• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.85-85
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.726-739
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• 2010

This study investigates and compares the changes in ethnic fashion presented over a 30-year period to understand the diversity of ethnic trends according to historical trends. Data were collected from 59 volumes of "Vogue" magazine for January and July in each year from 1980 to 2009. The data used for content analysis consists of 407 words and these were condensed into three periods according to the decade (1980-1989, 1990-1999, and 2000-2009). The selected words were classified into five sub-themes according to previous research definitions such as Asian look, European look, American look, African look, and Oceanic look. The results are as follows. First, ethnic fashion was highly presented in the 1990s and 1980s, and decreased in the 2000s; of note is that the Asian look appeared more in the 1990s. Second, ethnic fashion showed a higher frequency of F/W seasons in the 1980s and S/S seasons in the 2000s, while both seasons had a higher frequency in the 1990s. The sub-themes of coexistence were presented 26seasons out of 59 seasons. The coexistence of the Asian-European look was evident in the 1980s and 2000s, while the sub-themes coexistence was more diverse in the 1990s. Third, the words selected from sub-themes of ethnic fashion demonstrated the differences by decade. In particular, various fabrics and patterns appeared in the 1990s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.1750-1759
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to comparatively analyze the color characteristics of the Japanese ethnic look advanced by Japanese and western designers in comparison with the actual traditional colors of Japan. The data determining the traditional colors of Japan was collected through a critical apparatus examination of 250 colors and the color data of what determines Japanese ethnic look was collected through an analysis of the clothing appearing in four fashion collections -Paris, Milan, London, and New York- from the 2004 S/S collections to the 2008 F/W collections. For the analysis of these colors, Photoshop was used with an RGB value measuring under 300dpi resolutions. The RGB values were then converted to H V/C values through Munsell Conversion 8.0.3, and they were analyzed using Munsell's 40 Hue and PCCS. The results of this study are as follows: Japanese designers are expressing their own aesthetic theory by designing fashions in traditionally Japanese hues. However, neutral colors and low-chroma tones appear more often than traditional colors. This study illustrates how these designers use color to reflect their inside ideals being oversensitive traditonal ideals. In contrast, western designers reflect more contemporary trends through the use of hues that more clearly reveal their preconception of the colors of the Orient rather than actual traditional Japanese colors. Moreover, these foreign designers tend to approach fashion design by the means of shape rather than color. Japanese designers systematically analyze and apply their own culture to contemporary fashion design. Their efforts serve as a good reference model for research on traditional culture and fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.293-319
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• 2003

Retro, one of these fusion styles, was found in various pattern in fashion. Recent fashion trend shows coexistence with variety which cannot be represent by one or two themes, and introduces various images in a season. Therefore, this study was found three fusion image of Retro pattern which has appeared since 1990; Romantic, Ethnic, and Hippie-look. shown in VOGUE, BAZZAR and etc. 1, Romantic image overcame the exaggerated style of 18th century and expressed in a volume gown, a tight dress of high-waist, and bustier. In addition, beads or sequin became more brilliant and gorgeous which decorated the whole clothing. 2. Ethnic image was expressed with fusion of particular traits from all of the world such as Japan, China, India, South America, Greece, and Africa. 3. Hippie-look image has been shown in slim & long silhouette style, and fusion styles of romantic factors or ethnic factors were also found. Retro as one of the phenomenon of fusion was found in romantic image, ethnic image and hippie-look Image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.145-156
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• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1043-1051
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• 1998

The main purpose of this paper was to investigate how ethnic dresses are adopted into modern fashion designs. This research focuses on Japan and Vietnam as a part of an ongoing larger project which examines ethnic dresses of five Asian countries. Fashion designs with influences of Japanese and Vietnames ethnic dresses were anlayzed in order to explore how ethnic dresses coexist with "world fashion" in contemporary society. Eight fashion magazines were examined and the pictures of eigher Japanese or Vietnamese influences were identified. A total of 66 pictures for Japan and 5 for Vietnam were analyzed in terms of eleven characteristics on zero-to-three scales according to authenticity of each characteristic. The characteristics included shape, item, silhouette, color, material, textile print, decorative details, method of dressing, accessories, hairstyle and make-up. The results showed that textile prints and color of Japanese ethnic dresses, and item, silhouette and hat of Vietnamese dresses were most frequently adopted in modern fashion designs. These suggested that fashion world adopts the most distinctive and easy-to-copy characteristics of the ethnic dresses when the designers wanted to incorporate the styles of ethnic dresses.c dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.