• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.1
• /
• pp.147-160
• /
• 2013

Korean fashion designs became important items in Korea in the middle of the 1980s, and it has advanced into the world market in the early part of the 1990s. To achieve success in global fashion world, it is necessary to analyze Korean fashion design thoroughly and prepare strategies to develop designs with mainstream acceptance in the global fashion world. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and Korean beauties of Korean fashion designs. Fashion photos of Korean fashion designs from 2006 S/S to 2012 F/W were analyzed. 357 designs from 608 designs of 4 representative Korean designers were examined and design characteristics, expression styles were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. H Line, slim, fitted silhouette and loose look were applied. 2. 5 major traditional colors, red, blue, yellow, white and black colors were used. Brown color, neutral color, golden color and beige color of the textile material's original color were used. Traditional textile materials like ramie fabric, satin and cotton, wool and metallic fabric were used. 3. Patterns of flower, traditional pattern and Korean letters were applied. Embroidery, patchwork and mother-of-pearl were decorated. 4. The three types of beauty were natural beauty, moderate beauty and decorative beauty. The types that were analyzed were realistic expression type, moderate expression type, image expression type and mixed expression type. To be accepted in global fashion world, Korean traditional design elements should be modified, broken down and reorganized so that Korean fashion design can be recreated.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.2
• /
• pp.14-28
• /
• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.3
• /
• pp.137-154
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women's status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1910's, ideal beauty has changed to H-style. In other words, the outer garment has confined the lower part of the body with plain H-type Hobble silhouette to express plump bust, somewhat slim waist, and small hips, As the underwears, cylindrical corsets which fasten from under the bust down to lap, brassiere which are helpful for plump bust, and artificial busts were worn. In 1920's, outer garment were Straight box silhouette style which were cut as tubular without dart, and the underwears were corselets which have been tubular from the bust to hip and the tubular chemi-knickers. The former corsets which had been hard-boned and been fastened with strings have been replaced by the hook closure due to the development of elastic joining method. In 1930's, women pursued perfect body showing the line of bust, waist, and hip. In order to express elegant beauty of female of Slim and long silhouette, Doter and underwear have been cut with bias and gore, and soft and flexible materials were flowed along the body. World war II in 1940's has made the women as social. Ideal beauty has changed to Short straight box silhouette which no more shows body line. Outer and underwears were simple and Practical style. In 1950's, ideal beauty was well-matured, elegant Women which were represented by round shoulder, conical breast, tiny waist and round hip. Outer garment showed Hourglass silhouette representing the body-tight suits with round shoulder pad and the wide flare skirts. As the underwears, conical brassiere by top circular stitch were preferred for plump and bulged bust and tight corsets for tiny waist and magnificent petticoats were worn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.8
• /
• pp.65-80
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine and fully understand the transformation of female's ideal beauty through time based on word analysis. Word selection was made from the very exemplary Women's magazines : Yuhwon, Jubu-Saengwhal, and Yuhsung-Dongah. Further, in order to research the understanding of female's ideal beauty, a random research was done on 445 women, ranging from the ages 20's through 60's. From the result, a frequency analysis was performed to further analyze the meaning of ideal beauty to each sector of the age groups for different time periods : the 1980's and the 1990's. To the 20's, beauty awareness was defined by the word ‘intelligence’, however, the 1980's endorsed confidence with composure and calmness where as the 1990's preferred beauty to be defined by ‘refinement and goal oriented’. The 30's selected ‘individuality’ marked with confidence in character, but there was a shift from ‘mature intelligence’ in the 1980's to ‘professionalism’ in the 1990's. The 40'E chose mediocrity and commonness, however, likewise, a sense of ‘earnestness’ for life and family was looked upon as beautiful. For the 50's, comfort with a reserved tenure was frequently noted and for the 60's, women chose ‘health and independence’ as describing ideal beauty. The results from the research are justifiable because the articles are in a neutral perspective and are from the representative women's magazines. This research proved that the younger the age group, the more exterior beauty was considered, as opposed to the older generation who found inner beauty to be of most importance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.7
• /
• pp.139-154
• /
• 2002

