• 출판저널
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• 통권356호
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• pp.32-33
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• 2005

• 비교문화연구
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• 제45권
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• pp.433-478
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• 2016

이 논문은 국내에서 수년 전부터 유행하고 있는 북유럽디자인 소비에 대한 분석을 통해 한국 소비문화의 흐름에서 일본의 역할을 조명하는 연구이다. 비서구 국가 중 유일하게 선진 자본주의 국가의 대열에 합류했고 1980년대에는 미국과 경제력을 다투었던 일본이었지만 문화적 영향력에 대한 평가는 낮았다. 그런 일본이 1990년대 들어 대중문화상품으로 동아시아 지역에 어필하다가 대중문화 상품의 인기가 가라앉은 후에는 만화, 게임, 애니메이션 등 오타쿠계 서브컬쳐로 글로벌한 문화적 영향력을 행사하고 있다. 이 글에서는 1990년대부터 부상한 일본 문화의 영향력을 새로운 자포니즘으로 보고 한국의 북유럽 소비가 자포니즘의 매개와 주도 하에 진행되어 왔음을 제시한다. 일본이 구성한 북유럽에 대한 의미와 상징이 한국의 북유럽 소비에서 관철되고 있다는 의미이다. 의미와 스타일의 측면에서 일본의 슬로무비는 북유럽디자인에 미국발 '킨포크' 코드를 결합시켰다. 디자인의 측면에서는 아르누보를 매개로 일본 미학은 북유럽디자인과 시각적 유사성을 얻을 수 있었고 일본 가와이이 자카소품을 통해 북유럽디자인과 시각적 친숙함도 확보했다. 무엇보다 일본 잡화브랜드들이 출시한 북유럽풍 생활소품들을 통해 일상 속으로 북유럽디자인이 스며들었다. 또한 국내의 북유럽 소비는 일본 오타쿠들이 서브컬쳐를 포스트모던하게 소비하는 방식인 데이터베이스 소비방식으로 진행되고 있다. 일본이 만들어낸 북유럽에 대한 모에 요소가 한국에서도 북유럽 소비의 기호로 작동하고 있는 것이다.

• 복식
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• 제59권7호
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• pp.114-126
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the art characteristics of Japonism expressed in Art Nouveau jewelry. This study also provided an opportunity to seek for the development direction of contemporary jewelry design for the future. The influence of Japanese arts in Art Nouveau jewelry, was mostly from Ukiyo-e, an art form from the Edo Dynasty in Japan. Japanese arts soon inspired the origination of Art Nouveau across Europe in the late 19th century. And the scope of its infuluence is shown in jewelry which created by contemporary painters and designers. Ukiyo-e, a folk painting was created from multi-color wooden printmaking emerged many Japanese art collectors, including Samuel Bing and Arthur Lasenby Liberty. This became a source of new inspirations for Degas, Monet, Gogh and the origin of Japonism. The layout techniques that used perspectives higher than eye level and that extremely cut or expanded major objects for emphasis were typical Ukiyo-e characteristics. The result of this study is found out by showing the evidence that influence of this Ukiyo-e's method came up with specificity as planity, naturality, decoration and express on the Art Nouveau jewelry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The term Japonism was coined in France where the predilection for Japanese art forms was immediately apparent, influencing Impressionism, Symbolism, Post-Impressionism, and later the Art Nouveau movement, all of which reflect aspects of Japanese art adapted to Western style. The 1968 May Revolution in Paris changed traditional thinking and shifted the center of fashion of the 1970's from haute couture to pret-a porter. At about the same time, having recovered from the destruction of war, Japan started to emerge as a leading economic force. The Japanese clothing designers, who were inspired by their own traditions, began to present their collections in the West. Hanae Mori's dresses with Japanese floral motifs were the first to appear. The West was captivated by the colorfully layered clothing of Kenzo Takada inspired by peasant and working class kimonos. And Issey Miyake was acclaimed for his innovative concepts of ‘one piece of cloth'. In the 1980s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto achieved recognition with their deconstructivist and minimalist approaches to fashion. The clothing proposed by these Japanese designers has transcended not only national and sexual boundaries, but also those of accepted materials in which to work. These designs suggest new possibilities and are unrestricted by preconceived ideas of kimono or of Western clothing. The emergence of Japanese designers as a powerful creative force in the late twentieth century has created a new dimension to the term Japonism in fashion. By integrating the clothing traditions of the West and Japan, while at the same time departing from them, a new international genre of clothing has been created.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.595-603
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• 2015

The influence of Japonism, which is the post-mid-$19^{th}$ century phenomenon of appreciating and preferring the Japanese style that manifested all across Western art, started to grow as a result of the active open-door policy of Japan at this time. As all areas of Japanese arts and culture, such as paintings, sculptures and theater plays, influenced Europe and America, this influence developed into a cultural phenomenon that was reflected even in fashion. The characteristic elements of the kimono first expanded from Paris and showed a similar silhouette to that of the traditional kimono in the early $20^{th}$ century, but towards the middle and the end of the century, kimono sleeves that were connected as one piece without a connecting seam line between the sleeve and bodice started to appear. The foundation of this research focuses on the design characteristics of kimono sleeves that can be seen in $20^{th}$-century fashion, and five varying kimono sleeve jackets and coats based on these formative characteristics were designed. Each design had a gusset design added, which improved the external and mobility problems inherent in kimono sleeve patterns, while at the same time serving as a proposal for new design element applications. Additionally, through various changes to and attempts at designs using the kimono sleeve as a limiting factor, new design possibilities were explored.

• 복식
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• 제53권6호
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.