• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.102-115
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• 2017

This study aims to investigate the role and function of costume in the ancient society by analyzing the jade decorations, 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang,' recorded in "Zhouli". The method of study consisted of researching the record book "Zhouli" and comparing the antiquities with the images of the jades. Firstly, the jade decorations were different depending on class. The class system in Zhou dynasty was made up of 6 grades - emperor, duke, marquis, count, viscount, and baron. The jade decorations used by people in these grades were called 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang'. Secondly, this study grasped the system of 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang.' It identified 7 types of duties by matching the decorations on the jade to specific institutions. 'Gui', 'Bi', and 'Hwang' played a huge role in forming and maintaining to order and system during the chaotic Zhou dynasty. In addition, it became an essential part of understanding status, society, and political structure within a family power structure.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to understand the feature and phenomena of women's costume in Choson dynasty by the approach of semiotics. In order to do so, F Saussure's linguistic symbol theory, C. Peirce's conception on semiology theory and cultural semiology of R. Barthes ware used as tool to analyse traditional women's costumes in $Chos\v{o}n$ dynasty. And I choose basic conceptions based on their semiotic theory. which were langue & parole. dennotation & connotation, paradigm & syntagm, code, and analysed. structure of sign, communication though the non-language. The fashion of the $Chos\v{o}n$ dynasty contains various meaning as sign symbol system and makes the communication possible as it is mentioned above. We nay understand the sign symbol system described in the fashion sign by analysing the structure and meaning operation of sign on the basis of social, political, and idealistic background of the times, to understand the polysemy quality of the fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.48-63
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to provide information on how to improve both the satisfaction and the current sizing system for the school uniform focused on middle and high school boys' students. In order to collect the data, a questionnaire was administered to 451 middle and high school boy students. 228 middle school boys' and 223 high school boys' data were analyzed using the SPSS Win. 10.0 program. The results of this study were as follows : 1. For the satisfaction of their school uniform, there were statistical differences in mean of the group by the academic year in the jacket(color, textile, design, activity), shirt(color, design, activity), and pants(color, design, activity) in the case of middle school boys'. On the other hand, high school boys' evaluation of school uniform was significantly different in jacket(color), shirt(color, textile, design, activity), pants(design), and tie(color, textile, design) by the academic year. 2. For the evaluation of sizing fitness, the length of jacket and the breadth of sleeve in jacket, and the width of sleeve in blouse, the length of pants, and the width of pants were statistical differences in mean of the group in middle school boys' by the grade whereas there was no significant difference in high school students by the grade. 3. It was shown that more getting school uniform repaired after the point of purchase in both middle school and high school students was higher.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Recently population of figure skating is growing fast, so that the needs for girls figure skating wear of better quality and better fit is growing too. As the characteristics of figure skating require both strong stretching and grace movements, the skating wears should be designed to have sufficient extensibility and impressive effects through body movements. In order that the figure skating wear should be fit well by using right sizing systems. The purpose of this study is to find out how the figure skating wear specialists are using their sizing system. There were two separate comparative studies in this article. One is to compare girls' sizing system between countries such as USA, UK, Japan and Korea. This is to look into the characteristics of girls body measurements than adults or other ages. The other is to compare sizing systems of 88 figure skating wear specialists from 8 countries. As a results, it is suggested that there should be a practical sizing systems for figure skating wear, which uses common size code, measurements definition and size interval.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.966-981
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• 2018

Consumers' desire for beauty has become a driving force in the beauty service industry which was further developed through specialization and segmentation. Nail-care service, which is one of the beauty services, is showing rapid growth, and intense competition among salons has become apparent. Thus, service management method and marketing strategy are required for customer satisfaction. Therefore, in this study, we tried to classify the nail-care services on the basis of systematization and realization of its characteristics which are fundamental when developing management and marketing strategies. The subjects of this study were women in their 20s and above living in Seoul, Gyeonggi, and Incheon areas. As a result, the nail-care service factors are classified as "external environment" (interior, celebrity, newness), "internal environment" (equipment and products, cleanliness, and environment), "location" (location and transportation convenience), "reputation" (good reputation), "technician skill," "kindness," "relationship" (relationship, empathy, and affinity), and "price and discount." The consumer types of nail-care services were classified into three groups according to the degree of involvement of these concept systems. These results can be used as marketing basics and will be the basis for studying marketing strategies. However, the consideration of setting up a marketing strategy for each consumer type will be presented in a follow-up study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.2 s.111
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• pp.11-28
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• 2007

Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.76-86
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• 1996

