• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
• /
• no.48
• /
• pp.117-145
• /
• 2012

Gongsageunmunrok is a book that was edited by Jung Jae-ryun. He edited and chose some stories good enough to be an role model to descendants. There were all about 310 stories in that book. A forth of them is story about women. There were 4 types of women in the book. cautious women and women to see through a covered fact.Women who have a lot of authority, women who ask a man something, The women cautious women are generally a royal family. They tried to stabilize their royal family and nation. The way to stabilize was a good behavior. Women who have authority harms equitably and authenticity of official business. Requesting women, also, harm fairness of official business. Gongsageunmunrok has many different meanings like the following. First of all, There are women life of royal family's women in the book. Second, It is the book which can be based on later stories about women. Lee Geng-ik(李肯翊) rewrote on Yeunreusilgisul(燃藜室記述). Especially, Kim Reu rewrote the story titled 'Hansukwonjeon(韓淑媛傳)'. Sung Hae-eung,also, rewote Han Bo-hyang's story. Third, There are many stories with the life of court maid. It is useful to study all the life of court maid, political events and current events. Forth, It describes with women's aspects. Therefore many women's clique can be understood. Fifth, It can show women's literary work and a phase of women's literary activity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.59 no.3
• /
• pp.96-108
• /
• 2009

This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.5
• /
• pp.51-70
• /
• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.3
• /
• pp.19-33
• /
• 2008

Hair style of royal ladies in the 19th century according to the wedding record of King Heon-jong and Lady Sunhwagung is studied in this paper and summarized as follows: First, Saengmeori was a bridal hair style for the wedding night in Gyeonmagi(jacket) and Daeranchima(Skirt with gold trimming). It was a typical girls' hair style before the coming-of-age ceremony. It was composed of Saengmeoridari(wig), Seockunghwang, Jogduri(Coronet decorated with Jewellery), Saengdaeng-gi(hair ribbon) trimmed pearls, and jade disk trimmed pearls. Second, Garaemeori(double bun hair style) was the hair style with Wonsam when the chosen bride went to Byeol-Gung, a special palace for the bridal. It was composed of Gareachi(wig) and Cheopji(small wig) with the frontal hair ornament, jogduri, and Saidang-gi(hair ribbon). Third, Jojimmeori(single bun hair style) is a basic hair style for the madame. It was composed of jojimmeorichilbo, jogduri, jojimmeoridari(wig), and Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament. Fourth, Keunmeori is the second most important hair style for the court ceremony. It was composed of Eoyeomjogduri, Eoyeomdari(wig), Cheopji with a frontal hair ornament, Keunmeoridari(wig), and Keunmeorichilbo. Fifth, Susik, the most important hair style for the court ceremony, is the hair style for ceremonies including the day of becoming the formal queen, the first greeting day to the King's family. It was composed of 4 kinds of wigs and Susik-chilbo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.6
• /
• pp.115-126
• /
• 2002

This study is regarding on the shroud of Jeonjoo Lee (Inpyoung clan's lady) excavated from the Andong Gwon's grave. who had passed away at 1722. Through this research, we understood the way of fetal ceremony by 18 centuries' royal family, and the costume style in those days. The style and size of shrouds were likely similar with ordinary dress. For the upper dress, Lady Andong Gwon wore a piece of undershirt (sosam), 3 layed jacket(Joggoli), an upper jacket (dangui) with patched badge as well as a gold brocade formal dress(wonsam). And for the lower dress, 2 layed underpants(dansokot) and 2 layed long skirts were worn. Especially, prototype of the waist band for shroud(gowdo) and a kind of headgear(gokdoli) was found in this study along with the headdress for woman's shroud(yomo) and the shoes for woman's shroud(chahwea). In this study, understanding the costume of upper class at 18 centuries during Chosun Dynasty.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
• /
• v.9 no.5
• /
• pp.83-90
• /
• 2023

