• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.814-827
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• 2022

This study examines the social and artistic aspects of the Netherlands in the 16th century, focusing on the paintings of Pieter Bruegel the Elder (1525-1569), a repre- sentative Dutch painter at that time. Also analyzed were the types and characteristics of each item of the male populace's and nobles' costumes at that point in the Renaissance. The results are as follows: most of the populace's chemises do not have frills on the neckline and sleeves; the doublet has a loose body and sleeves overall; and the sleeves and armholes are fixed with sewing rather than being detachable, making the epaulet invisible. The neckline of the doublet usually does not have a collar, but it sometimes has a hood. In the case of trousers, most males are shown wearing waist-high stockings, and a piece of cord is visible. It seems that the populace's coats were mainly Spanish-style capes. The 16th-century Dutch populace's costumes are imitative-reflecting a desire to emulate the codpieces and hairstyles of the aristocrats-while providing individuality through hats and belts. In terms of practicality, it appears that a knife and pouch were used in various living environments. This trend can be seen as a reflection of populace's perception of the costume at the time.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.257-287
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• 1996

조선후기는 근대 서민 문예의 부흥기로서, 서민문예의 대두와 더불어 일어난 서민계층의 등장은 복식에 있어서의 대중 복식 문화를 부각시키면서 복식의 유행현상이 나타나게 되었다. 이 시기 모든 계층의 여성 복식에서 공통적으로 풍미한 유행사조는 과장된 치마허리 그리고 둔부를 volume감 있게 강조한 치마등을 통해 여체를 드러낸 선정적인 silhouette이 나타났다. 유교 규범에 의해 억제되고 절제된 여성들의 복식행동(clothing behavior)에서 이처럼 육체를 긍정한다는 것은 사회의 일정한 진보단계에 위치한다고 보겠다. 그것은 Eroticism자체는 영원한 인간의 본능에 의존하겠지만, 이 Eroticism을 통하여 어떤 사회적 질곡을 벗어나려고 하는데에 있어서는 그 Eroticism의 발로가 사회적 의의를 가지는 것이다. 그러므로 조선후기의 여성복식에서의 Erotic Mode는 여성들 자신의 것인 동시에 그 사회의 것이며, 그것은 가식적이고 표면적인 유교적 도덕관의 외피 속에 흐르고 있는 인간성의 폭로이고, 그것을 표현할 수 있다는 데에 서민문예의 진보성과 근대성이 있는 것이다.

• 복식문화학회:학술대회논문집
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• 복식문화학회 2005년도 정기총회 및 춘계학술대회 Proceeding
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• pp.62-64
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• 2005

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권12호
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• pp.1397-1404
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• 2003