복식사 연구의 한 방법으로서, 문헌을 통하여 다량의 정보 수집이 가능할 경우, 사회과학의 분야에서 사용되어 온 내용분석법을 도입하여 정보의 수량화를 꾀할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 내용분석법을 이용하여 1856년부터 1870년에 이르기까지 미국 여성의 평상복(daydress)중 재킷과 치마의 유행 경향을 당시의 대포적인 패션 잡지인 Godey's Ladies Book과 Perterson's Magazine의 패션 삽화를 토대로 분석하였다. 1856∼1870년은 미국의 남북전쟁 발발 5년 전부터 남북전쟁 직후 5년까지 의 15년간의 기간을 이르며, 해당 15년은 전쟁 전, 전쟁 중, 그리고 전쟁 후의 5년간씩의 3 시기로 나뉘어졌다. 연구의 목적은 여성 평상복의 디자인이 위의 기간 동안 남북전쟁의 한 영향으로서 군복 '라일의 경향을 띄게 되는지의 여부를 조사하는 것이다. 군복 스타일의 경향은 몸에 꼭 맞는 실루엣(fitted silhouette), 에플렛(epaulet), 스텐딩 칼라(standing collar), 더블 여밈 (double-breastedness) 다수의 단추의 사용 및 장식(buttons)으로 정의되었다. 여성스러운 스타일의 경향은 풍성한 실루엣 (full silhouette), 플라운스가 된 치마(flounced skirt), 그리고 러플/fp이 스/리본 (ruffles/lace/ribbons)의 사용 여부로 정의되었다. 연구의 초점은 객관적이고 체계적인 문헌 정보의 수집 방법을 수립하는 데 있었으며, 수집된 자로는 각 변수의 빈도 분포포에 의해 조사되었다. Fitted silhouette, epaulet, 그리고 standing collar는 제 3시기에 가장 많이 나타났고 제 1시기에 가장 적게 나타났다. 여성스러운 스타일에 있어서 full sihouette과 trounced skirt는 제 1시기에 가 장 많이 보였고 전쟁 당시와 전후에 점차적으로 적게 나타났다. Buttons나 double breastedness 등은 제 2시기에 가장 많이 보이고 제 3시기에는 오히려 가장 낮은 빈도수를 보였다. 반면에 ruffles/lace/ribbons는 fitted silhouette 등의 군복 스타일의 변수와 더불어 제 3시기에 가장 많이 보인 것으로 분석되었다. 전반적인 유행의 경향에 있어서, 군복 스타일의 변수와 여성스러운 경향의 변수를 각각 종합하여 분석해 보면, 제 2시기를 중심으로 전자의 유행은 점차적으로 증가하고 후자의 유행은 감소되고 있는 것을 볼 수 있다. 그러나 당시 미국 패션은 유럽 왕실의 유행에 의해 크게 영향을 받은 것을 감안할 때 본 연구의 결괴는 서양 복식의 역사의 선상에서 조심스럽게 해석되어야 할 것 이다.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.1
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• pp.142-160
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• 2023

The position of the people who participated in the Bapyo Ritual held in the reign of King Sejong and the corresponding costumes were examined. The king, who was the executive body of the ritual, wore Myeon-Bok, a court dress, and Myeon-Bok was Gujang-Bok made of Jang-wha on Guryu-Pyeongcheongwan. Crown princes, royal families, and government officials wore Oryang-Gwan and Jekraeui, which were Jobok. The crown princes' Joboks were changed from Oryang-Gwan to Wukryang-Gwan in the dynasty year 10 of King Sejong, and in the year of King Munjong's accession, Myeon-Bok was received, and after King Danjong, the crown princes wore Palryu-Pyeongcheongwan and Chiljang-Bok. Diplomats and Jongsagwan who were the envoys wore Sangbok. A Sangbok worn by the diplomat was Samo with Danryeong, Seo-Dae, and Hyeopgeum-Hwa, and a Sangbok worn by Jongsagwan was Samo, Danryeong, Heukgak-Dae, and Heukpi-Hwa. Byulgam, who served as an attendant to the king in the king's close quarters, wore Gongbok and Sangbok. Gongbok consisted of Ja-Geon, Danryeong and Heukpi-Hwa, and Sangbok consisted of orange color Cho-Rip, Jikryeong, Joa, and Heukpi-Hwa. The person holding San, Gae , Sujeongjang, and Geumwolbu wore Ja-Geon and Cheong-Ui, and Seon wore Pimoja and Hong-Ui. Siwigun wore armor and helmets equipped with weapons. Among court musicians, Aksa's costumes consisted of Bokdu, Bigongbok, Geumdonghyeokdae, Bibaekdaedae, and Opiri, and Aksaeng's one composed of Gaechaek, Bisuransam, Hyupgo, Mal, Maldae, and Opiri. As a result of the above, the process of ceremonial clothes becoming uniform clothes in the reign of King Sejong was confirmed. The king and lower-ranking officials such as crown princes, government officials, diplomats, Byulgam, armies for ceremonial weaponry, and court musicians participating in the Bapyo Ritual wore the highest grade of ceremonial clothes for each class. King Sejong had repeated discussions to build a nation based on Confucianism, and arranged each rite and corresponding costume, and the Bapyo Ritual costume was also systematically prepared for each position. The ceremonial clothing organized during the reign of King Sejong was regulated in Yejon and became the basis for continuing to the late Joseon Dynasty.