The recent trend in younger generations of wearing traditional costumes or incorporating fusion hanbok into daily wear necessitates the development of modern hair accessories to complement hanbok. The purpose of this study is to develop practical and modern hair accessory designs inspired by royal women's hair ornaments that complement hanbok, and therefore expand the scope of fashion content development utilizing hanbok culture as well as meeting the demand for various experiences of traditional culture. This research studied the literature on traditional hairstyles and accessories of Queen Yeong and constructed models of these accessories for the purpose of empirical research. The production process first required creating a basic foundation of nylon mesh reflecting the silhouette of a traditional hairstyle, and then grafting a digital textile printed fabric using majestic and extravagant royal relics on top, thus employing the trompe l'oeil technique to ultimately give the impression of wearing traditional jewelry. As a result, a total of six hair accessory designs were completed, produced with hairbands, hair pins, and hair ties. In addition, the accessories are designed to be easily worn regardless of the wearer's hair style, and the stiff yet flexible nylon mesh effectively expresses the shape of a voluminous hairstyle and creates an optical illusion, blending into the hair. These research results present a unique aesthetic and cultural experience to the greater public seeking both daily entertainment and value from rarity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.76-86
• /
• 1996

복식사 연구의 한 방법으로서, 문헌을 통하여 다량의 정보 수집이 가능할 경우, 사회과학의 분야에서 사용되어 온 내용분석법을 도입하여 정보의 수량화를 꾀할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 내용분석법을 이용하여 1856년부터 1870년에 이르기까지 미국 여성의 평상복(daydress)중 재킷과 치마의 유행 경향을 당시의 대포적인 패션 잡지인 Godey's Ladies Book과 Perterson's Magazine의 패션 삽화를 토대로 분석하였다. 1856∼1870년은 미국의 남북전쟁 발발 5년 전부터 남북전쟁 직후 5년까지 의 15년간의 기간을 이르며, 해당 15년은 전쟁 전, 전쟁 중, 그리고 전쟁 후의 5년간씩의 3 시기로 나뉘어졌다. 연구의 목적은 여성 평상복의 디자인이 위의 기간 동안 남북전쟁의 한 영향으로서 군복 '라일의 경향을 띄게 되는지의 여부를 조사하는 것이다. 군복 스타일의 경향은 몸에 꼭 맞는 실루엣(fitted silhouette), 에플렛(epaulet), 스텐딩 칼라(standing collar), 더블 여밈 (double-breastedness) 다수의 단추의 사용 및 장식(buttons)으로 정의되었다. 여성스러운 스타일의 경향은 풍성한 실루엣 (full silhouette), 플라운스가 된 치마(flounced skirt), 그리고 러플/fp이 스/리본 (ruffles/lace/ribbons)의 사용 여부로 정의되었다. 연구의 초점은 객관적이고 체계적인 문헌 정보의 수집 방법을 수립하는 데 있었으며, 수집된 자로는 각 변수의 빈도 분포포에 의해 조사되었다. Fitted silhouette, epaulet, 그리고 standing collar는 제 3시기에 가장 많이 나타났고 제 1시기에 가장 적게 나타났다. 여성스러운 스타일에 있어서 full sihouette과 trounced skirt는 제 1시기에 가 장 많이 보였고 전쟁 당시와 전후에 점차적으로 적게 나타났다. Buttons나 double breastedness 등은 제 2시기에 가장 많이 보이고 제 3시기에는 오히려 가장 낮은 빈도수를 보였다. 반면에 ruffles/lace/ribbons는 fitted silhouette 등의 군복 스타일의 변수와 더불어 제 3시기에 가장 많이 보인 것으로 분석되었다. 전반적인 유행의 경향에 있어서, 군복 스타일의 변수와 여성스러운 경향의 변수를 각각 종합하여 분석해 보면, 제 2시기를 중심으로 전자의 유행은 점차적으로 증가하고 후자의 유행은 감소되고 있는 것을 볼 수 있다. 그러나 당시 미국 패션은 유럽 왕실의 유행에 의해 크게 영향을 받은 것을 감안할 때 본 연구의 결괴는 서양 복식의 역사의 선상에서 조심스럽게 해석되어야 할 것 이다.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
• /
• v.52 no.4
• /
• pp.226-245
• /
• 2019

