• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.29 no.8 s.145
• /
• pp.1146-1157
• /
• 2005

As individual family has fewer children, market sectors targeting children's goods upgrade their products quality and price. Children's wear used to be for casual activity or going to school. Recently, occasions in which children are dressed up are getting increase, such as wedding, concert or family gathering. Therefore, the industry sector of formal wears for school boys are growing. The purpose of this study is to research and grading of formal wears for school boys to improve their fit and comfort. The selected items as formal wear were tailored jacket, tuxedo, tail coat and pants. Based on the grading increments of the industry, grading was done far 7 years and 11 years old school boy for each item. Like the pattern alteration, grading increments were tested and altered through wearing tests. The final increments were suggested as the 'researched grading increments'. The results and conclusions are: 1. Appropriate size allowance, ease amount and lengths for boys are different from those far adults. The difference should be applied for boy's wear. 2. Grading increments for an age group are different from other age group. For example increments of 7 from 9 are different from that of 11 from 9. It is because a certain part grows faster during a certain age whereas other part grows faster during different period. Therefore grading for children should reflect their growth rather than same size increments which is common in adult size chart.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.1
• /
• pp.133-150
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to recognize of the sizing system and analyze the fitting on formal pants of the on-line shopping mall for plus-sized women. To pursue this purpose, the investigation of the sizing system was focused on 22 online companies. The formal pants of 7 companies was selected among them. And actual sizes were compared with the guidance sizes of goods. For the assessment about the fitting on formal pants of 7 online companies, these came to make on to 16 obese women with 'A' body shaped and 'O' body shaped. A data analysis used the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, this study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. 1. All of 22 companies were using the symbol such as 88, 99, 100 and 110 in the present condition of sizing system. The information about products size was presenting the products size not to be the body size. the guidance sizes of products were different from actual sizes of 7 companies to be assorted. Therefore, the guidance sizes of goods could not accomplish the facility. 2. According to the fitting-tests by the sensory assessment, the obese women with 'A' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the items of the hip circumference, abdominal region, crotch deep and pants length. The obese women with 'O' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the the items of crotch deep and pants length.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.59-71
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study was 1) to analyze the consumers' preference on the recent trend in men's wear according to their lifestyle and 2) to suggest a suitable direction for men's wear planning based on the lifestyle analysis. A survey was applied to obtain the data set responded from 310 male subjects who were aged between thirties and fourties. The main results of this study are summarized as follows: 1) Five types of recent fashion trends were identified through a qualitative analysis on the recent men's wear trend, which were 'Modern classic casual', 'Retro traditional casual', 'Authentic/Ethnic casual', 'Urban dandy street casual' and the 'Refined sportive casual'. 2) The three types of the respondents' lifestyle were identified in this research and named as 'pursuing sense', 'pursuing tradition' and 'conservative indifference'. Examining the preference on fashion trends according to subjects' lifestyle and etc., the preference level of the 'pursuing sense' group on trend was, in general, higher than that of the two other lifestyle groups. The most preferred trend style of 'pursuing sense' group was the 'Modern Classic'. Finally, a suitable direction for men's wear planning was suggested on the result of analysis in this research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.28 no.12 s.138
• /
• pp.1605-1616
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this study was to investigate the commonly accepted ease for a custom-fit business jacket, which provides all customers with the optimum fit regarding their individual body sizes, shapes as well as their personal preference, and also to characterize the factors which affects the ease amount, thereby, supply the reference data to manufacturers of the apparel industry. This study consisted of anthropometric measurements as well as sensory evaluations, and analysed ease amount by body sizes, ages, fit satisfaction, self-perception of body, and the prefered fit levels. There were 272 subjects for anthropometric measurement of which 128 subjects were applied for ease analysis and sensory evaluation. The subjects were males of 20 to 65 years old. The ease at chest was the most sensitive to body sizes and shapes, while waist and hip were easily modified to accommodate the silhouette of the jacket. The main dimensions affecting individual perceptions of fit and ease were the characteristics of body shape, in particular, girth, followed by age. Customers paided most attention to the shoulder fit while customers who preferred a more fitted line showed more concern with ease for jacket fit. It was clearly observable in case of waist fit preference. In addition, the preferred fit at chest, waist and hip would be changed by the perception of ons's hip size.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2011

This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.804-812
• /
• 2017

This study builds a database that can be reflected in the production of dress form for fitting by typifying the upper body shape of a senior male. This study analyzed the 3D shape data of 405 persons of the 5th Size Korea. The age range is from 50s 210 persons and 60s 205 persons. Analysis items to identify upper body shape of senior males consisted of 51 items. 3D shape data were also measured using a Geomagic Design ${\times}$ program for the analysis of the upper body of the senior male required for the dress form of this study. The reference point was based on the Size Korea 2010 3D measurement standard and created points (Back-protrusion) on shape data. As a result of the senior men type, the senior men's body type was classified into four types:1. Overall, the upper body is a large body type and the most undistorted overall body type 2. Width / Thickness Flatness is the largest and vertical length factor is the smallest abdominal obesity type 3. Severe flexion of the back part type 4. The upper body is small and the scapular bending is severe. The elderly body type showed a high distribution ratio in the type with severe flexion. The development of a dress form that reflects the cause of the finery issue can improve the fit of ready-to-wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.768-776
• /
• 2017

This study analyzed the relationships among actual body types, perceived body types, body-image discrepancy(difference between perceived and ideal body), and body satisfaction, and their effects on jacket fit satisfaction at 17 body parts of women in their 20s. To apprehend the actual body type of subjects, total 18 items were measured according to the anthropometric method of the 6th anthropometric survey project. The relationship between body-image discrepancy and body satisfaction was correlated in all body parts. Body-image discrepancy and body satisfaction were more affected by perceived body size than actual body size. The fit satisfaction level of the jacket was found to be lower as the discrepancy between the body type and the ideal body type was recognized. As the waist girth, hip girth, armscye girth, and upper arm girth were smaller, the height was taller, bust girth and breast size were larger, these body sizes were considered as closer to the ideal body shape and the jacket fit of the area was more satisfied. When the perceived body sizes and the actual body sizes were compared, the women in their 20s tended to perceive their waist, abdomen, and hip as larger, their shoulder length and front/back interscye as longer, their breast size as smaller, and their waist height as lower than the actual size.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.625-634
• /
• 2014

This study develops a sizing system of mass-customized male suits for wheelchair users. One hundred and three male wheelchair users' 21 anthropometric dimensions were measured to identify body shapes and develop a sizing system. The measured wheelchair users' body sizes were compared with the average body sizes of Korean males from the $6^{th}$ Korean Body Size Survey to understand the body size differences between two groups. As a result of body shape classification using the KS's Drop method, wheelchair user body shapes were classified into four shapes for upper-body (A: 32%, B: 26%, BB: 24%, and Y: 18%), and two shapes for lower-body (B: 70% and A: 30%). The upper-body of wheelchair users was relatively developed than Korean males; however, the lower-body was relatively stunted. The key dimensions of a sizing system were selected as chest circumference, waist circumference, and trunk length, outside leg length based on the correlation analysis between anthropometric measures. The top sizes were determined considering chest and waist circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally the trunk length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes. The bottom sizes were selected considering the waist and hip circumferences for horizontal sizes, and additionally their outside leg length was divided into short, medium, and long groups for vertical sizes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.27 no.11
• /
• pp.1318-1329
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.