• 박물관보존과학
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• 제15권
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• pp.38-55
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• 2014

본 유물은 국립부여박물관이 소장하고 있는 진주 유씨 유경종 ^{柳慶宗, 1565-1623}의 묘에서 출토된 복식 3점이다. 이미 1차 보존처리가 완료되었으나 일부분에 대한 재처리가 필요하였고 의복의 형태 복원 및 유물의 안전한 보관을 위해 재보존처리를 진행하였다. 재보존처리가 완료된 복식 3점은 형태 복원을 통해 의복의 특징에 따라 단령 ^團領, 직령^直領, 창의^氅衣로 명칭을 정정하였다. 직물의 무늬에서는 지금까지 발표된 운문과는 다른 특징을 보이는 새로운 패턴이 확인되었으며, 단령에 부착된 흉배 ^胸背 는 무늬 부분이 아닌 바탕 부분이 연금사 ^撚金絲로 직성 ^織成 된 것으로 조사되었다. 본 유물은 보존처리를 통해 원형을 회복하고 의복의 형태에 맞는 명칭을 부여하였다. 이를 통해 16세기 후기에서 17세기 전기 직물의 무늬 및 의복의 형태의 유행과 특징을 확인할 수 있는 중요한 자료가 될 것으로 기대된다.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.20-34
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• 2010

This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.97-111
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• 2004

To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning. Accordingly, it could be a clue to survey the changing process of Chinese names into Korean by analysing the vocabulary in the books published in Choseon dynasty. In this study, the first step is to survey the children's Chinese vocabulary learning material, Hunmongahoe(1527), Sinzeungliuhap(1576) and Ahackpyun(1804). These books were widely used from 16 to 19 centuries. It has been surveyed how the meaning of clothes names has changed and the special features of changed names. The names appeared in these Chinese vocabulary learning books included headgear, footwear, dress, part names of dress, ornaments, color and names of textile. The followings are observed by studying the names appeared in more than two books above： 1. The same Chinese character were translated differently. 2. Recently the meaning of Chinese character has been reduced or changed into new Chinese character. 3. Some of them retained the same meaning but used different character. It has been observed that some clothing names retained the original meaning but others changed the meaning, or translated into different names. It shows that the appropriate meaning of names should be properly selected when we study the history of clothing.

• 복식
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• 제51권2호
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• pp.65-78
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• 2001

The costume history of Koryo Dynasty is well-known as having many undiscovered area. This is because there are only few records in that times. Futhermore the previous studies only quote the records such like "Koryosa" and "Koryodokyung", and their investigations are restricted. This paper quotes all kinds of literature which can show the costume of Koryo Dynasty. First it collects all the terms of the costume in the literature and classified them by those properties. Also, this study shows the characteristics of the costume in the Koryo Dynasty by reanalying the terms. This study is restricted on the costume of everyday wear.

• 복식
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• 제59권4호
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• pp.155-172
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• 2009

Naturalized words of clothing terms in Joseon Dynasty could be found on the foreign language study books such as Chinese language study books; "譯語類解Yeokeoyuhae", "譯語類解補編Yeokeoyuhae-supplementary book], and "華語類抄Hwaeoyucho", Manchu language study book; "同文類解Dongmunyuhae", Mongolian language study books; 蒙語類解Mongeoyuhae", and "蒙語類解補編Mongeoyuhae-supplementary book", Japanese language study books; "倭語類解Oaeeoyuhae", and "和語類解Hwaeoyuhae", and the study books of over two kinds of foreign language; "方言類解Bangeonyuseok", and "漢淸文鑑Hanchungmungam". This study focused on the name that was related with headgear, socks and clothing from those foreign language study books. The name which was originated in Chinese language is Cwan, Yanggwan, Dugeon, Samo, Bokdu, Jungja, Okjam, Cwanja, Hwa, Johwa, Unhye, Jobok, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Changyi, Dunja, Hosu, Dansam, Dopa, Bigye, Peak, Yodae, and Pumdae. The name which was originated in Manchu language is Camto, Nyeolku, Dalogi, kulimae, and Mahulae. The name which was originated in Mongolian language is Tyeolic, and Dugeule. There are two kinds of names that have been used continuously during the whole Joseon Dynasty. The first ones borrowed just name, for example, Cwan, Dugeon, Mahulae, Okjam, Hwa, Dansam, Changyi, kulimae, and Yodae. The second ones loaned the name and object, for example, Yanggwan, Samo, Bokdu, Camto, Jungja, Cwanja, Jobok, Dalogi, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Dopa, Tyeolic, Peak, and Pumdae. It was observed that among Korean names that have been used from the Joseon Dynasty, Unhye, Dugeule, and Hosu were used as broader meaning in the Joseon Dynasty. It was names that had not used during the whole Joseon Dynasty were Johwa, Nyeolku, and Bigye.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2004년도 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집*Proceedings of the Korea Fashion
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• pp.77-80
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• 2004