Beopjusa Gwaebultaeng (Large Buddhist Painting), designated as Treasure No. 1259, was painted in 1766 and featured Yeorae (Buddha) at the center in the style of a single figure. It is the longest existing buddhist painting and was created by Duhun, a painter who was representative of 18th century Korean artists. His other remaining work is Seokgayeorae Gwaebultaeng (1767) in Tongdosa Temple. Considering their same iconography, they are assumed to have used the same underdrawing. Duhun had a superb ability to maintain a consistent underdrawing, while most painters changed theirs within a year. The Beopjusa painting carries significance because it was not only painted earlier than the one in Tongdosa, but also indicates possible relevance to the royal family through its records. Beopjusa Temple is also the site of Seonhuigung Wondang, a shrine housing the spirit tablet of Lady Yi Youngbin, also known as Lady Seonhui. Having been built only a year before Beopjusa Gwaebultaeng was painted, it served as a basis for the presumption that it has a connection to the royal family. In particular, a group of unmarried women is noticeable in the record of Beopjusa painting. The names of some people, including Ms. Lee, born in the year of Gyengjin, are recorded on the Bonginsa Temple Building, the construction of which Lady Yi Youngbin and Princess Hwawan donated money to. In this regard, they are probably court ladies related to Lady Yi Youngbin. The connection of Beopjusa Gwaebultaeng with the royal family is also verified by a prayer at the bottom of the painting, reading "JusangJusamJeonhaSumanse (主上主三殿下壽萬歲, May the king live forever)." While looking into the historical characteristics of this art, this study took an approach based on scientific analysis. Damages to Beopjusa Gwaebultaeng include: bending, folding, wrinkles, stains due to moisture, pigment spalling, point-shaped pigment spalling, and pigment penetration to the lining paper at the back. According to the results of an analysis of the painting pigments, white lead was used as a white pigment, while an ink stick and indigo were used for black. For red, cinnabar and minium were used independently or were combined. For purple, organic pigments seem to have been used. For yellow, white lead and gamboge were mixed, or gamboge was painted over white lead, and gold foil was adopted for storage. As a green pigment, atacamite or a mixture of atacamite and malachite was used. Azurite and smalt were used separately or together as blue pigments.

• KOMUNHWA
• /
• no.63
• /
• pp.43-64
• /
• 2004

Scholars have been discussed about Korean Family History till now, however it is very doubtful that the maternal mother's family was disregarded. Perhaps, the stem of Korean family is a patrilineal society so that the maternal mother's family was disregar

• KOMUNHWA
• /
• no.69
• /
• pp.41-62
• /
• 2007

This thesis is focused on the bat symbol, especially prevalent crafts’ pattern in late Joseon period on museum collections. For the use and reperception of them, I am aimed for appropriate analysis of bat symbol by co connotation which reflects the characteristics on number.plastic.color symbol. This point of view, bat idea and bat paintings in Joseon period will be the source of meanings to the denotation of bat patterns. In the museum collections, bat paintings and patterns are calculated 324 objects. By functional classification, the bat patterns on dwelling-crafts for the royal and for the people will be discussed. In result, the bat paintings were only a few, however, usually connoted Taoist hermit with super-natural powers.longevity.protector of Lightning-God.praying for long life, which were based on Taoism. Meanwhile the bat symbol of dwelling-crafts for the royal projected the longevity and prosperity of king and queen. By he Five Blessings and good auspices in Ching dynasty, number of '5.4' implied 'Five Blessings', Through the correct recognition of homo-phone, "a bat(蝠, fu)=happiness(福, fu)$\rArr$five bats(五蝠)$\rArr$Five Blessings(五福 )." In the case of bat symbol on the dwelling-crafts for the people, especially its for women, it expressed on the metal-decoration of furniture and paper-crafts. In the metal-decoration, the signified of bat symbol were expellant-evil('guard') that of characteristic signifier, white-silver color, number '1' and 'flying-type'. The bat symbol on paper-crafts for the people signified 'double happiness'.harmony.sons with number of '2', 'Five Colors' and the transformation of 'flying-type'. Accordingly, the bat symbol on the dwelling-crafts for the people marked 'happiness and guard', because the people had concrete cognition the bat symbol as a denotation of 'happiness and 'guard' by itself