2002년 월드컵 전야제에서는 한국문화를 소개해 세계인의 환호를 받았는데 그 중에는 칠석동 민속축제인 고싸움놀이가 펼쳐졌다. 칠석동 민속축제는 일반 서민복식의 전통복 형태를 보여주는 복식(服飾)을 실제 착용하고 축제를 행하고 있으므로, 점차 사라져 가는 전통복식을 놀이문화를 통해 직접 확인할 수 있다는 점에서 연구가치를 갖는다. 본 연구의 목적은 국제화 시대에 우리 전통문화에 대한 정체성 확립을 위해 시대적 변화에 따라 변해 가는 민속복식을 무형문화재로 지정되어 있는 칠석동 고싸움놀이를 중심으로 시대적 흐름을 통한 고싸움놀이의 전수과정에서 형성되어 온 민속축제복식의 구성과 특성을 살펴보는데 있다. 연구방법은 광주지역인 광산구 칠석동 마을을 중심으로 자료조사와 현장조사를 병행하였다. 자료조사는 민속에 관련된 전공서적과 무형문화재 조사보고서, 행사팜플렛 등을 참고하였고, 현장조사는 고싸움 축제에 참가하여 복식 전반에 대한사진촬영과 마을축제 참여하는 마을사람들을 중심으로 축제복식에 관한 면담조사를 하였다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식은 행사가 진행되는 내용에 따라 크게 4가지로 분류할 수 있는데 본격적인 고싸움이 시작되기 전날 밤에 당산나무에 제를 지내는 당산제 복식, 마을의 평안과 고싸움의 흥을 돋우기 위한 농악복식, 고싸움이 시작되기 전에 아낙네들이 손과 손을 맞잡고 둥글게 돌며 화합을 다짐하는 강강수월래 복식, 한해 풍년을 기원하는 고싸움복식이 있다. 칠석동 고싸움 축제복식의 특성을 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 구성면에서는 농경제의(農耕祭衣)와 안택축원(安宅祝願的)을 기원하는 민속놀이축제복식으로 일상생활에 착용하는 복식을 이용한 농경 의례복의 다(多)기능성이 강조된 것으로 나타났다. 둘째, 색상은 우리조상의 백의(白衣)의 상징인 일상복인 백색 위에 오방색을 사용하여 화려하고도 강렬한 원색의 색상조화가 특징적으로 나타났다. 셋째, 형태면에서는 양쪽어깨와 허리선의 면 분할이나 비례를 통해 허리부분의 동작에 따른 유동적인 선이 부각되고 있다. 특히, 평면구성의 단조로움은 흔들리는 몸동작에 따른 고름의 율동미와 축제복식의 착장 방법에 따른 한국복식의 형태미를 보여주었다.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.289-321
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• 1996

조선 후기는 임진.병자 양난을 계기로 사회전반에 급격한 변화를 겪으며 근대 사회로의 전환기를 맞는다. 즉 전쟁으로 인한 국가제도의 문란과 혼란해진 사회구조 속에서 신분제도가 해이해졌고, 상업경제체제와 화폐경제의 발달로 인한 부유한 중인 계층이 대두되었고, 사상적으로는 유교가 공리공론에 빠지면서 유교윤리의 약화현상이 나타나면서 현실치중 의식을 보이는 실학사상이 등장 하였다. 또한 서민문예의 대두로 서민의식을 가진 서민계층(서민의식을 가진 양반계층 포함)이 등장하게 되었다.이 서민 계층의 등장은 복식에 있어서의 대중복식문화를 부각시키면서 유행현상이 출현되었다. 그리고 대중은 이 전환기 사회에서 변화된 그들의 역할과 가치관은 이제 더 이상 지배층에게서 영향력 행사할 충분한 권력이나 매력을 찾지 못했다. 따라서 이들은 새로운 상징적 선도자(Symbolic leaders) 즉, 모범을 보여주는 새로운 대상을 찾았고, 그들의 상징적 선도자는 바로 '자유분방하고, 사회활동을 하는 독립된 여성, 그리고 시와 가무를 즐기는 풍류가이고 또한 신체적으로 매력을 지닌 멋장이인' 기녀들 이었다. 선도자 그룹인 기녀계층에 의해 제시된 새로운 Fashion과 Style인 Erotic Mode와 사치 Mode는 그 시대 사조를 반영하면서 대중이 의식과 기호에 크게 맞아 떨어지자 큰 호응을 얻고 수용되었다. 즉 이들대중은 선도자 그룹을 모방 함으로써 그들과 자신들의 동일시를 성취하고 선도자의 Prestige를 나누어 가지고자 했던 것이다.이러한 이유로 해서 기녀들은 하류계층임에도 불구하고 조선후기 시대의 "패션의식적인"사회집단으로서 대중으로부터 주목받고 대중의 기호를 장악하며, 그들의 복식행동은 대중으로부터 강한 수용을 받게 되면서 대중의 의복 행동에 크게 영향을 미치는 유행선도자(Fashion leader)였음을 보게 된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권9호
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• pp.901-915
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• 2012

