more ease. For jackets with stitches, the decreased lengths must be added in the pattern length. The 2oz bodice and 2oz sleeve, 4oz bodice and 3oz sleeve padded jackets all scored 4 points or higher in the movement functionality assessment, thus showing outstanding movement functionality.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.781-788
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• 2010

To work in the fashion industry which has entered the digital age, and in specialization and high-industrialization age, one needs to attain various skills required for the qualifications of a fashion specialist. For these, qualification certificate systems are enacted to nurture specialized technical personnel, and among these, a jacket pattern is selected from the practical examination of Western-style dress skill prepared for nurturing specialist who can design, cut, and sew women's clothing, to be compared and analyzed against the existing printed practical textbooks, technical books of making clothes which used as college textbooks, and local documents of theoretical study documents. The methodology of the research is to select 8 samples for the study, analyze the identity with the design, and then cut applying the identical dimensions and compare the measurements, and make the clothes using each cutting methods, and inspect to find the consistency with the design and made statistical analysis. As a result, we designed and made research patterns, and suggested a jacket pattern design to patterns simply that suits the design fast.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.881-903
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• 2021

This study aimed to analyze adult men's body sizes and shapes and suggest size specifications to provide preliminary data to academia and industries. A total of 814 adult men aged 30-44 were selected from the 7th Size Korea data, and 55 direct upper body measurement and calculation items were analyzed using SPSS 25.0. In individual Individual differences, thickness, circumference, and width were high, and height and length were low. Height above the waist base line and shoulder dimension decreased in early 40s age group, while height below the waist base line declined as age increased. In addition, buttocks shape changes were found in early 40s age group. According to factor analysis, 'upper body and upper-extremity horizontal size', 'torso height and upper extremity length', 'shoulder dimension', 'upper body length' and 'shoulder angle' were derived. Using clustering analysis, four different body types were classified: i) big abdomen with flat chest, ii) slender with big, raised shoulders, iii) dwarfish with small, droopy shoulders, and iv) obese with large shoulders. 'Slender with big, raised shoulders' was a typical body shape among men aged 30-44. In older participants, the 'big abdomen with flat chest' ratio was low, while 'obese with large shoulders' was more common. This study proposed size specifications by body type considering the above characteristics.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.552-561
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• 2006

This study was conducted to suggest an appropriate jacket bodice pattern for elderly women by comparing the developed pattern with existing ready-made jacket pattern. The developed jacket bodice pattern was produced from the basic sloper in which elderly women's somatotype was fully reflected, by using the newly developed 3D pattern design system. Subjects were 6 elderly women aged from 60 to 69 who have average somatotype in their age group. This study carried out pattern analysis and self-sensory test with three ready-made jackets(national brands) and suggested a developed jacket pattern based on the results. According to the self sensory test results of ready-made jacket, wearing fitness among brands was significantly different even though those brands were same B91 size. The results of ready-made jackets' pattern analysis, size differences among patterns have influenced wearing fitness. The basic numerical formula for the jacket pattern considered elderly women's somatotype were as follows; $B/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), $W/4+2{\pm}0.2{\sim}0.5$(difference of front and back), H/4+2~7(ease amount), armhole depth B/4, chest width B/6+1, back width B/6+3 and back neck width B/12+0.5. According to the results of the developed jacket's appearance evaluation, it earned higher scores in silhouette and ease amount, confirming that the developed jacket is appropriate for the elderly women. Also, in the evaluation on space length, the developed jacket pattern was evaluated to allow proper space length in all around of measurement parts.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제21권9호
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• pp.310-320
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• 2020

방탄소년단(BTS)은 전 세계 주류 음악 시장에서 한국의 대중음악을 선도하는 그룹으로 자리매김하고 있으며, BTS가 선보이는 다채로운 패션 스타일은 해외 매체나 대중들의 쇼셜 네트워크에 집중 조명될 정도로 큰 관심을 받고 있다. 본 연구는 BTS의 패션 스타일의 분석을 토대로 그들의 패션 경향을 파악하는데 목적이 있다. 연구방법 및 범위는 BTS 및 BTS의 패션이 미치는 영향력에 관련된 이론적 연구와 함께 최근 5년간 방탄소년단의 이미지 자료를 토대로 한 내용 분석 연구를 병행하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 직선적인 실루엣이 강조된 슈트, 무채색의 활용, 간소화된 장식을 통하여 클래식하면서도 모던한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 둥근 어깨선이 강조된 봄버 재킷, 톤 다운된 스키니 진, 후드 티셔츠, 레터링 패턴, 비비드한 색상을 매치하여 자유분방하고 편안한 감성의 캐주얼 스타일을 선호하고 있는 것으로 나타났다. 셋째, 슬리브리스의 베스킷볼 셔츠, 라운드 네크라인의 베이스볼 셔츠와 반바지, 트레이닝팬츠, 레터링 패턴이 강조된 오버핏 맨투맨을 활용하여 역동적이고 활동적인 스포티한 스타일을 추구하는 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권9호
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.