This study selects mannequins. fashion models. and fashion photographs as communication media to express the beauty of an ideal body. Each medium is discussed by the denotative and connotative aspects through the semiology. First, the mannequins are the most concrete medium which can form women's ideal body types and reproduce images in which the idealistic human body are coded in various figures. It embodies such various figures of the modem society by being replaced with the symbolic representation of our intrinsic·extrinsic forms. From a denotative view, the mannequins can be explained by ideal body types and expressive tools. The mannequin has implied connotative meanings of the similarity and dissimilarity between the actual body and itself. Second, fashion models have played a role in transmitting fashion images and presenting the ideal body. As fashion has adopted the body as its object fashion models have been used to express an ideal body. The development of the mass media in the 20th century has defined the standard of the beauty, Both the relationship between fashion designers and fashion models. and the standardization of beauty and fashion models are reviewed from a denotative view. Fashion models imply connotative meanings of the figurative and the controlled property. Third, fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. The photographs could be adopted as proper means to express fashion. having realistic and practical expressional functions, and it can be said that the realistic and practical expressional function of photographs has served as a suitable means for express fashion, and fashion photographs are discussed. The fashion photograph has the reproducible and the symbolic property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.10
• /
• pp.1-15
• /
• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
• /
• 2003.05a
• /
• pp.42-42
• /
• 2003

세계적으로 인터넷 이용 인구는 2002년 2월 현재 5억 4천 4백만여명에 이르고 있으며, 우리나라의 인터넷 이용 인구는 2001년 12월말 자료에 의하면 2천4백3십8만여명에 달하는 것으로 보고되고 있다(한국 인터넷정보센터통계보고서, 2002). 또한, 네오위즈는 작년 한 해 아바타 매출 100억원을 돌파, 다모임은 지난해 12월 한달간의 아바타 매출이 3억 6000만원에 달하였으며, 다움(Daum)의 경우 서비스 개시 15일 만에 일일 발생 매출이 1천만원 돌파, 현재 1일 3천500만원의 수익을 올리는 등, 아바타 선두 업체 뿐 아니라 후발 주자들도 큰 수익 창출하고 있다(Economy21- 2002.04.25). 올 한해 아바타 시장규모는 800억원-1000억원으로 예상되고 있으며, 이러한 시장 증대에 따라 기존 캐릭터 업체들이 구축계약 위주에서 서비스 제휴사업으로 아바타모델 제안 및 시장영업이 증대되고 있다. 즉, 아바타 시장은 구축되어 있는 것이 아니라 계속적으로 확대되어 가고 있음. 또한 아바타산업은 인터넷 인프라의 확산과 더불어 아바타의 호응 또한 급격히 상승하고 있으며, 단순히 사이버 세계에서의 분신으로서의 역할에서 벗어나 다양한 부가가치를 구현하는 아바타의 등장으로 아바타의 확산은 계속적인 추세이다. 또한 아바타는 게임, 채팅, 일정관리등 인터넷 전 분야에 걸쳐 Cyber Agent활용도가 확산되고 있으며, 아바타 시장은 초기 일본형 애니메이션 아바타에서 벗어나 아바타와 패션, 아바타와 문화의 접목에 대한 관심이 상승되고 있으며 이로 인한 신규시장이 창출되고 있다 이러한 디지털 시대로의 급격한 발전은 복식문화를 디지털 문화컨텐츠 사업화로의 그 발전방향을 제시하고 있다.2cm 적용하고, 진동두께 계산식은 (B/8-1.5)+2cm를 적용함으로써 진동깊이와 진동두께의 편차가 작아짐으로 인해 소매부위와 진동부위의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 3) 가슴둘레의 증가에 따라 등길이에 앞길이 치수를 증가시키는 계산식을 설정하여 앞가슴둘레의 맞음새를 향상시켰다. 4) Plus-size여성의 경우 허리부분의 신체적합성을 높이기 위하여 사이드 판넬(side panel)의 재킷원형으로 하였다. 앞 허리와 배 부분의 지방 침착이 크므로 앞 허리둘레 다아트 폭과 앞판 사이드 판넬(side panel) 솔기 다아트 폭을 작게 설정하고, 뒤판 사이드 판넬 솔기 폭을 크게 설정하였다. 5) 어깨끝점 사이길이는 다른 부위의 체지방 침착과 같이 비례적으로 증가하지 않으므로 표준체형에 비해 좁게 설정하였다. 보여주어 우리나라의 선호 질감과는 차이가 있었다. 실제 판매율을 살펴본 결과 주관적 질감 이미지 평가의 선호도와의 비교에서 약간의 차이가 있었는데, 이는 질감 외에 가격이 구매에 영향을 미쳤기 때문으로 분석되었다., 2002; Huun et al, 2001).의 특징이라 할 수 있겠다. 대한 자부심과 국제 사회에서 차별화 할 수 있는 한국 복식 디자인에 독창성과 창조성을 표현하는 중요한 영역임을 인식할 수 있었다.와 보호인자를 재확인할 필요가 있다고 보며 본 연구의 결과는 지역민의 대장직장암 예방을 위한 영양교육 자료로서 활용될 수 있다고 본다. 관여도에 영향을 미치고 있음을 알 수 있었다. 유지되어 쾌적역이 향상된 것으로 사려된다.하였으며, 효율적인 색채 정보로서 활용될 수 있는 패션 색채 팔레트를 제시하였다는데 의의가 있다.′, aesthetic of ′unity in multiplicity′, a

