• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.107-118
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to be data and to help understanding of pattern of Korean, Chinese and Japanese traditional dress. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis of case studies about actual works. The summary of this study's results is like followings. First, standard of Pattern are nature, mam-made in motif object, Naturalistic, Geometric, Stylized, Abstract in motif express, Order, Disorder in pattern express. Second, a point of sameness of motif object in traditional dress of three nations were that nature and letter abstractive of mam-made is a lot. but motif of Japan was used in daily life motif of mam-made which was not in Korea and China Third, commonly, motif expression of three nations were developed Naturalistic, Stylized. but in Naturalistic, Korea was simple, plane, China was three-dimensional, Japan was expressed super realism. Fourth, as formative aesthetic of Pattern, Korea is natural, plane, simple and symbolic, China is gorgeous, three-dimensional, immaculacy, filling and symbolic, Japan is delicate, complicated, decoration and symbolic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.791-805
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to analyze the jeans advertising campaigns of the 1990's in South Korean magazine advertisements and their relation to the beauty trends of the 1990's in South Korea. There are three significant and varying periods in the 1990's. Each period will be dissected into four categories. The four categories are 1. Catchphrases 2. Pose selection of the models 3. Selection of models 4. Overall images and themes of the ads. The results are as follows : 1. 1990∼1993 ; Youth & Freedom From 1990 to 1993, jean ads emphasized the catchphrsase and the dynamic pose more and used the Korean model. The ads displayed youthful energy and the freedom of the younger generation. 2. 1994∼1997 ; Sex Appeal From 1994 to 1997, the second transition in jeans advertisements focus shifted from the youthful images of the early 90's to more sexually oriented ads. In terms of model selections and pose, Caucasian models instead of Korean models, and static pose were used more. The ads emphasized the image more than the catchphrase. 3. 1998∼1999 ; Diversity of Individuality & Naturalism During 1998 to the present day, the jeans ads no longer focused on groups but the diversity of individuality. The other focus of ads was the naturalism and the harmony with the nature. Both the static and dynamic pose, Korean model, and the image ads were used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.3
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• pp.111-127
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• 2001

This study aims to apply the formative aesthetic of human body to the form of clothing. For this purpose I try to find the various methods of analysis used in the work of sculpture. The method of inference and the checklists of design are used to relate the sculpture with the clothing design specifically. This methodology intends to regard human body as an artistic form and use the image of sculpture to the maximum. Especially I try to derive the motives of design and recreate them in clothing design emphasizing silhouette. On this methodology, following results were developed. First, the observations on the formative characteristic of human body show that the transformed form of human body expresses more perfect image of human body than the original form. The power of simplicity heightens the total beauty of the work. Second, the image of human body expressed in simplicity heightens the total beauty of the work. Second, the image of human body expressed in simplicity and exaggeration can be variously recreated in a silhouette with the formative and cubic effect, simplicity, and activity. Third, the elegant and static image found in the analysis and synthesis of human body can be used as a motive of clothing design and the changed details lead to the transformation of silhouette. Fourth, in developing designs by the item of checklists, one motive can be variously recreated according to the methods of designs.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2009

This study researches previous aesthetic categories and organizes new one which is applied to fashion design. With the frame of the new aesthetic category, a survey about aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment are conducted. Also, this study discusses about the variety of the aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment which are arisen from peculiarity of fashion and the necessity of the systemized criticizing theory. Through the survey of aesthetic consciousness about fashion designer's clothes, there are possibilities of varieties in visions and critics about fashion works. But it is necessary to read in right way about kunstwollen and symbolic meaning of designer. In order to read aesthetic consciousness inside of a fashion designer's works properly, the interpretation method which follows in systematized phases such as iconology and semiology is necessary. Contemplation for the 'clothes' which is a part of an art Is not just simply see the object and judge subjectively but examine the factors which have influenced to the formation, kunstwollen, and symbolic meaning. Also, the process and the attitude which enjoy the aesthetic value have to be analyzed and criticized which based on systemized interpretation frame. The 'Clothes' is one artistic object which expresses kunstwollen of fashion designer and he or she puts in a sentiment and an ideology into the clothes and which reflects the present society and effects to the descendant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.1 s.110
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• pp.66-82
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• 2007

