• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.154-163
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• 2009

Incident wave angles are conventionally estimated by the directional spectrum analysis of wave data collected from in-situ sensors. The in-situ measurements are limited in monitoring incident wave angles in the wide surf zone, since the techniques are typically expensive, labor-intensive, and point-measuring. In this study, estimation of incident wave angles using wave crest features captured in digital video imagery is proposed to observe incident wave directions over the surf zone. Line signatures of wave crests having high image pixel intensities are extracted by moving an interrogation window to identify high intensity pixels in sequential video images. Wave angles are computed by taking the first derivative of the extracted crest signatures, i.e. local slope of the crest signatures in the two-dimensional physical plane. Compared to the wave angle estimates obtained by the directional spectrum analysis, video-based wave angle estimates show good agreements in general.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.188-196
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• 2009

This study conducted numerical simulations to analyze the wave characteristics(distribution) depending on the directional changes of waves in the Nakdong river estuary by using SWAN(Simulating WAves Nearshore) model. The results from the tests are summarized as below. The wave height rates are generally highly distributed with the incident waves from the S, SSE, SSW, SE, SW in sequence. When the waves from the S, SSW, SSE directions are predominant, the bigger waves were observed in front of sandbars. According to the results of the wave steepness against the wave direction, at the east coast of Gadeok island(northwest of Nakdong estuary), where has mild seabed slopes, the wave height rates distribute in the range of 0.4~0.6; the wave height rates over the west coastal region of Dadeapo(southeast of Nakdong estuary) are 0.5~0.6. The wave height rate tends to be rapidly decreased over the east region of Nakdong river estuary rather than its west region.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.161-169
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• 2020

Physical experiments have been performed in a wave basin to investigate change of the wave loading on the crown wall under obliquely incident wave conditions. The measurement was carried out with wave incidence angle of 0, 15, 30 and 45°. The pressure transducers were placed on the front and bottom face of the crown wall to obtain horizontal and uplift force as well. It was found that both the horizontal and vertical force decreases with the incidence angle. Based on the analysis of the experimental data, a formula was suggested to estimate the reduction rate of horizontal and vertical forces under obliquely incident waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.21-32
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• 2003

In this study, the reliability design method developed by Hanzawa et al. in 1996 for calculation of the expected damage to armor blocks of a horizontally composite breakwater is extended to take into account the variability in wave direction such as directional spreading of waves, obliquity of the design principal wave direction from the shore-normal direction, and its variation about the design value. To calculate the transformation of random directional waves. the model developed by Kweon et al. in 1997 is used instead of Goda's model, which was developed in 1975 for unidirectional random waves normally incident to a straight coast with parallel depth contours and has been used by Hanzawa et al. It was found that the variability in wave direction had great influence on the computed expected damage to armor blocks. The previous design, which disregarded wave directionality, could either overestimate or underestimate the expected damage by a factor of two depending on water depth and seabed slope, if the assumption of the present study that the stability formula for breakwater armor blocks proposed for normal incidence can be used for obliquely incident waves is valid.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 1993.07a
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• pp.42-44
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• 1993

최근, 불규칙파를 조파시킴으로서 발생하는 실험실 스케일의 해빈변형에 대해서 그 정선변화 뿐만아니라 수심변화까지 포함한 수치 simulation모델이 개발되었다. 그러나 현지파랑은 파고, 주기가 불규칙하고, 또한 입사파향도 일정하지 않기때문에, 앞서 논한 예측법에 의해 현지연안에서 발생하는 지형변동을 예측하기 위해서는, 현지파랑중 어떠한 방법으로 대표파고를 선정할 것인가가 큰 문제가 된다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.141-147
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• 1995

Various numerical models for predicting wave deformation have been proposed. Among them a time-dependent mild-slope equation based on the line discharges and surface-elevation changes has been widely used in the wave fields with reflective waves. If applying this model to the case of obliquely-incident waves, not only the open-sea boundary but also one of the lateral boundaries should be treated as incident boundaries. In this study, Maruyama and Kajima (1985), Copeland (1985) and Ohnaka and Watanabe (1987)'s method are reviewed and the characteristics of these methods are analyzed using e normalized wave heights, wave angels and phases obtained from the numerical experiments. It is shown that Ohnaka and Watanabe(1987)'s method provides the most adequate driving boundary is the most suitable in e wave field with a general bottom slope.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.511-520
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• 2007

WAM(WAve Model), deep water wave model has been extended to the region of shallow water, incorporating wave breaking, and triad wave interaction. To verify the model, numerical simulation of waves in Youngil bay, Pohang is performed and the simulated results show good agreements with measured wave data sets, one station at the mouth of bay and two stations inside the bay. As waves propagate toward the shore, wave height gradually diminishes by bottom friction and wave breaking, and wave direction, initially NE changes normal to the shore due to depth refraction.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.174-184
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• 1996

In the present study, for fully-open rectangular harbors, sensitivity analyses are made for the major parameters which are relevant to the practical application of a hybrid element model widely used fur the analysis of harbor oscillation. The results show that it is desirable to extend the finite element region to the area in which depth change is not large and that it is appropriate to take the depth of the outer region for analytic solution as the average along the boundary between the two regions. It is expected that the number of Fourier components of the analytic solution may not be important for a constant-depth simple-shaped harbor but its significance may increase for harbors of varying depth and complex geometry. It is found that the effect of incident wave direction is not significant for the first resonance mode but its effect becomes important as the bottom slope increases, especially for the higher resonance modes.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.15-21
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• 1989

A simple numerical refraction model is presented. The model takes into account refraction, shoaling and bottom dissipation. Eikonal equation and equation of energy conservation are discretized by an explicit finite-difference method, which provides wave angle and height at each grid point, respectively. Applications of the model were made to simple geometries as well as complex geometries, and some advantages on computing time and stability have been observed.