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.485-499
• /
• 2012

This study suggests designs for fashion-cultural products that can communicate the uniqueness of Korean traditional culture. To this end, motives and printing patterns were created based on the formative beauty of traditional sewing crafts. A literature review was completed to identify characteristics of Korean traditional sewing, and the motives were developed through Adobe Illustrator CS4 and Adobe Photoshop CS4. Those motives were applied to handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches, and handbags. The sewing crafts used in this study included thimbles, bobbins, and chumoni (a Korean traditional pouch). The motives were produced in a manner that best exemplified the unique formative beauty of the sewing crafts while also presenting modern images of the crafts. The motives from thimbles reflected the lateral side of their originals, while the motives from bobbins adopted fan- or rectangular-shaped bobbins. The motives from chumoni were based on Duruchumoni and Guichumoni. A total of 12 motives were developed, and a total of 36 textile designs were suggested based on those motives. A total of 42 designs for fashion-cultural products, including handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches and handbags, were developed. Among them, motives applied to handkerchiefs were expanded to apply to scarfs, as well.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.549-559
• /
• 2012

The purpose of this study was to analyze the comfort of sports bras by style and bra cup size. The comfort of wear was measured with compression level. The displacement of breast points (BP) after wearing a sports bra was measured. Study subjects evaluated the comfort level of the compression type and encapsulation type sports bras after walking and running. The results showed that all types of experimental sports bras provided more coverage than everyday bras. The compression type bra placed more pressure on the breast, chest, and under-bust than the encapsulation type bra. The BP distance decreased for all types. The C cup subjects' breasts were raised after wearing the sports bras. The B cup subjects had less comfort with the compression style bra than C cup subjects. The racer back style bra with high neckline and small band girth placed more pressure than others. They were difficult to don and doff and the least comfortable. These results imply that the racer back compression style sports bra was uncomfortable for women with large breast, while the encapsulation style bra with the compressing panel at upper chest was the most comfortable. The bras that shortened BP distance placed more pressure on the breast. But the bra that raised and shorted the distance of BP provided better comfort for large-breasted subjects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.1177-1192
• /
• 2011

As a free creature that can fly in the sky, the bird has been an object of admiration and mystery and a mediator between human beings and the heavens. This study aims to clarify the aesthetic value of birds through study of the various expressions of the bird image on clothing and by the formative will of designers. Based on the general examination of the bird image through the study of documents, this study is composed of a case analysis, which reveals on modern fashion designs. Additionally, the forms of expression of the bird image are organized according to the stereoscopic expression of shaping, the relief expression of handicraft decoration, the flat expression of surface design, and the characteristic expression of wings and feathers. The aesthetic characteristics revealed by the expression patterns are metaphorical symbolism, surrealistic humor, lyrical naturalness, and fantastical femininity. Since antiquity, the bird image continuously recreated by artists has offered aesthetic value in terms of formativeness in the external form and symbolism in the internal form. This study would help to understand the diversity of creation in contemporary fashion design.