• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.

• 복식
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• 제38권
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• pp.51-72
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• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• 복식
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• 제60권6호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.

• 복식
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• 제63권2호
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.165-181
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• 2012

Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.87-101
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• 복식
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• 제51권1호
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• pp.5-20
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• 2001

The purpose of this study suggest the fashion of communication for 21th century fashion. Especially, Memphis fashion have the possibility of communicating through objects. The results of this study are as follows : First, Memphis idea is to make design into a sophisticated, conscious instrument of communication. As the Memphis fashion points out : design is an extraordinary tool for communicating because its intrinsic characteristic is the fact that it is used and distributed anyway, even without communicating anything. The Memphis fashion is trying to connect design and industry to the broader culture within which fashion moves. Second, Using different materials provides not only new structural Possibilities. but - above all - new semantic and metaphoric possibilities, order modes of communication, another language, and even a change of direction, broadening of perspective, appropriation and digestion of new values and the concomitant rejection of traditional structures that renewal always Involves. The memphis fashion works on the fabric of contemporaneity (lurex yarn, latex, chrome metal and steel) and contemporaneity means computers, electronics, a new awareness of the body. mass exercise and tourism. Third, color in Memphis has never been an ideological vehicle. As with decoration it is born tilth the design, forming an integral part of the structure. It alters the objects molecules. It works as a mass, as an intrinsic feature of a certain form and volume. The Memphis fashion was realized the introduction of ultramodern science into such experimental and creative implementation as optical motive, brilliancy of colour of electronic medium in audition to metallic fabric and high technical synthetic fiber. A color tilth pop culture connotations that weaver between technological allusions and Mcdonald's.

• 복식
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• 제27권
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• pp.189-205
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• 1996

This Study aims to show that hats are a form of plastic arts the ideal means which provides characteristics aura for the appearance of a per-son and expresses his personality. And analyizing the characteristics and function of the hat designs this study examines the formative aes-thetic of hats and tries to show the possibility of developing the modern hat design. For the purpose this study needs to consider these points: First on the basis of the study of the culture of clothes from the ancient to the modern the origin of hats and the process of changes in hats are examined. Secondly after analyizing of the formative aestheic of hats focussed on the form and tex-ture this study tries to explore. Thirdly the symbolic meaning of hats is stud-ied and then how it was applied to the modern hat design is considered. On the basis of these considerations the conclusions of this study are as follows: First we can see that all the basic shapes of hats were formed very early in the history and hats' shapes were transformed rather by the changer of the size decoration and proportion of hats than by that of hat's form itself. Secondly analyizing various works of hat designers by focussing on the aspects of the for-mative aesthetic this study can find that the formative aesthetic of hat design is very import-ant in changing silhouette of clothes and it has may possibilities of development to meet the modern sense. And lastly this study suggests that in apply-ing hats which had been symbolically used to the modern sense we should pay attention not to simply imitate them but to recreate the aes-thetic characteristics of hat designs so that we can develop the style of hats including both practical function and aesthetic element.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.80-92
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• 2010

This research aims at developing the dress form for the aged women based on their body shapes using the three-dimensional body scan data with the body shape categorization(according to the previous research). To accomplish this goal, the sample group of representative body shape of the 50% of median was selected by using the high frequency proportion range of each type of body shape of the aged women, and the sample group of representative body shape of each type was averaged in a three-dimensional way by using the morphing method of a three-dimension reverse-engineered software. RP in the form of torso was produced based on the shape data of the final model and the data was formed into an actual object, by which an aged women's dress form model was drawn out. The differences of the girth of the bust, hip and waist between the developed dress form model and the existing dress form model were examined. The result showed that the developed dress form had a bigger size of waist girth than that of bust and hip girth, compared to the existing dress form, which shows that it reflects the aged women's tendency of abdomen obesity, so it's expected to be more proper for the human bodies of the targeted age group than the existing dress form. These research results may help design the clothing suitable for the body shape of the aged women so that their demand for the clothing of good fit will be satisfied in the future.