요선오자란 의(衣)와 상(裳)으로 구성되어 있고 허리에 여러 줄의 요선(腰線)이 장식되어 있는 독특한 형태의 포(袍를)를 지칭한다. 이러한 특징적인 형태를 지닌 요선오자는 원대(元代) 문헌부터 그 명칭이 등장하고 각종 회화자료에서도 몽골인들이 착용한 모습을 볼 수 있으며 복식유물도 이 시기부터 출토되어 중세 몽골인에 의해 착용되기 시작한 것으로 알려져 있다.(중략)

• 복식문화연구
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.6-10
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to identify and to trace origins of the names of boshon(보션) and Chung(쳥) used in Chosun period. Comparative linguistic analytical approaches were employed for this research. Conclusions and summary of finds and results of this study can be summarized as follows: It was found that the name, boshon had its origin in Aramaic, while the name, chung had its origin in Chinese. The word, boshon (보션) is a transliteration of Aramaic pattashehon, leggins. The name, boshon is a borrowed word from Aramaic. The word, bai shu(背戍) of Koryo period and the word, boshon(보션) of Chosun period were originated in one word, ai shu was taken from a singular form, while boshon was taken from a plural form. Because these two words in Koran have different phonetic values, ′they ar treated as tow different words. The name, chung(쳥) is a transliteration of Chinese cheuan, ch′"uan, Korean chung is a corrupted form of cheunan or ch′"uan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.57-76
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• 1997

The maun purpose of this study os review and analyze the differences, among clothing terms, between the biblical definitions of the underwear terms and those used by the public in day-to-day life. According, the biblical definitions of the underwear terms which are widely used by the various literature are summarized. Also, the degree of recognition of the underwear terms by the public is studied by analyzing the results of the questionnaires which are distributed to 217 female college students, as the objects of data, who reside in Seoul metropolitan areas. As a result of this study, we find the following conclusions : First, there are considerable differences in definitions of the underwear terms between those used by the various literature and those used by the public. The personal definitions of the underwear terms, or alternatively those used by the public, are very reduced and limited and even misunderstood in some cases. Second, the definitions of the underwear terms which are actually used by the public are recognized mostly by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearing times, the wearers, the forms and the materials and, among others, the wearing goals are the most dominating factor for the recognition of the underwear terms. Finally, the comparison among the similar underwears reveals that underwears are recognized by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearers, the forms and the materials. But, the objects of data recognize the underwear terms in very limited and simple fashion instead of having definite recognition of the differences among similar items.

• 복식
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.24-34
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the $15^{th}$ century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about $15^{th}$ century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the $15^{th}$ century fabric.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제20권
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• pp.61-76
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• 2018

국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 유물의 전시와 안전한 보호를 위한 보존처리를 진행하기에 앞서 갑옷의 특징과 종류를 파악하여 안전하고 정확한 보존처리의 기초자료를 위해 이론적 연구를 실시하였다. 연구 결과 첫째, 갑옷의 명칭은 색, 재료, 신분, 갑옷의 부위까지 함께 나열하여 세부적인 특징의 차이에 따라 기록하였다. 명칭을 표기하는 순서는 대부분 색상과 직물, 다음으로 철이나 가죽 등의 재료가 나열되며, 앞부분은 의(衣), 뒷부분은 갑찰의 재료, 또는 신분만으로 명칭을 기록하였다. 둘째, 갑옷에 사용된 재료는 직물, 가죽, 금속이며, 철갑(鐵甲), 피갑(皮甲), 지갑(紙甲), 엄심갑(淹心甲), 단갑(緞甲)등으로 분류할 수 있다. 셋째, 갑옷의 구조와 착장방법에 따라 크게 4가지의 유형으로 나뉘며 국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 4점은 그 중 임진왜란 이후부터 19세기 말, 20세기 초까지 입혀진 보편적 양식인 포형(袍型) 갑옷 양식에 포함되며 보군(步軍)이 착용하였던 갑옷임을 확인할 수 있다.