• 한국복식학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국복식학회 2004년도 제29회 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회
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• pp.49-49
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• 2004

현대는 대량생산에 의한 기성복이 보편화됨에 따라 불특정 다수인 소비자의 체형과 요구에 적합한 의복을 빠른 시간 내에 생산하기 위해서는 정확한 패턴제작과 소재 및 봉제 요소들이 충분히 고려되어야 한다. 패션산업 현장에서 패턴을 이해하지 않고서는 디자인이 제 기능을 발휘하기 어렵다. (중략)

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권7호
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• pp.1008-1019
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop an appropriate jacket pattern for elderly women over sixty years old, providing a good fit and appearance. Results were as follows: The length of the jacket was made long enough to cover the area 22.0cm below the waistline. The waist back length was made 1.7cm longer than the actual size of the waist back length. The armhole length was made 0.5cm longer than B/4, enhacing the appearance and functionality while allowing freer movement of the arms. As for the front and back interscye breadths, the front interscye breadth was made 1.7cm larger than the actual size while the back interscye breadth was only 1.0cm larger, providing the front interscye breadth more space. The bust breadth was made 10.0cm larger than the bust circumference measure(B/4+2.5cm), the waist breadth was made 6.0cm larger than the waist circumference measure(W/4+1.5cm), The hip breadth was made 12.0cm larger than the him circumference measure(H/4+3.0cm). The sleeve length was made 3.0cm larger than the arm length measure, as the sleeve length of a jacket is usually long enough to cover the ulnar styloid. The sleeve width was made 5.0cm larger than the upper arm circumference measure, as the upper arm circumference measure of the model pattern was too large than necessary, worsening the overall appearance. The sleeve cap height was set at AH/4+4.7cm. The wrist circumference of 27.0cm was set, allowing 2/3 and 1/3 for the large sleeve and small sleeve respectively.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권3호
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• pp.116-137
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to develop jacket patterns that could fit well for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome body shape and to present a pattern drafting method. As a research method, an educational pattern was chosen through a preliminary experiment. Fit problems of the educational pattern were derived by wearing it on a virtual model with a turtle neck syndrome body type for each neck angle. Based on the three types of experimental patterns developed by supplementing these problems, a development pattern drafting method was developed for each neck angle. Three development patterns were compared and evaluated with the educational pattern using 3D virtual fitting. Fit problems of the educational pattern included: 1) insufficient ease amounts for hip, hem, bicep, elbow, and sleeve hem circumference; 2) horizontal items could not be leveled due to insufficient back length; 3) the shoulder line went backwards; and 4) the front center line did not form a vertical line. To solve these problems, an experimental pattern was developed by increasing the insufficient ease amount, increasing the insufficient back length, and correcting the position of the shoulder line. Measurements that differed in the pattern drafting method of the three types of development patterns by neck angle were positions of back center line and back neck point, front length, and front neck width. Through appearance evaluation of the development pattern and educational pattern by neck angle, the development pattern was highly evaluated, indicating that problems of the educational pattern were improved.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.15-29
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• 2014

Setting the ease amount takes the important part to the fit that consumers satisfies. Therefore, it is required to create a pattern for off-the-rack jackets that considers the proper amount of ease. However, few studies have been done previously regarding the ease amount of jacket pattern for the women in their 20s whose demand for jacket is high and who are sensitive to the fit. Therefore, this study selected top five brands in terms of sales and preference among the national female apparel brands. It obtained a tailored jacket pattern for basic size (55 size) and made the jacket. Then, an expert panel group put the pattern on Hani body, a torso dummy for education made by the anthropometric data of Size Korea for females in their 20s and conducted an evaluation on the ease amount and analyzed the results. As a result, the ease amount of the Pattern A was evaluated as proper and that of the Pattern B was found to be lease proper. From the fact, we can see that each of the top 5 off-the-rack brands has different ease amount, though they are of the same basic size (55 size).