This study has analyzed the main works of Hayao Miyazaki, a great master of Japanese animation, and inquired into the internal and external feature of characters depicted in his works. The creation of animation character starts from non-being in the planning step and becomes an important medium which will contain the story and the subject of drama. Therefore it's possible to analogize what he intends to represent through the identity, role and external feature of characters appeared in Hayao Miyazaki's animation. As a result of analyzing these external features, the message pursued by Hayao Miyazaki shows diversified girl character unlike the existing one of Japanimation, the girl characters in his works are sometimes sexless, sometimes androgynous, but they take the role to show the intention of director and to settle matters through new femininity free from any frame. In addition, the story of drama and other components show that the Japanese-typed is being sublimated worldwide with fantasy world through oriental appearance of girl character and various color symbols.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2005

Jazz derived from the blacks' work songs and made the frame of Jazz reaching blues and finally arrived at the recent time propagating itself as not only the blacks' music but all human being's music. This study has a purpose to suggest the Jazz image to the fashion design by examining the historical trace of Jazz which is one of popular music received by hearing sense. As for the result of the Jazz's effects by age, rhythmical beauty stressing dresses were in fashion by dance enjoying women in 1920's and dresses giving a mature atmosphere set the fashion in 1930's. in the beginning of 1990's, newly emerging Jazz was reflected to the popular culture along with the historical mode's fashion in the general society. The design's decided with two themes of Jazz Classic and Neo Fusion to modernly and naturally express the pursuit of strong color contrast which associated fast rhythm and lax image such as the counter melody of smooth Jazz. In that result, Jazz image with auditory feelings could suggest the various design motive and new idea to fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.957-969
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• 2011

This study intended to analyze the grunge look as a mode of expression and as a characteristic of the fashion of the 21st century, arguing that the look expressed not only an outward appearance or sub-culture but also a change in our attitude and spirit about contemporary fashion. In the study, I carried out an empirical analysis focused on the collection from 2001S/S to 2010F/W and a literature review. In my results, I classified the grunge look into the following categories: 1. mix and match layering; 2. patchwork, collages, and assemblage using all objects as well as clothing materials; and 3. distressing techniques, such as bleaching and dyeing, unweaving, and tears and holes. I also classified the characteristics of grunge into the following categories: 1. conspicuous destitution, which is intentionally expressed by skillful techniques and craftsmanship, indicating that modern people want to attract attention and be distinguished from others, which reflects an attitude of superiority through ironic fashion choices; 2. high lighting the dissolution of decoration, where destruction, poverty and recombination shown in the grunge look emerged as an artificial and intentional ugly aesthetic in contrast to the existing elegant and sophisticated image; and 3. satire and playfulness, as grunge expresses alienation and conflict in modern society through satire and sarcasm, not attacking or avoiding, but through playful and sarcastic engagement so as to decrease poverty and give temporary freedom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.3
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• pp.131-148
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• 2008

Each stylistic period through history has its own unique look. The characteristic look of each period is completed and visualized with its prevailing ideologies, aesthetic consciousness and morality by means of 'form'. A period expresses its characteristics in accordance with form according to the widespread preferences of the time. Among the various cultural factors that form the look of the time, those that the period holds as ideal aesthetic values create the concept of 'ideal beauty' for that period. This study begins by establishing the conceptual definition of 'ideal beauty' and develops the premise that dress reflected ideal beauty. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects are dresses represented in paintings, the actual garments from the Renaissance to Baroque periods and written references about art, art history, and history of costume. The results, based upon a theoretical study of the zeitgeist and aesthetic values of the 16th and 17th centuries, are as follows: first, ideal beauty influences the substance and form that constitute dress style. It is a byproduct of the spirit of time, the zeitgeist. The concept of ideal beauty is born within the lifestyle pursued by the ruling class and focuses on the body as an epitome of beauty, moral values, custom, lifestyle and taste as it becomes visualized via form. Second, the aspect of dress representing the ideal beauty of particular time varied according to the times. In both periods, power and dignity were used to achieve the ideal aesthetic values. In the Renaissance, power was expressed by the horizontal extension of dress (i.e. wide farthingales and sleeves) and in the Baroque period, by vertical extension (i.e. long and tall wigs, fontanges and trains). It can be said that fashion in both periods achieved an ideal, such as power and dignity, via the same means, by extending dress sizes, but the ways in which those ideals were portrayed in each period's dress yielded very contrary styles. It is understood through this study that ideal beauty influenced the dress style of the Renaissance and Baroque periods and played a decisive role in determining its forms and symbolic meanings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.151-164
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• 2004

This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.