This study comparatively analyzes the characteristics, changes, and differences in class-based costume typology according to a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. The methods and contents are as follow. First, the scope of common people is grasped according to the historical background and a concept of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people in France. Second, through considering a prior research on analyzing the data of ancient documents on the economy of clothing, it classifies common people into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute. It then examines diachronic evolution, and class-based synchronic difference in the consumption of $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century common people's costumes in France. Third, it analyzes the appearance frequency by period according to type of common people's costumes, which were shown in pictorial materials with 283 sheets of engravings and 54 pieces of paintings; in addition, it reconstructs the succession and expansion in typology. It grasps differences and changes in morphology by class, space, and period of typology for common people's costumes. Common people's consumption of costumes was understood to have grown in qualitative aspects as well as a rise in the whole clothing demand. A class-based structure formed and indicated that a fashion cycle existed. As a result of analyzing common people's clothes (shown in pictorial materials of the $17^{th}$ and $18^{th}$ century) 41 items were grasped by gender and according to costume kind. Typology in common people's costumes (classified into bourgeoisie, urban common people, rural common people, and the destitute) showed a change by period. A change in typical costume typology was accepted more by the bourgeoisie than by urban and rural common people, and was accepted more by rural communities than by urban populations. Thus, a difference was formed through an expansion with a temporal difference that depended on class and space.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.588-598
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• 2010

Purposes of this research were to examine characteristics of contractors and the relationship between contractors and wholesalers of apparel products. Influence of such variables on wholesalers' satisfaction was also assessed. Location, reputation and service were factors of contractor characteristics. Dependence, cooperation and power were three factors that were considered for contractor-wholesaler relationship variable. Survey data from 109 wholesalers located in Dongdaemun Fashion Town in Korea was used for analysis. Empirical results confirmed the importance of service factor of contractor characteristics. Service and location of the contractor had positive influence on cooperation. Location had negative influence on power. Reputation had positive direct influence on wholesaler satisfaction. Cooperation between contractors and wholesalers had significant influence on wholesaler satisfaction.

• 복식
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• 제23권
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.819-833
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• 2009

The current research focused on exploration of a well known Korean fashion and clothing industry cluster, Dongdaemun Fashion Town(DFT). Many clothing and fashion wholesalers in DFT with various business formats are trying to obtain competitive advantages. For the empirical study, a questionnaire was developed. Items measuring descriptive statistics for each business and contractor selection criteria were included in the survey. 161 data from Employees of various wholesalers of DFT were used for statistical analysis. Majority of DFT customers were buyers of Internet shopping malls and street retail shops. 64% of them used domestic contractors for sourcing products. Most of them managed less than three contractors. Contractor selection criteria were factorized as flexibility, production ability, stability, fame and location. Wholesalers were segmented into three groups: product oriented, flexibility oriented and stability oriented groups. Group differences in terms of business practices were assessed and strategic implications were included.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.119-131
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• 2016

With the increasing popularity of nonprofit thrift shopping, new marketing strategies are needed to respond to accelerated competition in the secondhand market. To help guide the development of marketing strategies for nonprofit thrift stores, this study aims to identify factors impacting consumers' buying behavior for secondhand fashion items sold in nonprofit thrift stores. Specifically, this study investigated 1) the effects of secondhand fashion selection criteria (i.e., design, brand name, lower price) and personal factors (i.e., gender, household income, beliefs about environment) on the secondhand fashion consumption experience in nonprofit thrift stores and 2) the moderating effects of point of purchase (POP) messages (i.e., "50% Off Sale," "New Arrivals," "Helping Others") on the relationships between purchase intention and impulsive buying in nonprofit thrift stores. An online survey was used to collect the data, and a total of 197 usable responses were received. The results showed that 1) gender, household income, beliefs about environment, and brand name affected the secondhand fashion consumption experience and 2) the POP message "Helping Others" negatively moderated the relationship between purchase intention and impulsive buying in nonprofit thrift stores. These results can help nonprofit thrift stores' managers to develop effective marketing strategies to increase their profits, which can be used to accomplish their mission of addressing social issues.