• 한국HCI학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국HCI학회 2007년도 학술대회 1부
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• pp.123-130
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• 2007

본 논문에서는 기존 패턴캐드시스템 및 드레이핑시스템을 이용한 의복제작과정의 한계점과 개선가능성에 대해 알아보고, 이를 기반으로 새로 디자인한 의복제작시스템을 소개한다. 이 시스템은 원피스, 바지, 셔츠, 재킷 등 옷의 큰 스타일인 의복템플릿으로부터 의복디자인을 시작 한다. 소매, 카라, 포켓, 넥라인과 같은 템플릿 디테일들은 디자이너가 마음대로 다른 세부 템플릿들과 교체할 수 있으며, 세부 템플릿으로 커버할 수 없는 디테일한 수정은 3D 드레이핑 시스템과 2D패턴에디터에서의 직관적인 오퍼레이션을 통해 이루어진다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.137-143
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to prove the work efficiency of PDS by measuring the work time on the process of pattern making of woman's tailored jacket. Also compared to the manual work time, PDS work efficiency is estimated according to experience difference. The YUKA CAD system was used. Through analysis of PDS Process, work time was measured by stop watch. Also the appearance of the 2 jackets was evaluated by a pool of evaluators consisted of graduate students and experienced professional modelist. The results were as follows: The work efficiency of PDS is higher than the work efficiency of manual work. There were significant differences of work time between work types in the expert and inexpert group. A study compared the work efficiency by PDS work type with those by manual work type according to experience difference and found that the work efficiency by PDS in the expert group was 25.3%, in the inexpert group was 35%. There were significant differences of work time between experience groups in PDS work, the work efficiency of expert group to inexpert group in the total pattern making time by PDS was 36.7%. There were no significant differences of appearance of tailored jacket between work types.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.40-47
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• 2006

Three-dimensional body scanners were used for years in the clothing manufacturing fields. The 3D body surface provide essential data to draft patterns for mass customization, virtual fit model, and computerized patternmaking systems. This research proposed the methods of drafting patterns for men's jacket by using three dimensional body scan data. Eight male subjects were scanned, the surface data was flattened. The differentials of the flattened body surface and the jacket draft were measured, and analyzed the regressions. To verify the fit of the patterns, the jacket was constructed by the regression formulae and tested by experts. The fit of the jacket were significantly improved rather than a ready-made suit especially the shoulder areas. This means that the methods that we proposed were good to improve the fit of the garments and could be used effectively to implement mass customization strategies in the apparel retail industry.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.701-715
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• 2016

This research compared 3 types of jacket pattern design methods for men's wear (age range 25-35) in textbooks. We are to develop research pattern with problem solving based on an analysis of three jacket patterns. The comparative analysis revealed that loose-silhouette slopers A and B scored high in functional evaluation and low in appearance evaluation. However, the tight-silhouette slim-line sloper C received high points in appearance evaluation, but low scores in functional evaluation. All three slopers were evaluated low in the back appearance. The design characteristics of the development jacket sloper were: front width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+0.8cm; side width, 1/10 chest+5.5cm; back width, ($1/10chest{\times}2$)+1.5cm; armscye depth, 1/8 chest+11cm; waist back length, 1/2 jacket length+5cm; and hip length, 1/2 (jacket length-waist length)+1cm. The proportions against jacket length were applied to waist length, hip length, and the position of chest/waist pockets. In addition, the back part with low appearance estimation was adjusted as comfortable with the back curve line. Appearance evaluation and 3D clothes modeling system (CLO) showed an overall improvement in the developed jacket sloper when compared to the original jacket slopers.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권10호
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• pp.177-189
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop a suitable jacket pattern for elderly women. The subjects were two women of the ages of 65-70, who had different bust size. To reflect the ready made pattern drafting systems, 4 industrial patterns were selected. After analyzing the problems of these patterns, a new jacket pattern was proposed. The results were as follows : 1) The amount of appropriate ease in fitted jacket for elderly women was about 10cm at the bust circumference, 10∼12cm at the hip circumference and the height of sleeve cap was AH/3+0.5cm. 2) Considering an enlargement of waist and abdomen, difference between front and back size was 2cm on the bust line, 6-8cm on the waist and hip line. 3) Because of the shape of concavity of back-waist, center back line in the pattern was folded by 0.5cm from center back waist toward side seam for manipulation. 4) The new jacket pattern was compared with the existing pattern through the wearing test by sensory evaluation. It showed that the fit and comfort of experimental pattern was superior to those of the existing pattern.