• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2002

Among various numerical methods of wave transformations including wave breaking by structure, models using VOF(Volume Of Fluid) method to trace free surface are getting into the spotlight recently. In order to analyze wave transformations and velocity of the wave fields due to the permeable submerged breakwater(PSB), This study applied VOF method to the two-dimensional wave channel installed line-source to generate waves and added dissipation zone to offer a non-reflective boundary. Hydraulic experiments was performed to obtain the application of two-dimensional numerical wave channel. The results of numerical experiments using the two-dimensional wave channel agree well with the experimental data. It was shown that vortices are formed behind the PSB, and in case of the 2-rowed PSB they also are occurred in between PSBs, strongly non-linear waves are developed on the crown of the PSB, and the direction of velocities in porous media is determined by the shape of free surface.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.212-220
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• 1993

A numerical model for the transformation of irregular waves in a coastal area is developed, which takes account of shoaling, refraction, diffraction, bottom friction and wave breaking. The governing equations are the usual energy conservation equation and kinematic conservation equations, but to consider the diffraction effects additional terms are included in the usual kinematic conservation or wave number equations. A linear superposition technique is used to represent the spectral formation. and an explicit formula is developed for the estimation of friction factor of irregular waves. A breaking criterion of component waves, which is the modified form of the Kitaigorodskii saturation relation, is employed to restrict the growth of shoaling waves in very shallow waters. The model was applied to a laboratory test and satisfactory agreement was obtained between the computation and measurement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.108-115
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• 1991

This paper aims at the elucidation of the characteristics of longshore current profile after wave breaking. Wave breakers are always accompanied by complex turbulent process, wave energy losess occur and the mean water level also varies due to the gradient of radiation stress. These with other factors result in the development of longshore currents. Longshore currents have relations to the alongshore sand transport and to the diffusion of contaminants in nearshore region, thus the understanding and elucidation of them are very important from the engineering point of view. Using the calculated results, the factors such as lateral mixing cofficients, bed shear stress. wave angle. wave steepness and bottom slope. which are influencing the longshore current profile. are examined. Also, by comparing the results of longshore currents with the experimental data obtained by other investigators, the procedure proposed in the present study is shown to be valid.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.12-23
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• 1995

Currents driven by irregular waves are modelled using numerical model with various empirical relations improved. Kitaigorodskii's equilibrium equation is refined to account for shoaling effect and used for checking the breaking condition. In order to compute the bottom friction realistically. equivalent roughness blights are estimated considering the ripple shape and bed load transport which may be significant the surf zone. Two sets of equations are employed to evaluate the ripple shape: one is suggested by Nielsen and the other by Madsen and Rogengaus. Both equations give similar shape of ripples. but Madsen et al. give lower value of ripple factor than Swart suggesting that the equivalent roughness becomes relatively small. Optimization technique is used to determine the proper values for the empirical parameters of $\kappa$-ι equations, and the longshore current velocity is computed using the values of empirical parameters determined by the optimization technique.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.217-222
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• 1991

Hydralic model experiments for permeable breakwaters with three different shapes of cap concrete were carried out in a two-dimensional wave channel to investigate the shape effects of cap concrete on transmission rate of the incident waves over the breakwaters. The model test results show that energy damping effects are significant in the following order; cap concrete with dissipation holes and apron, cap concrete with apron only, and cap concrete without dissipation holes and apron. It is concluded that the significant damping effects are due to energy dissipation of the incident wave as they pass through the holes and the apron.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.85-98
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• 1998

본 논문의 수치해법은 경계치문제를 풀기 위하여 코시이론(Cauchy's theorem)을 사용하였다. 경계치문제는 완전한 물체표면조건과 자유표면조건을 만족시키는 초기치문제로 귀결된다. 현 수치해법에서 무한영역은 수치계산 영역인 비선형 영역과 선형 자유표면조건을 만족하는 선형영역으로 나누어진다. 선형영역의 해는 과도 그린(Green)함수를 사용하여 정합조건을 부과함으로써, 수치계산은 비선형 영역에서만 수행된다. 본 논문에서 저자는 수치계산 영역에서 코시이론을 사용하여 적분방정식을 도출하였고, 무한영역의 해는 정합면에서 과도 그린함수를 사용하여 표현하였다. 본 수치계산에서 자유표면에 요소 재분배법을 적용함으로써 쇄파현상에 대해서도 안정적인 수치해석을 할 수 있었다. 본 논문에서 개발된 수치방법을 적용한 문제는 다음과 같다. 첫째는 자유표면에서 실린더가 강제동요하는 경우에 자유표면형상과 힘을 계산하여 이전의 실험치 및 계산치와 비교하였다. 두번째로는 실린더가 자유수면하에서 일정한 속도로 항주하는 경우에는 조파저항과 양력을 계산하여 고차 스펙트럴법과 비교하였다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers Conference
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• 2003.08a
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• pp.249-253
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• 2003

심해로부터 해안으로 전파해오는 파랑은 해저지형 또는 구조물 등의 영향을 받아 반사, 쇄파 등과 같은 변형을 겪게 되며, 이와 같은 파랑은 연안침식 및 해안구조물의 안전과 설계에 영향을 미친다. 수중방파제(submerged breakwater)는 입사하는 파랑에너지를 대규모로 감소시켜 연안침식을 방지할 뿐만 아니라 방파제를 수중에 건설함으로써 해역환경의 개선을 가능하게 한다. 또한, Bragg반사를 이용하여 수중방파제를 건설할 경우, 연안의 불필요한 침식 및 퇴적현상을 최소화할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라 입사파에 의해 발생하는 해안구조물의 손상을 사전에 방지 할 수 있다. 아울러, 항만의 정온도를 향상시키는데 효과적으로 이용할 수 있다. (중략)

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.1-7
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• 1998

Hull form development of the medium size high speed fishery patrol ship was carried out in the CWC at Chosun university. Same size of 15 knots class fishery patrol ship was selected as a parent form(Model number : CU-015), and modified fore and after body hull form under the slightly lengthened lo be suitable for the operation at 20 knots. To minimize the breaking wave in the vicinity of fore body at high speed zone, high bulb and sharp entrance angle were adapted. Meanwhile, to enlarge the engine room space keeping high resistance and sea-keeping Performance, U-type stern hull form was developed. Although the hull form was highly constrained in being limited to modification of a parent hull form significant wave resistance improvement was made.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.